Hello everyone, very long time no see.

I'm installing an AEM X-Series WB, DL-340XB, and a Banzai ECU patch harness. I've snipped and inserted the wire from the DL to the ECU O2 sensor input in the patch harness. It would be super clean if I could splice/connect everything within the patch harness or very close to it. So far I've identified #4A, #4B, and #4C as grounds and #1B as EGI Main (30A fused).

The other option is to pull the X-Series power/ground harness leg across the dash to the switched power receptacle on the fuse box. Easy enough - but with the power and ground sheathed together, is there a suitably clean grounding point over near there?

Thanks in advance. I've never been a wiring guy and so I'm measuring 5x before stripping apart that leg of the X-Series harness.

David

 

dg,
Sure has been a long time. Glad to see you back!

 

Your best bet is to ground the 340xb at the same place you have your wideband grounded. Most use the ecu grounding point. Try to keep the leads as short as possible. If you’re planning on adding the master unit down the road, running a feed over to the ecu area to pick up the xb and eventually the master makes the most sense. Then you could power the xb initially, then change that over to the master / xb .


~ GW

 

I don't see any ground on the 340XB. It would appear to be grounded through either the PFC data port or the wideband ground.

 

Yep, it does not. I was thinking of the old datalogit. The xb is powered off the ecu. I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking. The only thing you need to address is what you already have for the O2 input. The leads for the wideband are on the xb harness which came with your kit.


~ GW

 

These guys: the wires directly to the O2 sensor.

 

I don't like the idea of sharing the ECU's 12V power wire with the wideband (or any other device). The reason to avoid sharing power wires is in case one device (or the harness wiring) somehow shorts out, it's nice to avoid that one device popping a shared fuse and killing power to all the other shared devices. The last thing I would want is for the ECU to lose power because some other device (or its harness) isn't working properly. Personally I would use one of those add-a-fuse things to add a 5 amps or 7.5 amps fuse for the wideband O2 gauge. I might tap on to the 10A Rear Wiper fuse, since it's on with the ignition key. If you are using the AN+ and AN- wires from the gauge that should help avoid signal measurement accuracy problems due to 'ground offsets', so the ground point for that AEM wideband gauge can go just somewhere to the chassis using a ring terminal on a bolt. I would use an uninsulated ring terminal, since you have a better chance at making a good crimp without the plastic insulation getting in the way. It's hard to find online suppliers that will sell just one or two pieces, but you can probably find them at local hardware stores like Ace Hardware, or local automotive electrical shops that can rebuild alternators. You want the wire gauge to be in the 18-22 AWG range, and the stud diameter to be about 0.25 inches (which is a little larger than the small 6mm x1.0 bolts commonly found in the interior and in the engine bay) ProWireUSA has great wiring supplies, but minimum order quantity 100 for ring terminals: https://www.prowireusa.com/p-1495-hi...22-18-1-4.html