Damn, that looks awesome.

 

I've never really been interested in seeing how much power I can make on pump gas. It's basically the reason my motor lasted 8 years of racing while everyone else was blowing 1 or 2 a year. My general philosophy has always been that it'll cost the same either way. If you don't run race gas and try to make a lot of power you'll save a little money up front but you'll blow motors, have to get dirty rebuilding them, pay for the parts, your car will be out of commision and you can't run as much boost or be as fast as someone running race gas anyway. I guess it's that phrase, you get what you pay for : ). With that in mind I have two fuel systems in the car, one tank and pump for 116 and the OEM tank and a cosmo pump for pump gas.

So to actually answer your question I haven't the slightest idea sorry. I'd never run the car on pump gas at 17psi. 12psi max and just drive from point a to point b. On race gas I'll run about 24psi. During the last testing I was running about 20 and it was pretty amazing. A setup like that with lots of fuel delivery should be able to make 500hp on pump gas easily but I wouldn't if I were you. There's no honor to bragging about making XYZ hp on pump gas when your hands are greasy and you're asking someone to help pull a blown motor. Sorry I shouldn't try to preach.

As for the IC I don't remember right now but at the time I discussed it with Don Spears and it fit all of my expectations. Keep in mind my desires are to keep the stock lines and appearance of the car except for the tires which are hard to hide. I can't help myself but laugh at the really loud sounding and looking cars with funny body kits and stickers all over that run 12 and 13 second quarter miles. The image that comes to mind is one of the really loudmouth guys that talks a lot of crap and brags a lot but has a 3" *****. I'm sure we've all seen the type.

Kevin T. Wyum

 

Kevin T. Wyum, I have no clue who you are, but you kick ***.

 

Actually, Its not that I care so much about braging rights for a HP number. Its that I trying to build a daily driver that traps 130+mph in the 1/4 no matter if I'm at the track or on my way to work.

So far I'm up to 125mph traps. I'm not so worried about the engine. If it lasts a year I'm fine, TO ME its worth it. See, the way I view thigs is if your car can only produce the numbers at the track then they are race car numbers. My car performs the numbers every day....there for it SHOULD have a shorter life span.....but I'm ok with that HaHa

As for the ***** comment and all that....I'm hoping that wasnt directed toward me, cause you'd be way off base....my ***** is 13"

STEPHEN

 

The stock BOV rules all

 

Hehe, I'm sure your girlfriend/wife is happy that I'm wrong : P I agree with you on wanting it to perform like that on and off the track. That's why I advocate running race gas on the street or having a switching fuel system like mine, flip a couple switches and a couple seconds later you're running on VP C16. Flip em back and you're on pump gas. Of course the only important parts are as you stated, what's important to the owner, in this case you. We all have our opinions though and I really like to express mine to everyone : ).

Assuming we're not talking about using the car as a normal drive to work car it shouldn't be a big deal to run race gas on the street or even a 50/50 mix. You could buy a spare third gen after 4 or 5 years blowing motors instead of running race gas. Time to play with the kids.


Kevin T. Wyum

 

Yea, I actually drive mine to work but I'm considering just making it into a weekend car. Its just so hard to walk in the garage and pass up my FD for some beater haha

So to made sure I'm understanding you....are you saying you have your tank somehow divided and one tank holds race gas and the other holds pump gas and you switch between the 2?

STEPHEN

 

Two different tanks. There's a 10 gallon fuel cell in the spare tire area. There's a big SX pump for the race cell and a cosmo in the stock tank. So one switch controls which pump is on with check valves to prevent backflow before a Y junction. Then there's a servo controlled switch that changes the return line route. I have that on a seperate switch so I can purge lines and send fuel back to either tank for whatever reason.

Kevin T. Wyum

 

wow, thats a very creative setup man. I'm suprized the spare tire fuel cell holds 10 gallons.

Do you Y the lines together real close to the fuel rail that way when you switch to race gas you dont have a bunch of line of pump gas to go thru before the race gas gets to the rail?

Thats a pretty slick setup

STEPHEN

 

I found some higher resolution versions of those pictures I posted since they were hard to look closely at. Enjoy.








Kevin T. Wyum

 

How the hell did you do those pics???

Hmmm, its a nice setup for sure.

If you dont mind me asking what turbine wheel and a/r did you go with? Course I understand if you dont want to share

STEPHEN

 

VERY NICE!!!

 

if you're rebuilding the motor every one or two years then its pretty much already a race car. to me a daily driver is one you can depend on to drive everyday, w/o needing a backup car in case it's down for some reason.

 

By that standard there is no such thing as a daily driver turbo RX7

The best way to do it is have a spare engine and just swap it out over a weekend.

It doesnt matter what you do or how you drive....its its a turbo rotary its not a matter of "if" its a matter of "when". They ALL go and if I run mine 2x as hard then I only expect it to live half as long....as should everyone else.

A high performance turbo race car rebuilds thier engine after every race or two, not after every year
or two. Call up Ari and ask him how many miles he gets on his race engines before rebuild time....I'd imagine its around 2-20 miles

STEPHEN