Wiring Harness Tuck DIY: And does anyone need Raychem?
03-24-12 | 02:46 PM
#31
I want to relocate all the relays to the inside and really run the wires out to the front that's needed for lights. I don't have ABS or an airbag.
Subscribed I can't wait to see more progress.
my biggest problem is having the time in order to do it.
Subscribed I can't wait to see more progress.
my biggest problem is having the time in order to do it.
03-24-12 | 04:22 PM
#32
It's coming, still trying to find a decent relay/fuse block. I've bought a couple but not sure if I really want to use them. I'd love to find a fuse block that is bussed on the input, combined with each fuse leading to it's own relay. I'd like to find a box that has 10 fuses and relays combined. I may end up just having a fuse block and a relay box, and install them next to eachother.
Other than that, I've got everything I need.
Other than that, I've got everything I need.
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARC-Auto-Rod-C...ductId=1395270
04-07-12 | 05:13 PM
#35
subscribed, I am in the middle of a single turbo conversion so I am trying to clean up the engine bay as much as possible, but with these relays and fuse blocks there just isnt much room to hide it!
It would be nice to have no wires visible at all, but I will settle with no fuse blocks/relays easily visible.
It would be nice to have no wires visible at all, but I will settle with no fuse blocks/relays easily visible.
04-11-12 | 12:34 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Built Not Bought
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From: Stamford, CT
It's happening this weekend.
Just got goodies like this from prowireusa.com If you are using small amounts of wire (i.e. doing your personal car), you cannot find a better source.
Just got goodies like this from prowireusa.com If you are using small amounts of wire (i.e. doing your personal car), you cannot find a better source.
05-28-12 | 09:53 AM
#41
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Built Not Bought
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From: Stamford, CT
I've got the interior stripped, and the stock harnesses just about completely modified and reinstalled. Now I've just got to add in the alarm and wiring for the ECU.
New panel to hold the relay and fuse boxes in the rear bin (I'll post pics on how to mount it later):
Here you can see the new fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary components
Best wire stripper I've ever owned.
New crimper for weather/metri pack type connectors, here I'm crimping terminals for the wires that go to the relay boxes that will control outputs of the ecu (fuel pumps, coil +, injector +, supercharger, exhaust cutout, etc...)
New panel to hold the relay and fuse boxes in the rear bin (I'll post pics on how to mount it later):
Here you can see the new fuse box and relay boxes for the ECU and auxiliary components
Best wire stripper I've ever owned.
New crimper for weather/metri pack type connectors, here I'm crimping terminals for the wires that go to the relay boxes that will control outputs of the ecu (fuel pumps, coil +, injector +, supercharger, exhaust cutout, etc...)
05-28-12 | 10:10 AM
#42
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Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
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From: Stamford, CT
Part of the reason why I decided to rewire the ECU: (not very tidy)
To tuck everything in the engine bay, I decided to put all relay and fuse boxes into the rear bin. To start, I took out the front body harness (the one that wraps from the driver side foot well, around the front of the car, and into the passenger side foot well).
Identify the plugs you don't need in the engine bay and snip the wires, then snip the same wire at it's other end to delete the wire completely. For example, I'm deleting the fan relays and using my ecu to control the fans, so I snipped every wire at the relay, then I went and snipped the other end of the wires at the relay and fuse boxes and another other plugs they went to. You'll notice I left the big rubber grommets on. I like to use these to help keep everything organized on each side. I snip a wire, pull it through the grommet and then snip the other end. And wires that are just being relocated to the inside of the car, I snip, pull through the grommet, and coil it up until I need to use it.
Label each wire that you are keeping but relocating (all wires going to the relay box got an "R", all wires going to the Fuse box got an "F". There are other wires that go to the large Grey connectors next to the fuse box, I gave these all numbers.
The last few wires left just run from the driver side foot well to the passenger side foot well. I labeled these all with a number as well. After snipping these off, I ended up with a driver side harness and a passenger side harness. There are barely any wires left on the passenger side. and the ones that connect to the driver will now be connected inside the car, instead of wrapping all the way around the front end.
