smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

because it was cold and the car needed some things i decided to install a Supra TT pump, new primary injectors and a zeitronix wideband, along with some other stuff to stiffen up the drive train. when i took the car out for a test drive the car never has been so fast. that might sound good but i cant hardly drive it, i only push half way or less on the throuttle and the tires break loose and the bost shoots up to 14.5-16. this is all well under 4500rpm, i dont even get to the second turbo. i have an Blitz SBC and i turned the gain and ratio to 0, even turned it off and still create to much boost. i check for codes and got code #3, the Crank angle sensor G, the weard thing is when i reset the ECU the code is still there even when i havent started the car. i am under the influence that when you reset the ECU the codes are cleared untill next start up. Also my knock sensor had leaked some so i used some of the Right Stuff Gasket maker to replace the missing black Goo. i wouldnt think eather code #3 or the knock sensor would cause this type of problem. most people that regester code #3 cant even get the car to start. and the knock sensor supposably only effects the timing in a small way or sends the car into limp mode if knock readings get to high.

sorry for the long story, im just very confused and hope some one can point me in the right direction.

ryan

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Sounds like when you replaced the primary injectors you screwed up something with your turbo control system. Probably a pair of swapped vacuum hoses.

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

i run a semplified seq setup, i dont think i mixed anything up but ill pull the manifold tomarrow and check everything.

but why do you think that code keeps showing up?

thanks for the reply.

ryan

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

^check the wiring for that part

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

im planning on checking the sensors today along with the wires. last night i took the ecu out and used a volt meter to check the sensors resististance from the ecu and got a reading of 1.06-1.07.

ryan

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

the vac lines are all right and both the sensors and wires checked good. and still getting code #3

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Does the boost stop at 14.5-16 or are you letting off?

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

i let off. it hits 14.5 with such ease and it hit 16psi on accedent when i first took it out.also i reved it up one time to 4700 in second slowly to avoid boost and when the second kicked in, the boost came on hard and so fast i let off to avoid over boost.

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

if i pushed it to the floor or even just past half way or even just got on it aggressively it seems like the boost would just keep climbing really fast and blow the motor. also when i have been driving it i have been just easing in to the throttle.

one of my guesses was that when i filled in the knock sensor with some of the Right Stuff Gasket maker to replace some of the goo that leaked out, is that the right stuff deafened knock readings better because its more softer and caused the timming to advance?

ryan

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

kind of sounds like the hose on your wastegate is off. Might want to check that and the solenoid it goes to.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Yup, check your wastegate linkage and actuator. Sounds like the wg isn't opening.

The knock sensor has nothing to do with your boost problem.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

It has got to be the something w/ the actuator rod or related area to shoot out of control like that. Check the rod and c-clip. G

matty

how cold is it there and what is normal boost?

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

just checked the actuator and it operates fine, also i took apart the boost controller and cleaned and check both solenoids, every thing was fine.

its around 33 degrees farenheit. ive been running 10psi, when it got cold here i turned the controller down to acomidate the cold air.

mods:
down pipe
through pipe
blitz nur spec cat back
apex-i intakes
twin power
asp large intercooler
G-force ECU
blitz dual sbc boost controller/ported wast gate

you think the cold air would effect it that much? when it first got cold i turned the boost down and the dual sbc seemed to be able to controll it fine.

MrNizzles

iTrader: (5)

With a "through" mid-pipe, I would say it could be the wastegate, but you say it's been ported so, it must be something with the hoses/solenoids. Do you have an A/F reading for what you're boosting at?

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

ill have to take the laptop with me next time i take it out but last time i took it out A/F was 9.8 at 14.5psi. but ill have to check to be accurate. also all my turbo controll solenoids are new and i good working order. from driving it and checking them they seem to be fine. a while back i did have to install a bleader valve on the pressure turbo controll solenoid even though it was new, because the amount of pressure in the line was to much for the solenoid to handle and causing the second turbo to stay online and keeping it from trasitioning back to the primary after the car droped below 4500rpm. the valve let a small amount of pressure bleed out to keep the solenoid operating. it worked great all i have to do if i run more boost is just open it a tich to vent the extra pressure.

smoke wagon

iTrader: (4)

FIXED! it was the boost controller solenoids, i guess they were dirty or sticking. nothing a little electical cleaner didnt cure. also my A/F was 10.90 at 6.60psi at 5565rpm.

do you know what kind of A/F mixtures i should be looking to get around 10-12psi?