hi!

I went out tonight with a friend for some pulls and after a little bit of playing around with one and other, we did a pull from 2nd gear up to Top Speed.
Everything looked OK. Didn't saw any problems on the PFC and the car pulled really strong all the way to the top.

When we were slowing down and just cruising to cool down the temps, I noticed something strange but couldnt put my finger on it. Pulled a 3rd gear and look fine. Everything OK on the PFC.
After I stoped the car, the idle was a little more boucy then usual, the vacum was at around 250-300 @ 650-700rpms and the engine was shaking a bit.

Couldn't find anything wrong just by looking around the engine bay and so, went back home. It almoust tryes to die has I start do move. Pulled a 2nd gear and a 3rd gear later: Boosted perfectly but it did seem a little bit slower at higher revs...

Tomorrow after the car cools down i'm gonna take out the spark plugs and do a compression check. Going to remove the HKS Twin Power, just in case; check oils and coolant and......

Any other sugestions on what could I go check right up?

Mods: Intake, RB cat-back, no air-pump (taken out ages ago), res-midpipe, fuel pump, PFC, HKS TP.
Boost was set to 0.7-0.8 and during the pull it almoust reatched 0.9 one time (slowly got there) and then droped to 0.85 on the PFC.

Fire it up.

 

Id say check for some vac lines that could have poped off under the load. Also what were your Charge temps?

 

Didn't saw any vac lines off, but then again, coudn't reall see that many 2night (somewhat dark). Any couple of them in particular pop up on your mind?

Charge temps when up to 80ºC and I stoped when it got to it. Stock IC but a fresh night out.... Have seen them go higher for a short time before... :S

It almoust feels like it's only on 1 rotor... but it runs rather fine.... :S That's why I'm thinking a spark plug freaked out or something... :S

 

Well i definately think those air temps are way to hot to be pulling huge speed and boost. You have to be smart about it.

Check your MAP sensor, but it dosent sound like it would be it
Make sure your BOV and Boost Gauge Vac lines are still on the UIM
When it gets lighter outside, take the UIM off, and just closely inspect all of the Vac lines (most are for the sequential system) but just double check everything.

 

i would say its the spark plugs. could also be map sensor. my car had similar symptoms when mine was unpluged

i didnt understand what you meant with the vacuum though? 250-300?? standard healthy vacuum is 16-20 inches at idol.

 

i got same problem. changed all vacuum lines to new ones but still didn't solved the problem. and engine is shaking also.

 

Spark plugs are OK. But it seems my Trailing Rear plug is getting little or no spark at all... going to test the coil later this weekend when i get the time.

Quick question:
If I'm going to need the replace my Rear Trailing Coil, will I be able to do it just by removing the TB or do I have to take out the UIM? :S

 

You would have to take off the UIM, its buried under there.

 

argh...... oh well, guess i'll do the injectors upgrade while i'm at it.
taking out the UIM is going to be a 1st for me. wish me luck

 

There are other units in the world than american units. He's quoting mmHg, equivalent to about 10-12inHg.

And to the thread starter, you haven't gotten back with any compression numbers yet. I wouldn't get to pulling the UIM and replacing injectors until you've at least confirmed good compression.

 

I didn't do a compression test because clearly the traling #2 spark plug aint fireing.
And the problems the car is showing don't make me belive I got a blown/chiped seal.

Car idles "fine" (like I removed the air-pump on stock ECU), just somewhat lower then normal and shakes a little. Dosen't even stall once. Loss of power until around 2500rpms, good boost, etcs....

But don't worry, I'll do a compression test anyway when i replace the Trailing coil #2 and check if everything is working b4 the injector upgrade. I'll just keep the flow going and do everthing when its solved.

 

OK, after all this time I finally got the time to try and fix my car.
Tested all the coils for spark: they all have spark but the leading one(s) have less spark then the trailling ones. Is that normal?

Removed the UIM
Saw a small blue plug unplugged just under the small black box in front of the UIM (vacuum box?)
Checked the vacuum lines I could find and found nothing wrong.
Wasen't able to pull my spark plugs. I'm going to try that again tomorrow with some better tools. re-check all sparks (got spares with me) and do a compression check.

Any ideias/input?

I did drive the car around for this past month and besides having less power, a horrid smell of gas coming from the exahust (thouse behind me keep telling me) and a lower then normal/boucing idle + some shaking, it drives good.
The lower power isn't THAT huge. I still have enough power to beat my friends 06 Subaru wrx Sti Prodrive....

Throw me a bone here please... :S

 

Sounds like a chipped seal or a pinched seal from detonation and the dent in the rotor face pinching the apex seal. Had this happen in a customers car recently. It would run and idle on its own, it only pulled around 9-11 inches of vacuum and constantly bounced the idle up and down but not horribly.

Took it apart to realize the face of one of the rotors was dented heavily due to detonation and it pinched one of the apex seals in place. It was still making compression on all faces but not as much as it should have been.

Car acted the exact same as what you describe. Not saying that is it but sounds real familiar. Especially after you doing some hard pulls.

 

I agree with Mr. Jerome, things ain't lookin' good for the home team

 

yeah, i'm getting unhappy real fast...
Going to see if I can finaly do a comp. test today. My idle isn't really that boucing. Its just like when I removed the Air-pump and was still on stock ECU. A little unstable but no variations over 50rpms....

anyways, going to see how mutch would will it cost me to shipp my engine to the states.....