What else do I need to build a dual oilcooler setup
#77
development
I've read only bad reports about the clamps...(the tool is rather expensive, iirc)
The reports are of hoses tearing under the barbed rib, due to improper use of the tool and improper placement of the band. Even when I talked to Silvr94r2, he said the bands weren't necessary (the shop he deals with builds some wicked fast cars). As you can see though, he did use clamps, but his car isn't running as of yet.
if anyone has success with the clamps please chime in
The real expensive tool (I've seen in aircraft wire harness fab - $1000+ for EMI shielding) by band-it had to be certified every 6 months but wasn't clamped on a large ribbed area like a barb.
The reports are of hoses tearing under the barbed rib, due to improper use of the tool and improper placement of the band. Even when I talked to Silvr94r2, he said the bands weren't necessary (the shop he deals with builds some wicked fast cars). As you can see though, he did use clamps, but his car isn't running as of yet.
if anyone has success with the clamps please chime in
The real expensive tool (I've seen in aircraft wire harness fab - $1000+ for EMI shielding) by band-it had to be certified every 6 months but wasn't clamped on a large ribbed area like a barb.
#78
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone know which side of the stock oil cooler, the line from the front cover goes to? I'm doing braided line, but I forgot which side is which and don't have my stock lines anymore.
#79
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I don't like steel braided lines. They are not needed. You can get nylon braided that handle more heat and have the same 350psi burst strength. I don't beleive we go over 100psi.
Sorry I don't remember the OEM thermastat but this may help (others):
Spring side = Send to oil cooler (from front cover)
Rod side = Return to block (via oil filter)
Sorry I don't remember the OEM thermastat but this may help (others):
Spring side = Send to oil cooler (from front cover)
Rod side = Return to block (via oil filter)
#80
Lives on the Forum
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
I don't beleive we go over 100psi.
#81
Searching for 10th's
iTrader: (11)
socketless hose
Originally Posted by rynberg
You are very wrong. At redline, the oil pressure should be in the 100-120 psi range. Spiking above this may and does occur, especially when jumping on the throttle when the engine oil is cooler.
One good discussion here:
http://forums.atlasf1.com/showthread.php?threadid=90374
It seems fairly common to use the socketless hose in high pressure fuel and oil systems.
I just spoke with a friend this evening that has used it for high pressure fuel lines, he tought it worked well - no leaks.
#82
King of the Duct Tape
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't even looked at the connections on the engine side, but can you attach the socketless hose ends to the fittings there? I have no idea if they're male/female or what, but all the hose ends on the website are female that I see.
#83
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by airborne
I haven't even looked at the connections on the engine side, but can you attach the socketless hose ends to the fittings there? I have no idea if they're male/female or what, but all the hose ends on the website are female that I see.
#85
development
most kits use these
These need either a crush washer or an o-ring...not sure which I'll use yet. I used an o-ring on the turbo feed line for the last two years with no issues.
Originally Posted by dubulup
adapter (front cover and oil pedestal)
FCM2245 metric adapter -10AN to 18mm X 1.5
$8.82 ea. x2 $17.64
FCM2245 metric adapter -10AN to 18mm X 1.5
$8.82 ea. x2 $17.64
#88
King of the Duct Tape
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its moving along. I got a picture from rallimike, the forum member who's setup I'm basing mine from -he shouldn't mind me posting it. here it goes, those are oil coolers on the bottom. The IC behind them, 2 custom griffin rads where the oil coolers are stock and then the AC condenser is laid flat...somewhere.
I'm doing it with a stock front end and rads from an R6 bike.
Oh, and I may end up using 2 coolers. rallimike couldn't find one in the size he wanted -wide enough i imagine- which is why he used two.
I'm doing it with a stock front end and rads from an R6 bike.
Oh, and I may end up using 2 coolers. rallimike couldn't find one in the size he wanted -wide enough i imagine- which is why he used two.
#89
development
Looks like a pretty neat set-up!
The FC cooler is pretty beast! Might have a look into that...which includes a T-stat. Malloy might be able to source rather cheap?!?!
The FC cooler is pretty beast! Might have a look into that...which includes a T-stat. Malloy might be able to source rather cheap?!?!
#90
King of the Duct Tape
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I flipped through dozens of pages of oil coolers at summit without much luck finding one ridiculously wide and 6-8in tall.
The only thing I know about the OCs in that setup is that they're Setrabs.
The only thing I know about the OCs in that setup is that they're Setrabs.
#92
King of the Duct Tape
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: PA
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2nd gen thread
Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"
The fittings may be -12 AN, there is a parts list there that lists reducers.
oh, and why the hell did they come with such a huge cooler?
Stock Oil cooler dimensions
Length (including endtanks) 22.5"
Length (core only) 19.75"
Height 4.5"
Width 2"
The fittings may be -12 AN, there is a parts list there that lists reducers.
oh, and why the hell did they come with such a huge cooler?
#93
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by dubulup
I used an o-ring on the turbo feed line for the last two years with no issues.
#94
development
Originally Posted by airborne
oh, and why the hell did they come with such a huge cooler?
Originally Posted by DamonB
I've done the same. I was concerned about using a crush washer since my adaptor is aluminum and I was concerned I may strip it when torqued. A rubber o-ring has sealed fine for a couple years now and doesn't require near as much torque on the fitting.
#95
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by airborne
Thanks, i bookmarked it and will just have to check back periodically.
are the 1/8 npt ports compatible with the hardware most gauges include? or do you need an adapter from HDR?
are the 1/8 npt ports compatible with the hardware most gauges include? or do you need an adapter from HDR?
-billy
#96
development
^good news!
just wanted to show some dirty install pics...I finally got some parts, and began the install...I only made three mounts (make all six for $20 in parts...which brings my total to $760) It's pretty study with enough bounce/give.
Although, I will have to change the (4) 90's on the coolers for 180's (which is a big change in loot) and I'll probably take DamonB's advice and move the left (outside) fitting(s) on the cooler to the bottom on the side, which will run to the driveside cooler.
I thought I'd be able to mount the cooler upside down, but I forgot to take into account the park lamps.
here is the outside mount (you can see the cooler slants a little back)
Then two on the inside
with the bumper
even though you can see only about a 1/3 of the rows thru the duct...there isn't much room for air to get around the cooler once inside. I'm excited.
jeeze my car looks filthy...I'll have to show some detailed pics once I finish the project.
just wanted to show some dirty install pics...I finally got some parts, and began the install...I only made three mounts (make all six for $20 in parts...which brings my total to $760) It's pretty study with enough bounce/give.
Although, I will have to change the (4) 90's on the coolers for 180's (which is a big change in loot) and I'll probably take DamonB's advice and move the left (outside) fitting(s) on the cooler to the bottom on the side, which will run to the driveside cooler.
I thought I'd be able to mount the cooler upside down, but I forgot to take into account the park lamps.
here is the outside mount (you can see the cooler slants a little back)
Then two on the inside
with the bumper
even though you can see only about a 1/3 of the rows thru the duct...there isn't much room for air to get around the cooler once inside. I'm excited.
jeeze my car looks filthy...I'll have to show some detailed pics once I finish the project.