Sacker90

When I was driving down the road a couple of days ago my car just died when I came to a complete stop. Now my battery is almost dead and I charged it up and now my car barely starts and runs really rich when it starts and wont stay alive when I let off the gas. Its not the alternator because I got 11.8 volts when the ignition is on and then 13.3 volts when the car is running. Any ideas? Thanks

gotorx7

Both those voltages are low IMO...

Have you tried another battery?

You may have a collapsed cell...

Sacker90

Yes I hooked up my old battery and still the same results....

ampzilla74

is it smoking bad when you start it and does it start sluggish???

cmartinp28

check the map sensor... happened to me this past week

Sacker90

yeah, its start like its the map sensor, but everythings plugged up

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Try another alternator for the hell of it. IT's possible it isn't working 100% when it gets hot. Same for the battery...a bad cell will cause a car to act a fool with no real pattern.

Last year when my fd was at the bodyshop, I believe they left the door ajar and drained the battery...it seemed to crank slower afterwards than it had when I took it in. Despite showing a good charge, the problem continuted to get worse, and finally I started having all sorts of odd hesitations, bucking at freeway speed, lights blinking with no explanation, etc. I went on and changed the battery and havent had a problem in the time since...

Also use a dremel to clean off your battery terminals and posts and be sure theyre securely fastened. This sounds simple but you wouldnt believe the times I've seen a bit of corrosion that was barely even visible cause major problems to a car. I burned myself on a battery terminal 2 weeks ago because corrosion was causing a poor connection and heated it up within 1 minute of installation. Cleaned off both surfaces with a dremel and it was fine.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Also, try new plugs....if you foul one, the car will act up at low rpms.

Sacker90

Yeah I did the battery relocation like 2 weeks ago, and I grounded it to the seat belt bolt and it was doing fine, when it died I realized that it wasnt a very good connection, so I took it off and put it back on again and still the same thing. It still acts like its flooded when it starts up..could this be it dieing and the fuel pump not shutting off intul after the car dies? I tried a different battery also, and still same thing. Could the ground not being 100% cause this kind of problem? I also went to advanced to get a alternator and the only one they had was a reman that costs 200+. Could i take the one off the fc and try it out? Would a alternator make a noise when its going/ its out?

joeyz87

you ground battery to seat belt bolt? I would try another ground spot. Use 4 or 2 awg wire and scrape all paint off. VOltage should be 13.8+ with the car running I think.

Sacker90

Theres a really loud sound when i give it throttle and pours smoke and air it just flowing out of the bov....I'm guessing blown turbos...

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Turbos have nothing to do with the car starting and running. You could remove the turbos from the side of the engine altogether and it should still start, idle, rev, and pull out normally.

Sacker90

no it starts fine...my battery was just dead..rough start up and pours smoke and then makes a really loud noise like the uim is off. I was catchin boost when i revved in neutral and now i catch no boost and revs slowly

Sacker90

But if air is being sucked in through the turbos and the turbos arent working right wouldnt that affect air coming in? Also air is blowing out through the bov on the y-pipe..

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Look man, think of it this way. You have a window fan in your bedroom window, and the window is up. Even though the fan might not be turning under it's own power, wind can still blow through the fan into your room, can't it?

How is a turbo being in the air intake pathway restricting air from entering? That's like saying your air filter won't let the engine run because it wont let air in.

paw140

Maybe your bov is messed up (it blows out air at idle??) and now you have a massive vacuum leak. That would cause many problems.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

A vacuum leak before the throttlebody makes no difference to a map-based EFI system such as the FD. ON an AFM based system like the FC this will wreak havoc, though.

signofinfinity

my two pence.... here in malta i saw some 6 cars with that symptom. Rich wont start...lazy and like flooded...

I changed the ECU temp sensor...the green socket sensor behind the thermo housing...and hey presto... your plugs now may be fouled if you tried running her. voltage from alternator should be 14.6....at all rpm.

Ledfoot

iTrader: (1)

....remove the top hose from the intercooler...start the car....place your hand over the hole to restrict air to the UIM...if the car continues to run...or takes a little while to die..you probably have an intake leak...maybe between the LIM and engine block.

Sacker90

I put my hand over it and it dies and the bolts on the lim to the block are tight

signofinfinity

check your sensor bro....

Sacker90

So you mean that its not a vacuum leak now since my UIM and LIM are tightly bolted down...So what else would cause this? The map sensor is conncect and I am yest to check the ATS or the WTS like someone said above. It smokes real bad on start up and blows alot of smoke out of the oil relief on the oil filler neck.

Ledfoot

iTrader: (1)

...ARG...out of exhaust...white smoke, blue smoke or black smoke...when cold...hot..for how long...did you do compression check...to make sure it's not internal...

Sacker90

Map sensor is hooked up...it is blue smoke like oil and got compression on both rotors

Sacker90

bump