Will Rx-7s appreciate or deappreciate
#51
it will appreciate. it is the most focused Japanese sports car of its time. the supra and 300zx are more like gt sports cars wheras the rx7 is raw and pure sports. even the nsx at over twice it's msrp couldn't surpass its performance at the racetrack. the only thing keeping back its resale value from eclipsing a supra is reliability. with a supra, you can mod it to 450hp on a stock engine and not worry too much about blowing it.
#52
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Originally Posted by FD mission
AST, radiator, pre cat, main cat, engine coolant seals, air pump, IC and couplings, wiring harness...shall I go on? very, very few stock FDs have all of the above intact at +100k....like NONE
my original point stands....these cars are a ticking time bomb stock
Radiator, argueable, at this point age is getting to them as much as mileage.
Pre-cat, argueable, if track use at all I agree.
Main cat, main cat lasts quite a while.
Engine coolant seals, no reliability mods I know of fix this problem, maybe Miata thermoswitch.
Air pump, not a problem.
IC, stock IC works fine at stock boost levels, higher boost is not a reliability mod.
Couplings, good point, stock Y-pipe connector splits easily. Not a big "reliability" mod though.
Wiring harness, what is the reliability mod for that?
#53
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
AST, yep I already said that.
Radiator, argueable, at this point age is getting to them as much as mileage.
Pre-cat, argueable, if track use at all I agree.
Main cat, main cat lasts quite a while.
Engine coolant seals, no reliability mods I know of fix this problem, maybe Miata thermoswitch.
Air pump, not a problem.
IC, stock IC works fine at stock boost levels, higher boost is not a reliability mod.
Couplings, good point, stock Y-pipe connector splits easily. Not a big "reliability" mod though.
Wiring harness, what is the reliability mod for that?
Radiator, argueable, at this point age is getting to them as much as mileage.
Pre-cat, argueable, if track use at all I agree.
Main cat, main cat lasts quite a while.
Engine coolant seals, no reliability mods I know of fix this problem, maybe Miata thermoswitch.
Air pump, not a problem.
IC, stock IC works fine at stock boost levels, higher boost is not a reliability mod.
Couplings, good point, stock Y-pipe connector splits easily. Not a big "reliability" mod though.
Wiring harness, what is the reliability mod for that?
air pumps fail quite often on these cars
"reliability mod" for such items as the wiring harness isn't the point, the point is bone stock these cars won't make it to 100k
stock IC "works fine"???
#54
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Air pumps fail on car's with a "hot air intake". The secret for air pump life is to have a stock or ducted cold air intake.
Reliability mods were exactly my point. I won't argue FDs are don't last like Hondas, my point is "reliabilty mods" won't really make much difference in the life of many of the parts you mention.
The stock IC does work fine at stock power levels. Adding a bigger IC won't make your engine last longer, opening up the intake and exhaust making more power won't make your engine last longer.
Most stock and "mildly" modded FD's engine failures are due to loosing coolant seals. A bigger radiator won't change coolant temps unless the stock was is bad. The engine fans control water temp.
Reliability mods were exactly my point. I won't argue FDs are don't last like Hondas, my point is "reliabilty mods" won't really make much difference in the life of many of the parts you mention.
The stock IC does work fine at stock power levels. Adding a bigger IC won't make your engine last longer, opening up the intake and exhaust making more power won't make your engine last longer.
Most stock and "mildly" modded FD's engine failures are due to loosing coolant seals. A bigger radiator won't change coolant temps unless the stock was is bad. The engine fans control water temp.
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
Reliability mods were exactly my point. I won't argue FDs are don't last like Hondas, my point is "reliabilty mods" won't really make much difference in the life of many of the parts you mention.
Originally Posted by turbojeff
The stock IC does work fine at stock power levels. Adding a bigger IC won't make your engine last longer, opening up the intake and exhaust making more power won't make your engine last longer.
Originally Posted by trubojeff
Most stock and "mildly" modded FD's engine failures are due to loosing coolant seals. A bigger radiator won't change coolant temps unless the stock was is bad. The engine fans control water temp.
wow Jeff, no wonder you and Jim go round and round
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I believe 1st gens will appreciate, I've met some neighbors who have had them in college and have gone out and bought recently as weekend drivers. As far as the 3rd gen, I also believe they will increase down the road, ONLY if it is stock and straight. Look at all the kids buying these things hotrodding them and doing the FAST AND FURIOUS thing. They were in limited supply to begin with, they were very expensive for their time and those few remaing pristine examples will be worth some good bread down the road. This was basicly a street legal race car in 95. Look at what else was on the road then - do you think a 95 mustang will be worth anything?
