limepro

iTrader: (2)

I have read about 30 threads with white smoke in them, still does not answer my question.

Car runs perfect, starts right up, no hesitation, no bogging and the smoke does not smell like coolant.

This started recently and smells of gas, it is only after the car is up to temp and only when I have to stop abruptly without down shifting. Car is all stock except Intake, Down-pipe, mid-pipe and exhaust. I am guessing it is dumping fuel and being burnt in the exhaust, if I tap the gas while stopped it stops until I stop again. If I stop slowly downshifting it does not do this and never smokes while accelerating or on start up. My coolant level is not going down and I get decent mileage (roughly 15-17mpg)

Anyone confirm that it is just dumping fuel? or a different problem I am missing? Any way to remedy this without putting a cat back in it?

I have been checking the coolant level every couple days and it hasn't gone down any since this started. It started after I got the mid-pipe installed a couple weeks ago.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

gas= grey/brown
coolant = white
oil = light blue/almost white

coolant doesn't always have a distinct smell to it, depending on brand. gasoline also doesn't always have a distinct smell to it, as i have it smell like burnt plastic when certain conditions are met. oil always smells like used motor oil with a hint of barbecue.

now that i have further confused you, it is likely oil that is sitting in the intake tract and getting pushed into the intake during abrupt stops. there's no mod list so i can only guess. there should be no reason why a hard stop would make the engine run richer to the point of smoking, but stranger things have happened with these cars.

limepro

iTrader: (2)

It is a greyish white smoke, car is stock except DP, MP and greddy exhaust as stated. Sometimes the smoke is thick other times you can barely tell it is there and sometimes none at all. If I blip the gas when I see it, it goes away.

I keep trying to duplicate it when I park, it just won't do it when I stop slowly.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

well then there is likely something with the fuel system that is causing it to run excessively rich, a sudden stop will put a quick idle down load on the engine but it is only very minor. that could possibly just be triggering the idle to drop too far triggering a chain of events while trying to bring the idle back up.

pull codes and start there.

having full open exhaust with no other fuel mods isn't a good idea either, btw.

limepro

iTrader: (2)

That is what I figured it was, just wanted another opinion. I keep a watch on all fluids and am constantly doing something with it. More mods are coming just slowly, I am only boosting 6psi and was told my cat was clogged not allowing it to fully boost and that should be the first thing I do.

I did that and it didn't fix it so now I am checking all the solenoids and such, to fix that. I am also not 100% sure of everything that has been done to the car, I purchased it 2 months ago and am still going through it. I drive my DD but for short drives I enjoy taking out the 7, just want to make sure I get everything sorted out on it.

limepro

iTrader: (2)

Well, I got the problem to stop, not sure if I did it the correct way but it doesn't smoke anymore. Every time I would come to a stop my RPMs would dip to 5-600 or so and search and settle around 700. I adjusted the RPM to be around 800 and it hasn't done it, will find out more tomorrow when I get more drive time.

limepro

iTrader: (2)

I also did the champagne test today and came out perfect, not a single bubble came up. Now to get my boost to 10psi, sucks having no garage and no cement to lift it on.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Heed this warning. Full open exhaust has been the death of many motors... Especially as you start to trouble shoot the boost issue. I recommend a restrictor plate to help control unwanted boost creep until you can upgrade the ecu and/or port your wastegate. For other ideas on that do a search on here for "boost creep". This is a different issue than boost spikes and more dangerous.

If your mods are coming in slowly, you should wait to install important or more major mods until you have the supporting mods in place. i know it is hard to resist installing something you just spent a lot of money on, but it really is in your best interest to do modifications very deliberately (well thought out and planned) and in order on this motor. It is a great and strong motor, but is VERY unforgiving if things are done wrong or half-assed.

On your original issue, since adjusting the idle helped, you may take a look at the TPS and see if it is set up properly and also if your idle control valve is functioning as it should. How to trouble shoot both of these items may be found in the FSM and are linked below in my signature. It is a free download on here and will be invaluable to you in the future.

Another word of advice since it is a "new to you" car, go through and change the spark plugs, wires, oil, tranny oil, coolant, and fuel filter. It is difficult to know what the previous owner did recently and changing these items may save you from chasing a small irritating issue later. Things like a plugged fuel filter may also result in a popped motor...

Lastly, welcome to the RX7 forum and I hope you enjoy your FD. It really is an amazing car and if you have not gotten to drive it with more than 6lbs of boost boy are you in for a treat when that issue is resolved!

limepro

iTrader: (2)

Begging the wife to buy a PFC lol, Oil I have already changed twice and I am doing the coolant and tranny flush tomorrow. I am waiting for my new shifter to come in since the old one is the original and all the rubber is broken on it. Right now I rarely drive it, usually just to test things or to run less than 5 miles down the street. I am doing things slowly and attempting to them correct, only reason for the open exhaust is it was recommended to me and told me it would fix the boost problem. My old cat was completely clogged and with the air pump off it would have just clogged again putting another one on.

Now with a PFC is there still a need for a boost controller? or should I put one on anyway just as a backup?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the PFC can control boost but it is ramped by the ECU to aim for the target but is rarely reliable as most newer EBCs which can control boost duty cycle based on engine RPMs.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

With the stock sequential turbo system it is possible to control boost with the PFC. Although I could not even begin to tell you how to. It is on this board somewhere as well as I am also sure it is in the PFC instruction manual.

I understand the reason for the mp install, but still recommend you read up on boost creep. It is something you will want to take precautions for. The restrictor plate is the simplest as well as most cost effective (can be done for $5).

The fuel filter is a PITA to change but a definite necessity, and most relocate it while changing it. (many writeups on here of examples of relocation). Plugs/wires are not too bad but will take you a little while the first time you do it.

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

Bonez makes a nice high flow cat for the FD if the noise + boost creep are both factors.

It's important to understand that a boost controller will not fix a boost creep problem. Boost spikes, yes, but not creep.