what NOT to do when replacing your clutch
#1
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what NOT to do when replacing your clutch
It would be ok if I could say "Yea, I was pullin' the tranny and when I was lifting it off I hit my eye". But no,
I was just taking off the 21 mm nuts from the PPF with a nice 1/2 breaker bar, when clank, right into the side of my cheek! It was already loose, and I was moving the ratchet easily. Barely touched my cheek bone right underneath my eye, but it turned black (it actually looks worse in person).
Here's the garage in shambles:
And here's the reason for my headache:
Looks like it had a weak spot where there is a small cross bolt drilled through the cast fork.
PS. Removing the clutch is actually easy, just make sure you have the right tools.
#2
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<laugh> Sorry to hear of your troubles...reminds me of the guy on www.nsxfiles.com.
http://www.nsxfiles.com/flywheel.htm
http://www.nsxfiles.com/flywheel.htm
#3
Man...ouch. You must be on the phone with me.
Reminds me of Goodfella's fake post about the shift **** flying off and smacking him in the eye.
While you got the tranny out, how's your 5th gear synchro?
Reminds me of Goodfella's fake post about the shift **** flying off and smacking him in the eye.
While you got the tranny out, how's your 5th gear synchro?
#5
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The synchro seems fine, even with 95K miles. ( I don't mis-shift )
What I did notice is that the driveshaft u-joints will need to be rebuilt with replacable joints; they seem a little notchy. I'll do that when I get the engine rebuilt, hopefully a while from now.
What I did notice is that the driveshaft u-joints will need to be rebuilt with replacable joints; they seem a little notchy. I'll do that when I get the engine rebuilt, hopefully a while from now.
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#10
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hey you have Metrinch!!! it's soo cool although I only use it on Metric stuff, but comes in handy when dealing with the US sizes.
hope you get better
David
hope you get better
David
#11
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The Metrinch has saved me a few times when there are bolts / nuts that are rounded a little. Mine are good for both metric and standard.
And after a week and a half, my eye is still black.
Oh well, at least it was done right
On a side note, the only thing that scared the crap outa me was when I removed the rear stationary gear. This bolts direclty to the back of the engine and is what the rear rotor turns on and eccentric shaft sits in. Well, I removed it because there was oil coming from around that, not just the rear main seal.
Anyways, I unbolt it and it comes off but not very easily. So I said to myself: hmmm... that was kinda tight, let me see if I can put it back on! I line it up, try to push it in and nothing happens, metal to metal contact. Ok, so maybe I didn't line it up correctly, lets try it again. I line it up, this time I tap both sides of the gear with my hands. Clank, clank! OH ****!! I was so scared that something had shifted; shouldn't with the rear gear, but what if?!!? That would mean an entire rebuild. So the third time, with my heart jumping out my mouth, I line it up and give it another good whack with my hands. Clank! And then it slipped in! YAY!!! So I thought if I did this once I could do it again.
I took out the rear stationary gear and noticed that when the clutch was done by TriPoint 50K ago, they did not put the oil O ring when they re-installed it. Not to mention that they did not tighten the flywheel nut to spec, and no lock-tite on it. It took just a few taps with the hammer and the nut came loose.
Well at least now, I know I did it right; I hope!
And after a week and a half, my eye is still black.
Oh well, at least it was done right
On a side note, the only thing that scared the crap outa me was when I removed the rear stationary gear. This bolts direclty to the back of the engine and is what the rear rotor turns on and eccentric shaft sits in. Well, I removed it because there was oil coming from around that, not just the rear main seal.
Anyways, I unbolt it and it comes off but not very easily. So I said to myself: hmmm... that was kinda tight, let me see if I can put it back on! I line it up, try to push it in and nothing happens, metal to metal contact. Ok, so maybe I didn't line it up correctly, lets try it again. I line it up, this time I tap both sides of the gear with my hands. Clank, clank! OH ****!! I was so scared that something had shifted; shouldn't with the rear gear, but what if?!!? That would mean an entire rebuild. So the third time, with my heart jumping out my mouth, I line it up and give it another good whack with my hands. Clank! And then it slipped in! YAY!!! So I thought if I did this once I could do it again.
I took out the rear stationary gear and noticed that when the clutch was done by TriPoint 50K ago, they did not put the oil O ring when they re-installed it. Not to mention that they did not tighten the flywheel nut to spec, and no lock-tite on it. It took just a few taps with the hammer and the nut came loose.
Well at least now, I know I did it right; I hope!
#13
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My dad and I whipped that together in about 10 minutes. It took longer to setup the arc welder and clean up afterwards then to actually make the thing.
Here is the drawing/dimensions that worked for me:
We did bend the sides a little held in a vice so that the bottom dimension was exactly 49 inches.
I then used a spring compressor to hold the engine to the bar. If you want a closer pic, let me know.
Attila
Here is the drawing/dimensions that worked for me:
We did bend the sides a little held in a vice so that the bottom dimension was exactly 49 inches.
I then used a spring compressor to hold the engine to the bar. If you want a closer pic, let me know.
Attila
Last edited by atihun; 03-01-02 at 11:47 AM.
#14
Thanks, much obliged for the dimensions. I have been eyeing the use of a spring compressor but wanted to do better than use 2x4s for the cross brace -complicated by my FD being snowed into the storage unit making measurements tough...
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