Stripped harness, being labeled and cut:
Everything cut except for the 6 remaining wires that just run from foot well to foot well:
You can see the bulk of the wires end up on the driver side:
Once it's in two pieces, put it back in the car and connect the remaining connectors to the fuse box by the clutch pedal and all of the other connectors down there. Once you know where all the connectors go, tape it all off so that the it all fits nicely and each wire goes where it's needed. Then remove and completely wrap it.
Driver side, wrapped up. Now the wires that run to the rear of the car for the relay and fuse boxes need to be extended and wrapped.
This is the hardest part, now I just need to run the new wires for the ECU and alarm system.
To tuck everything in the engine bay, I decided to put all relay and fuse boxes into the rear bin. To start, I took out the front body harness (the one that wraps from the driver side foot well, around the front of the car, and into the passenger side foot well).
Identify the plugs you don't need in the engine bay and snip the wires, then snip the same wire at it's other end to delete the wire completely. For example, I'm deleting the fan relays and using my ecu to control the fans, so I snipped every wire at the relay, then I went and snipped the other end of the wires at the relay and fuse boxes and another other plugs they went to. You'll notice I left the big rubber grommets on. I like to use these to help keep everything organized on each side. I snip a wire, pull it through the grommet and then snip the other end. And wires that are just being relocated to the inside of the car, I snip, pull through the grommet, and coil it up until I need to use it.
Label each wire that you are keeping but relocating (all wires going to the relay box got an "R", all wires going to the Fuse box got an "F". There are other wires that go to the large Grey connectors next to the fuse box, I gave these all numbers.
The last few wires left just run from the driver side foot well to the passenger side foot well. I labeled these all with a number as well. After snipping these off, I ended up with a driver side harness and a passenger side harness. There are barely any wires left on the passenger side. and the ones that connect to the driver will now be connected inside the car, instead of wrapping all the way around the front end.
Stripped harness, being labeled and cut:
Everything cut except for the 6 remaining wires that just run from foot well to foot well:
You can see the bulk of the wires end up on the driver side:
Once it's in two pieces, put it back in the car and connect the remaining connectors to the fuse box by the clutch pedal and all of the other connectors down there. Once you know where all the connectors go, tape it all off so that the it all fits nicely and each wire goes where it's needed. Then remove and completely wrap it.
Driver side, wrapped up. Now the wires that run to the rear of the car for the relay and fuse boxes need to be extended and wrapped.
This is the hardest part, now I just need to run the new wires for the ECU and alarm system.
06-02-12 | 12:09 AM
#43
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Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
Joined: May 2008
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From: Stamford, CT
Why don't u make ur own thread instead of posting some hackjob's harnesses in my do it urself thread.
This is my first time doing it and it will still be better than those unsealed milspec wannabe harnesses.
This is a DIY thread, not a " buy from this guy that isn't a sponsor" thread.
This is my first time doing it and it will still be better than those unsealed milspec wannabe harnesses.
This is a DIY thread, not a " buy from this guy that isn't a sponsor" thread.
10-06-12 | 01:27 PM
#46
Found this in some searching... Might be helpful so I thought I would share the wealth...
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/sq6wiringloom.html
J.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/sq6wiringloom.html
J.
10-11-12 | 11:09 AM
#48
Thread Starter
Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,334
Likes: 912
From: Stamford, CT
Got it from west marine, it's made by Blue Sea Systems, it's pretty much the nicest bussed box that one can get, even has bussed grounds because its made for Marine systems.
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS ST Blade Fuse Blocks at West Marine
I know I've fallen behind on this, but don't worry, a full write up will be up before winter kicks in so everyone will have some more detail before too long.
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS ST Blade Fuse Blocks at West Marine
I know I've fallen behind on this, but don't worry, a full write up will be up before winter kicks in so everyone will have some more detail before too long.
10-11-12 | 06:23 PM
#50
Got it from west marine, it's made by Blue Sea Systems, it's pretty much the nicest bussed box that one can get, even has bussed grounds because its made for Marine systems.
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS ST Blade Fuse Blocks at West Marine
I know I've fallen behind on this, but don't worry, a full write up will be up before winter kicks in so everyone will have some more detail before too long.
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS ST Blade Fuse Blocks at West Marine
I know I've fallen behind on this, but don't worry, a full write up will be up before winter kicks in so everyone will have some more detail before too long.
