Winter Projects! 56k Beware
12-10-06, 11:56 AM
#27
I
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Originally Posted by edwin-82/rx7
Section8 -- what is the advantage to the new oil filler neck? Could be another thing to do while everything is apart...
Thanks for the replies guys, I will keep updating the thread as the work progresses...
Thanks for the replies guys, I will keep updating the thread as the work progresses...
You prolly got an answer already but I had a major oil leak one day at the track that was caused by the oil filler o-ring. Such a little problem ended up with me pitting 5 minutes early on every session
The oil filler o-ring goes bad after a while, I assume it was still the original on mine (~93k) since the previous owner didnt do any ******* replacements >_<
good luck with your projects
12-10-06, 03:34 PM
#28
7-itis
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Busted7 -- yeah, working out in the cold sucks a little, but once I get wrenching I get warm. And wearing three shirts and a hoodie helps too.
It would make sense to have the bellhousing vented. Maybe someone will chime in too, not that I'm doubting you.
'sl!mXP -- Haven't seen any oil leakage around my filler neck. I will double check, thank you for the heads up. Is sl!m gonna have to smack a p.o.?
Thank you all for the replies. I'm honestly surprised this thread has been helpful and not full of the usual b.s. that this forum has. Props to all of you.
Jason
It would make sense to have the bellhousing vented. Maybe someone will chime in too, not that I'm doubting you.
'sl!mXP -- Haven't seen any oil leakage around my filler neck. I will double check, thank you for the heads up. Is sl!m gonna have to smack a p.o.?
Thank you all for the replies. I'm honestly surprised this thread has been helpful and not full of the usual b.s. that this forum has. Props to all of you.
Jason
12-10-06, 04:51 PM
#29
funny you should say that...
search N00b!!!
I forgot to mention you can also get those clips from mcmaster in regular steel for alot cheaper. You can get 100 for $3, but they'll rust and you probably won't need more than the 10 stainless ones you can get for a little more.
search N00b!!!
I forgot to mention you can also get those clips from mcmaster in regular steel for alot cheaper. You can get 100 for $3, but they'll rust and you probably won't need more than the 10 stainless ones you can get for a little more.
12-10-06, 06:27 PM
#30
7-itis
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You dink. 
I asked for it!
I'll go with the SS ones. I don't know what I would do with 100 of those little bastards anyways, and you're right on with the rusting.
Dale Clark -- I don't understand what you mean about just unbolting the front part of the PPF (I think this was in another thread that I looked at.) It doesn't appear that it will just hang down and out of the way, it looks to me like the diff is mounted to the rear subframe in the back. I will gently try it, but I have the unfortunate feeling that I will be pulling the whole thing out. I need to buy a 21mm deep socket and a breaker bar.
Jason
I asked for it!I'll go with the SS ones. I don't know what I would do with 100 of those little bastards anyways, and you're right on with the rusting.
Dale Clark -- I don't understand what you mean about just unbolting the front part of the PPF (I think this was in another thread that I looked at.) It doesn't appear that it will just hang down and out of the way, it looks to me like the diff is mounted to the rear subframe in the back. I will gently try it, but I have the unfortunate feeling that I will be pulling the whole thing out. I need to buy a 21mm deep socket and a breaker bar.
Jason
12-10-06, 09:39 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by edwin-82/rx7
Busted7 -- yeah, working out in the cold sucks a little, but once I get wrenching I get warm. And wearing three shirts and a hoodie helps too.
It would make sense to have the bellhousing vented. Maybe someone will chime in too, not that I'm doubting you.
'sl!mXP -- Haven't seen any oil leakage around my filler neck. I will double check, thank you for the heads up. Is sl!m gonna have to smack a p.o.?
Thank you all for the replies. I'm honestly surprised this thread has been helpful and not full of the usual b.s. that this forum has. Props to all of you.
Jason
It would make sense to have the bellhousing vented. Maybe someone will chime in too, not that I'm doubting you.
'sl!mXP -- Haven't seen any oil leakage around my filler neck. I will double check, thank you for the heads up. Is sl!m gonna have to smack a p.o.?
Thank you all for the replies. I'm honestly surprised this thread has been helpful and not full of the usual b.s. that this forum has. Props to all of you.