#57
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Originally Posted by FD mission
disagree....upgrading the radiator for instance can easily prevent overheating, which is typically fatal on these cars
disagree....whenever you can lower charge temps by about 100 degrees it's beneficial to the life of the engine and dramatically lowers the risk of detonation....uncorking the exhaust also helps the engine run cooler and decreases stress on the motor
disagree....it's a proven fact upgraded radiators lower coolant temps....ambient air flowing through the radiator is what cools the engine, which 90% of the time is not assisted by the fans
wow Jeff, no wonder you and Jim go round and round
disagree....whenever you can lower charge temps by about 100 degrees it's beneficial to the life of the engine and dramatically lowers the risk of detonation....uncorking the exhaust also helps the engine run cooler and decreases stress on the motor
disagree....it's a proven fact upgraded radiators lower coolant temps....ambient air flowing through the radiator is what cools the engine, which 90% of the time is not assisted by the fans
wow Jeff, no wonder you and Jim go round and round
90% of the time ambient air is flowing through the radiator stock or upgraded the engine is running relatively cool, for example on the freeway. It is the 10% (your number, could be 50% depending on driving habits) of the time that it is at 221F in traffic that cooks it.
Do you have an aftermarket water temp guage? I do and it is obvious to me that the stock fans turn on at very high temps. If the fans aren't running and you are going less than ~30mph then the engine will get hot no matter what radiator you have.
#58
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
Funny when you see some guy that isn't on the forum with one of these cars, driven normally it doesn't really have nearly the problems all the "reliabilty modded" cars have.
90% of the time ambient air is flowing through the radiator stock or upgraded the engine is running relatively cool, for example on the freeway. It is the 10% (your number, could be 50% depending on driving habits) of the time that it is at 221F in traffic that cooks it.
Do you have an aftermarket water temp guage? I do and it is obvious to me that the stock fans turn on at very high temps. If the fans aren't running and you are going less than ~30mph then the engine will get hot no matter what radiator you have.
90% of the time ambient air is flowing through the radiator stock or upgraded the engine is running relatively cool, for example on the freeway. It is the 10% (your number, could be 50% depending on driving habits) of the time that it is at 221F in traffic that cooks it.
Do you have an aftermarket water temp guage? I do and it is obvious to me that the stock fans turn on at very high temps. If the fans aren't running and you are going less than ~30mph then the engine will get hot no matter what radiator you have.
Dave
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
The only 'risk' with my stock radiator is that it might pop an endtank someday.
the fiberglass began to flake off in my stock radiator (another complete piece of **** stock part on this car) within 50k miles
hey, it's your car, play russian roulette with it, you'll learn the hard way....I've owned an FD for 7 trouble free years now because I constantly stay on top of the pm, including the so-called "reliability mods", which is basically replacing every non static wear item on the car (and the IC)
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Originally Posted by turbojeff
Funny when you see some guy that isn't on the forum with one of these cars, driven normally it doesn't really have nearly the problems all the "reliabilty modded" cars have.
#61
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Originally Posted by FD mission
maybe someday soon....
the fiberglass began to flake off in my stock radiator (another complete piece of **** stock part on this car) within 50k miles
hey, it's your car, play russian roulette with it, you'll learn the hard way....I've owned an FD for 7 trouble free years now because I constantly stay on top of the pm, including the so-called "reliability mods", which is basically replacing every non static wear item on the car (and the IC)
the fiberglass began to flake off in my stock radiator (another complete piece of **** stock part on this car) within 50k miles
hey, it's your car, play russian roulette with it, you'll learn the hard way....I've owned an FD for 7 trouble free years now because I constantly stay on top of the pm, including the so-called "reliability mods", which is basically replacing every non static wear item on the car (and the IC)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...13#post3977713
I've owned 20 FDs and worked on many others. I've owned mine for over 6yrs.
You have the right to your opinion, I have the right to mine. My opinion says you are lying in one thread or another.
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correct, I did pop my engine racing a WS6 several years ago, but that was because I as using a manual boost controller that was not cockpit adjustable and I hit 15+ psi on a pettit ECU on a cold night (after multiple back-to-back runs where I won every race)....I don't consider that a reliability issue, simply operating the car outside the window of tuning and 100% my fault
anyway, aside from that unfortunate incident the 7 years have been "trouble free" as far as the car never leaving me stranded
you're still dead wrong jeff, I don't care how many FDs you've worked on
anyway, aside from that unfortunate incident the 7 years have been "trouble free" as far as the car never leaving me stranded
you're still dead wrong jeff, I don't care how many FDs you've worked on
#63
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Originally Posted by FD mission
correct, I did pop my engine racing a WS6 several years ago, but that was because I as using a manual boost controller that was not cockpit adjustable and I hit 15+ psi on a pettit ECU on a cold night (after multiple back-to-back runs where I won every race)....I don't consider that a reliability issue, simply operating the car outside the window of tuning and 100% my fault
Next!
#65
Originally Posted by impactwrench
I have a 71' Cuda convertible for sale for $1500.00, anyone interested?
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