Just curious, Cryogenic Treatment of metal sounds like a great idea. I know many racing teams use this treatment on their engines and other parts. Why/Has anyone attempted to do this to the internals of a Rotary engine??
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When metal is initially formed at normal atmospheric pressure and temperature the atoms & molecules are disorganized and there are weak particles in the metal called Austenite, these are actually large unstable particles of carbon.

What cryogenic processing does is to convert these weak and unstable carbon particles into Martensite, which are very strong and stable carbide particles. This transformation takes place the same way that regular carbon (which is soft and weak) is converted into diamonds… which is the hardest most durable material know to man – IT TAKES VERY EXTREME PRESSURE! Diamonds are pure carbon, however they have perfectly aligned carbon atoms!

In Cryogenic Processing the EXTREME PRESSURE comes from the physics of freezing to –300 degrees and the resultant contracting of the metal. This contraction, which would also happen under extreme pressure, forces the atoms & molecules to align and fit together tightly.

Once the metal warms back up to atmospheric temperature and pressure the molecules return to their normal spacing however now they are now highly organized, forming one virtually continuous strength piece of metal without the stress spots and weak particles that were in the metal prior to Cryogenic Processing.

Under a microscope you can actually see that the surface of the metal has become much smoother. This smoothing greatly reduces friction (which greatly reduces heat) and increases the resistance to wear of the metal up to 500%.

Cryogenic Processing works for all kinds of metal or metal alloys and some plastics such as nylon.

Motorsports racing enthusiast have their engines, drivetrains, & suspension parts Cryo’d to increase strength by up to 50% and can double the life of engine & drivetrain parts that are subject to wear.

Cryogenic processing is a one-time process that lasts for the life of the item.

Cryo’d metals can be machined or sharpened as much as you like and will retain all the improved properties throughout their life.

You should expect at least twice the life for all Cryo’d metal items that wear!

POSITIVE RESULTS FOR INCREASED STRENGTH AND LIFE

ARE GUARANTEED OR YOUR MONEY BACK !!!!!

 

I have been considering this since I had some brake rotors treated and experinced a significant improvement in their longevity.

I popped my motor recently after my boost control failed, so I'll probably try it out and see how it works. Thanks for reminding me!

-Max

 

Ouch - when did this happen and under what conditions? Did the Apexi BB catch any bits?

 

I know that Rob at Pineapple has been doing it for quite awhile. If you do decide to do it, i'd give him a call. certain things, like oil control rings, can't be to hard. Otherwise, your oil control rings will never seat in, causing oil consumption. I kid you not, that one experimental motor took, like 14k miles to stop using oil. By the way, there is hp gains involved with it. I'd give him a e-mail, or call. CJ

 

Anyone ever tried cryo-treating the apex seals?

 

Apex seals, bearings, rotors, e-shafts....you name it, you can freeze it. CJ

 

Max, you popped yourmotor!!!!?!??!?!?!

 

Believe it or not, I was DRIVING HOME from the track, and raced a car full of kids with my tire trailer attached. I didn't know what happened for a while, but I took the car out again and the boost shot up to 18-20 psi (should be 13) before I let off the gas, so it seems my boost control system probably failed. In the fateful race, the car made some crazy power and spun the tires all the way through second gear (it usually holds). I thought it might have been that the trailer tilted back and took weight off the rear tires (which is probably true to some extent anyway) but the tires spun like mad and my later drive leads me to believe that it was high boost that killed it. My peak-hold fuel pressure gauge says 85 psi despite the fact that I just have the stock regulator in place. Doing the math says I hit 45 psi of boost, which is surely far higher than it really got, but still it usally reads about 60 psi tops. So, my conclusion is that it was overboost. I suspect the wastegate got stuck, because it seems to work okay sometimes and not so good other times. For instance, I've had trouble on the track with it seeming to stick open a little bit and killing my low-end boost response. If the diapragm failed, it seems like it would not work at all.

If it is the wastegate, it may have failed from elevated exhaust temps. My J&S has been falsing a lot lately and retarding the ignition. That should make the exhaust really hot. I don't think it is actual detonation because the PowerFC shows no strange activity from the stock sensor.

I don't know if the turbo was hit yet or not. It seems to work okay, and I don't hear any weird noises, so hopefully it is okay. I suspect that I may have simply cracked a seal, without losing any pieces through the exhaust, as that is what happened to my first motor with the stock turbos. And the car still starts, runs, and makes decent power under boost (though not as much as before), so whatever the failure was it wasn't a total meltdown. The idle is lumpy and it is weak down low, so I am quite sure that the motor is damaged -- I just don't know the exact details yet. I really hope I don't have to get a new turbo. The non-rebuildable RX6 turbo is the only major downside to the A'PEXi kit, in my opinion.

My goal is to get the car prepared and tested for the Open Track Challenge in the beginning of May, so I'll be getting a rebuild at Mazdatrix soon. I am still driving the car and taking care of odds and ends in the meantime. I just installed an AVC-R to handle boost control, for instance.

-Max