Jason
12-10-06, 09:57 PM
#32
I recommend getting one of these from Lowes:
http://www.reddyheat.com/productType...3.1-&sub=10095
And for more comfort, get some old carpets or towels to lay on when you're under the car. And you'll never know how much nicer it is to work in a lot of light until you HAVE a lot of light. While you're at Lowes getting your ReddyHeater, pick up some cheap hanging fluorescent lights to hang in there... with the heat and the light, you'll be much happier! I've got a lot of experience working in crappy locations, trust me!
http://www.reddyheat.com/productType...3.1-&sub=10095
And for more comfort, get some old carpets or towels to lay on when you're under the car. And you'll never know how much nicer it is to work in a lot of light until you HAVE a lot of light. While you're at Lowes getting your ReddyHeater, pick up some cheap hanging fluorescent lights to hang in there... with the heat and the light, you'll be much happier! I've got a lot of experience working in crappy locations, trust me!
12-11-06, 12:04 AM
#34
7-itis
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Hey, good news is the tranny came out. Bad news, it kinda pinned me. 
Tying the engine up to the strut tower for support is genius! I wish I could take credit for it, but I saw it in another thread.
Separating the throwout bearing from the pp was EASY! Push the t/o to the pp, hold the brass colored retainer to the pp, release t/o then pry a little and presto. HowardColeman has a great thread about it, with better descriptions.
I finally understand what DaleClark was talking about, not having to pull the whole PPF and all. I supported the tranny end with a little block of wood.
Had to move the exhaust a little and tie it up.
Old clutch is history, here is a little comparison:
Honestly, to me it doesn't even look that worn, but I could smell it burning a little under heavy acceleration from time to time.
Once I get another helper, I'll get the tranny back in and filled up. Then I can test it out (in the garage, due to the salt that I see on the roads now), de-pressurize the fuel system, and then it's on to pulling injectors!
I still can't tell where all the oil is coming from, I'm pretty sure that it is partly from the rear main seal. However, I'm really reluctant to pull the flywheel since I don't have/can't afford (yet) the right tools. And that nut is friggin huge, it's going to be a bitch. With so many miles on the motor, I'm sure it can hold out for a little while until it is rebuild time...
And here's a nice little pic my friend drew. He explained that there was no face drawn, because with ***** that big, the face doesn't matter! (Just kidding, to the few girls on the forum...)
Just noticed now, it looks like she's driving!
I'm tired, my arm hurts and it's 1AM. Bedtime.
Jason
Tying the engine up to the strut tower for support is genius! I wish I could take credit for it, but I saw it in another thread.
Separating the throwout bearing from the pp was EASY! Push the t/o to the pp, hold the brass colored retainer to the pp, release t/o then pry a little and presto. HowardColeman has a great thread about it, with better descriptions.
I finally understand what DaleClark was talking about, not having to pull the whole PPF and all. I supported the tranny end with a little block of wood.
Had to move the exhaust a little and tie it up.
Old clutch is history, here is a little comparison:
Honestly, to me it doesn't even look that worn, but I could smell it burning a little under heavy acceleration from time to time.
Once I get another helper, I'll get the tranny back in and filled up. Then I can test it out (in the garage, due to the salt that I see on the roads now), de-pressurize the fuel system, and then it's on to pulling injectors!
I still can't tell where all the oil is coming from, I'm pretty sure that it is partly from the rear main seal. However, I'm really reluctant to pull the flywheel since I don't have/can't afford (yet) the right tools. And that nut is friggin huge, it's going to be a bitch. With so many miles on the motor, I'm sure it can hold out for a little while until it is rebuild time...
And here's a nice little pic my friend drew. He explained that there was no face drawn, because with ***** that big, the face doesn't matter! (Just kidding, to the few girls on the forum...)
Just noticed now, it looks like she's driving!
I'm tired, my arm hurts and it's 1AM. Bedtime.
Jason
12-11-06, 01:42 AM
#35
Will work for horsepower
Just a tip that might help when it goes back in grease all touch points on the clutch arm, and clean and grease dowel pins on trans as with the salt it makes it easer to put in. PS its getting warmer in mo, so in a day or two it should warm a little. Good luck!
