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wont go past 3000 rpm

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Old 05-01-05, 12:53 PM
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wont go past 3000 rpm

I just drop new motor in had some fuel burning problems then i changed the ecu no more smoke or fuel burning problem. Now i finally take it for a test drive then my car wont go over 3000 rpm on first gear. Car runs normaly when i drive slow and steady but when i try to mash down the gas pedal, it hits 3000 rpm then it starts to jump and it doesnt want to go past 3000 rpm. does any of yall out there think it might be that ecu i put in? by the way both ecus i tried are stock and both had different problems.
Old 05-01-05, 06:29 PM
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disconnect the battery and hold the brake down for about 1-2 minutes
reconnect the battery and take it for a drive
Old 05-01-05, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by marix1521
disconnect the battery and hold the brake down for about 1-2 minutes
reconnect the battery and take it for a drive
Holy ****! 1-2 min? If im not mistaken it only takes like 15 seconds to reset the codes...That is what your trying to do, right?
Old 05-01-05, 06:52 PM
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anybody had this problem before? i can use some pointers man
Old 05-01-05, 07:16 PM
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Have you pulled the engine codes yet? The ECU will tell you if it's not happy.

Sounds like you may have a bad connection to one or both of the secondary fuel injectors - they kick in at 3000 RPM. I believe you'll get a code if they're not plugged in.

Dale
Old 05-01-05, 07:20 PM
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Well, he would need to have a "check engine" warning before the ECU would give out any problem codes... and depending on the problem, they may or may not be stored codes.
Old 05-01-05, 07:28 PM
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the check engine light is on. what would cause a bad connection to the fuel injectors?
Old 05-01-05, 07:30 PM
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how do i get a problem code?
Old 05-01-05, 07:33 PM
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1. Could be MAP sensor related.
2. Could be secondary fuel injector related.
3. Could be TPS related
4. No offense, but if you don't know how to do basics like pull codes, etc, why are you dropping in your own motor?
Old 05-01-05, 07:34 PM
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BTW, are all the FDs OBD-I or were the 95 OBD-II?
Old 05-01-05, 07:38 PM
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rx7 was a hand me down barely getting in to cars so im a rookie. bro and dad are mechanics im just a rookie tryin to learn ****.
Old 05-01-05, 09:26 PM
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If you pull the codes and it shows nothing wrong, make sure your intercooler pipes and vaccum lines are connected and check for leaks. I had the same problem, and it was a leak on one of the intercooler pipes. Check everything rynberg said too, all those could possibly be the problem.
Old 05-02-05, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HDP
BTW, are all the FDs OBD-I or were the 95 OBD-II?
All FDs were OBD-I. Mazda stopped importing the FD in 1995 because all model years from 1996 on were required to be OBD-II compliant and Mazda could not afford to implement that on such a poor selling model.
Old 05-02-05, 02:26 AM
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Your car is in limp mode. This is caused by the ECU throwing a code. Disconnecting the battery and holding brake for about 10-15 seconds will clear any codes and should get it out of limp mode. However, since there is a code - run the diagnostic to find out what it is. Even if the check engine light isn't on, there can still be a code.

-Charlie
Old 05-02-05, 02:53 AM
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When you say new do you mean new/rebuilt or 2nd hand and new to your car. If its been rebuilt it may not be the best thing for it for you to "mash down the gas pedal"
Old 05-02-05, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmyp281
anybody had this problem before? i can use some pointers man
I had exactly the same problem before and when i reset my computer..BINGO, it went back normal.

All you have to do is disconect the battery and press on the brakes for 3 times after that wait for 20 seconds and connect the battery back again. It should work as it happen with me.
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