Royal purple 10w? syn or non?

 

I use Pennzoil 20w-50, Bosch oil filter, NGK 9's, and GReddy AIRNX.

If you're not using 20w-50, you're asking for trouble.

 

I heard that Mazda revised their recommendation from the 10W30 to the 20W50. You guys running 10W30 may want to switch.

 

No they didn't.

As far as that goes, synthetic is still not officially approved by Mazda, but that doesn't stop many of us from enjoying the better lubrication and heat resistance of the synthetic oils.

 

Well, it's your call. Every mechanic I've talked to agree on the 20W50. As frequently as we change oil in these cars, synthetic isn't cost effective, for me at least.

 

I like to use the cheapest of all the above because they must be changed out so frequently, it does not really matter. as long as its from a fairly reputable company, it should be just fine.

BTW: i have no idea what spark i use, i think its just the generic type that jumps the gap

 

Royal Purple only makes synthetic. As for weight it depends on the time of year.
dis1

 

Royal Purple 10w30 K&N oil filter Magnacore wires stock NGK plugs and Proteck fuel lube in the gas.

 

Oil: Mobil 1 15-50, because it gets so damn hot around here
Filter: Mobil 1 or OEM
Wires: NGK OEM replacement (they were cheap and have worked well for the last 15,000 or so)
Plugs: NGK 7s & 9s, because thats what is availible

 

That's exactly my reasoning BK7. I have two engines from a leading builder who says the oil has to be 20w-50 period. I thought it was a known fact.

My 2003 Audi 2.7T engine, on the other hand, takes Mobil1 0w-30 at all times as per Audi.

 

Do you guys use anti sieze on your sparks?

 

Mobil 1 10w30 - After reading all of the synth/non-synth debate I'm on the synth side, lets not rehash here.
Oil filter - Whatever filter the shop that changes my oil puts in, with as often as its changed I'm not sure the filter matters too much
Plugs - NGK 7/9, stock motor, not many mods, stock plugs
Wires - Stock, they work and a lot of the "better" aftermarket wires I've read horror stories about

On the whole subject of oil changes I think the 3 month/3,000 mile number is a joke for the average car these days. We have much better filtration, much cleaner roads, better engineered engines and more pure and longer lasting oils. I'm up to 132,000 miles on my Camry changing the oil every 10-20k miles (I've gone 3 years w/out an oil change on it only lived a mile from work for 2 years so tons of short drives) based on regular visual inspections. I don't even run synthetic oil in it. I've actually considered never changing the oil on it again just to see how long it goes until I have a failure. Right now I'm at about 14k miles since my last change and on visual the oil still looks fine and based on feel I notice a minor increase in viscosity and small drop in performance but nothing significant.

I don't really recommend this if you think you're going to put 400k miles on a motor but with the amount of miles I drive each year the rest of the car is going to wear out and be donated to charity/junked long before the engine has any major issues due to infrequent oil changes.

On the RX-7 I'm going to change it every 3m/3,000 or so at least for the first year or two and take visuals of the oil at each change. With the rotary I'm curious how much the fuel thins and effects the performance of the oil.

I understand that sure oil changes are cheap and its peace of mind but if I spent $$ on every "cheap" thing to give me better "peace of mind" it'd add up to a lot of wasted money. Oil changes are just one thing on the car but why just oil changes if not all of the other things you could be doing across the rest of your life? What kind of food do you eat as an example? Change the oil every 3k miles but feed your face with McDs or other fast food? The car lives on but you don't so what good is that?

 

FWIW, on the FD i change the oil every 2500 miles, but in the Sentra, I only changed the oil every 7-9k miles or so. Mainly bc it was a daily beater and I didn't give a **** about it. Sold the car with 210,xxx on the clock, and it was still kicking just fine.

Oh, and if your wondering, i did change the oil for the new owner

 

Mobil 1 5w30 in winter, 5w50 in summer (used to run RP but too much $$$) ... I run synth to improve cold start oil flow, for reduced friction, and decrease probability of coking oil in the turbo bearing.

WIX oil filters because they have great rep (I typically change oil several times before change filter).

Taylor spiro pro wires ... fit great, good price from summit, low resistance, great rep in muscle car arena, and noticed gains as compared to stock pos wires.

NGK race 10.5 plugs for trailing and NGK 9 iridiums in leading ... always experimenting. NGK race plugs run awesome, better than anything I have tried. At $25 ea I have looked for options plus they foul real easy if you stall a cold motor.

 

I do!

 

Hell yes! I anti-seize whenever appropriate which is often. That stuff makes things go smoother for sure. We had a guy cross-threaded a plug that was "a little difficult" and screwed up his housing a bit; might havbeen avoided with some anti-seize.

 

RP 15W-40 (2 10W-30, 2 20W-50)
OEM filter
Magencor plugs

RP has an extremely low ash content. Oil change every 1K-1.5L, filter change every 3K
Magnecor because I wanted to replace the plugs and said why not.
OEM filter because it works and is cheap. I order 4+ when I need to from Mazdaformance, 5.00 + .25? for the crush washer. Use new crush washers!

 

20-50w Penzoil and Magnecor 10mm wires....

Tom

 

Well I've been getting Amsoil from the same guy for a while now and I go there so much he gives me a 10% discount so oil price isn't all that bad. Sure its still more than conventional oils, but for the added peace of mind, I think its worth it.

 

castrol gtx 10w-50 ngk and magicron 8mm wires

 

oh yeah and a fram filter

 

I'm 100% convinced the Bosch Premium filter is the exact same thing as the Mobil 1 filter. Go check for yourself and save a few $$.

 

My mechanic, who has built hundreds of engines over the course of 20 years or so doesn't recommend 20w50. If I lived in a very hot climate, I would use that weight for summer months only. 20 is too high of a rating for colder weather.

There is no reason to be constantly changing the oil. It's wasteful and is harmful to the environment. 3 months/3k miles is a good interval. Synthetic is MUCH better for the turbos than dino juice (and is much better for the motor when tracking the car) and doesn't really add that much to maintenance costs if you aren't changing your oil every 1000 miles (which is insane).

 

20w50 Royal Purple
Napa Gold Oil Filter
NGK Iridium

 

do the Iridium plugs really last longer than NGK platinums? it's not just the electrode itself that wears out