12-13-06, 11:29 AM
#39
7-itis
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Well, I figured you guys were right, and that I should just do the rear main seal while it's all apart. Now I am waiting on Mazdatrix so I can have my new flywheel brake and flywheel nut wrench. Also got a rear main seal ordered from Ray Crowe, that guy is the ****! I also read in another thread that the "blind hole puller" from autozone works to get the pilot bearing out, so after changing the plugs in the FB I'm off to rent one of those.
In the meantime, I found that the non-turbo brake (for my FB) works well enough for clutch removal/installation:
And, I got the inside of the bellhousing pretty well cleaned up. Now I have to pick up some of that stuff DaleClark mentioned so I can tackle more of this mess.
While the flywheel is off, I'm going to have it resurfaced at a highly recommended local shop.
Jason
In the meantime, I found that the non-turbo brake (for my FB) works well enough for clutch removal/installation:
And, I got the inside of the bellhousing pretty well cleaned up. Now I have to pick up some of that stuff DaleClark mentioned so I can tackle more of this mess.
While the flywheel is off, I'm going to have it resurfaced at a highly recommended local shop.
Jason
12-13-06, 07:27 PM
#42
Will work for horsepower
fd3s.net has a write up on the seal replacement. I dont think you need to drain oil, im sure you dont. Just remember dont unbolt the eccentric shaft cover to replace seal!
12-24-06, 11:36 PM
#44
7-itis
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Well, lots of stuff got done. Flywheel got resurfaced ($30) and the guy did a great job. Rear main seal had a lot of oil on it, that got replaced. I just about died putting the transmission back in. All that is really left is putting tranny fluid in. I'll update with pics later.
12-25-06, 12:29 PM
#45
Originally Posted by edwin-82/rx7
Well, lots of stuff got done. Flywheel got resurfaced ($30) and the guy did a great job. Rear main seal had a lot of oil on it, that got replaced. I just about died putting the transmission back in. All that is really left is putting tranny fluid in. I'll update with pics later.
12-25-06, 01:08 PM
#46
7-itis
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Yeah, the guy mentioned that he would have to pull pins and do some measurements. He was worried that while sitting on the milling machine the flywheel wouldn't be true enough to do it, but it turned out it was ok.
Jason
Jason
12-27-06, 12:50 AM
#48
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Well, I just got everything finished up (fluid in tranny, undertray back on, etc) and it started right up! I let it warm up all the way and moved it forwards and backwards in the garage and the clutch worked perfectly. No odd noises from the tranny area or throwout bearing, so nothing got damaged while putting it back in. Had a little bit of smoke from the downpipe, I was worried until I wrote it off as all the greasy fingerprints I put on it burning off.
I'm so excited that it started right up, as I messed with a LOT of stuff while doing this part of the project. This was the biggest job I've done on a car as sophisticated as this, and going back and thinking of all the little **** that could have gone wrong... well I'm very happy that everything seems to be working ok. I put a piece of cardboard down on the floor so I can check for leaks for the next few days.
Now I have to wait until spring to get this thing back on the road to give it some high speed testing... Damnit!
I'm so excited that it started right up, as I messed with a LOT of stuff while doing this part of the project. This was the biggest job I've done on a car as sophisticated as this, and going back and thinking of all the little **** that could have gone wrong... well I'm very happy that everything seems to be working ok. I put a piece of cardboard down on the floor so I can check for leaks for the next few days.
Now I have to wait until spring to get this thing back on the road to give it some high speed testing... Damnit!
12-27-06, 01:33 AM
#49
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Originally Posted by windom
Get a heater before you start working. I don't know how cold it is there, but it's much more worth it, unless you're hardcore and can bare it. It's like 15F right now here. Oh, remember the bottom of your car will still be a little chilly, heat rises unless you completely heat your garage up to like 90F. lol
You shouldn't have any issues with the propane in a garage. You usually get issues in a tent or something extremely small for long periods of time.
I know Menard's here carries them. I bought a 55,000-75,000 unit, and I regretted not getting the 75,000-125,000 unit.
You shouldn't have any issues with the propane in a garage. You usually get issues in a tent or something extremely small for long periods of time.
I know Menard's here carries them. I bought a 55,000-75,000 unit, and I regretted not getting the 75,000-125,000 unit.
. We burned down a mini tent with one of those by accident.
