if you don't create positive boost, there's no pressure for the BOV to release

silver,

if I buy you a set of injector o-rings and it fixes the problem will you pay double back?

These problems are 100% exactly what I was going through with bad/old/clogged injectors, which I swapped for some with unknown bad O-rings. I bought a new set of o-rings, and had the injectors cleaned and it all runs perfect now, no smoke and to fuel under the UIM...

PLEASE take my advice for your car, I have done this and gone through this before, everything you have described I had seen/done.

Thanks Theo, I went to Malloy today, dropped $100 [outrageous price] and got the O-rings + insulator [although I don't know where they install]. Anyways got 1 set of O-rings in on the secondaries, going to tackle the primaries tomorrow morning. I'll keep you posted

UPdate:

I pulled the injectors back out, found 1 of the o-rings was causing seepage when I put pressure on the rear primary injector. I went ahead and changed out all the O-rings (8 total) along with the insulator to the injectors.
I pulled the fuel filter out, swapped it out for a new one. I got rid of the tee hose for the FPR, connected it directly to the rat nest and connected the boost gauge hose to UIM directly
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9...iltercropp.jpg

Double checked all hoses, topped off fuel and coolant. I cranked the motor and I get the same results:
1. oil pressure hovered over 2.0 on the defi gauge
2. idle slightly better, but still erratic
3. fuel pressure steady at 36-37psi
4. A/F at 16.6 at idle, but between 14-15 whenever I rev the motor
5. I hear the turbo when I rev it higher, but I still cannot hear the BOV
6. Got a check engine light, but when I checked it, I think its coding 11 (IAT)?
7. Initally I got white smoke, once the engine warmed up after I revved it a couple of times, smoke turned to black

Here are some vids:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVPQXmvsaTc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rbgf1qvzb0c

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T4TUvfq2jo

After I got the check engine light reading, I tried to reset it by disconnect the ground and pressing the brakes for 30sec. Now the motor sounds like its running on 1 rotor again. Once the engine cools, I'll check out the plugs and see what it looks like.

Any other advise to go with to fix this thing?

would a faulty IAT cause these problem this time around? I am going to check the connection tomorrow, but hopefully this will fix some problems if not all

...

The IAT wasn't snapped in snug, so I plugged that in, reset the ECU and fully charged the battery.

Idle seems much better, I was able to get the car to idle to 100C with minimal smoke, it was very smoke until I got it warmed up slightly. Now I don't remember what the engine should sounds like at idle. Not sure if the turbo is probably spooling up [I'm in the process of buying another gauge from another board member] I can barely hear the BOV after multiple adjustments, I can't take it out for a spin since I don't have any plates for it.

Now a new thing, what temp does the rad fans turn on? I changed out the relay and fans, so this shouldn't have gone bad. If there is a possible air bubble in the system will the fans kick on when it hits a certain temp?

what is considered a hot ass temp to ruin the engine?

106+ c

If I have an air bubble in my coolant system, would that prevent the fans from kicking on?

no, they're on a thermoswitch, if they're not coming on its an electrical issue.

You probably won't hear your BOV in neutral with no load. Is this a stock ecu or Power FC car? 100 is fine, but at mentioned as temps creep above 105 to 110 it's not good. You can bring the fans on high by pushing the a/c button and cycling the fans to '4.'

White smoke, idle is fine now

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cp-RKsVKqkU


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-ZXtFcesgs

I let the engine idle up to 100c again, and the fans still didnt kick on.

GOOFDELLAFD3S. thanks for the advice, I tried turning the fan on high AC, but to no avail fans still not turning on [I did hear the compressor switch on though. I tried on heat as well, blows nice warm heat, but no movement.
Funny thing with this temp thing is what started me to take apart the car 5 years ago...fans wouldn't kick on. I swapped out both fans, thermoswitch [new from mazda], and upgraded to a koyo radiator....never ending problems

Any other ideas?

CORRECTION: there is no more white smoke when engine is warmed up

from re-watching the video, the stock oil pressure still seems high, although not sure if its malfunctioned or if the tee that I created for the stock and Defi sending unit is causing this.

Also does my idle seems high, its around 1500rpm when the engine is hot

any suggestions on how to power up the fan with the engine off, so I can make sure the relays and fan motors are running?

The relays are controlled by a few different sensors. If you want to verify they are working properly, you should pull them one at a time and go through the FSM test. As for the fans, just run power straight to them and verify they spin.

Do you know which colors does what on the wiring harness? I see 4 wires on the driver side fan; black/yellow/green/blue. I tried hooking black (-) with yellow(+) to the battery, it just sparked on the battery post, but didn't see any movement and I didn't want to keep it there long since it sparked up and I was afraid it would burn out the fan motor

Silver,

Glad you got your car back at least running properly. I hate to say I told you so, but then again I don't :D:D

Sorry about the O-Ring prices, that is steep as hell... But oh well...

Good luck with the beast, as far as the fans are concerned. have you probed for power at the connection plugs? How about the fuses, I hate to mention it but I spent 3 days trying to figure out why my car wouldn't start... Rumor has it you need fuel to start a car, I personally though it ran on hopes as dreams...

Thanks Theo,

SO far I have change out the thermosensor and thermostat, maybe that will fix something, I had also solder 4 new wire from the driver side fan to the harness in the bumper cover before the relays, I haven't done the passenger side fans yet. DAMN COLD outside now. Although I have my doubts on the fan motor being good, despite the fact I purchased new ones from Mazda 5 yrs ago. When the wiring was undone, I had tried to run the wire directly to the battery, yellow to +; black to -. It sparked, but no movement, I didnt hold it long because I was worried that may burn out the fan & I wasn't sure if those were the correct wires to try. I looked throughout the FSM, with the multimeter, but couldn't get a reading. [I may have hooked it up wrong].
As for you asking if I probed for power, can you instruct me or link me to the web on how to properly do this:scratch: ?

Just curious, have you checked your Map sensor yet?

what problems would arise if the Map sensor is busted?

As of now, I think my motor is running fine, I will need to find someone with an FD to test drive it and see. I haven't driven the car since 2005 so i forgot how everything is.

Here are the rest of the problems I have left before I send to get emissions and paint shop for kit and re-spray.

1. rad fans.
As of yesterday, I went around the cooling fan relay harness and found that 2 of the 3 of the plugs were swapped wrong, I guess the previous own didn't plug those in correctly, but due to the age of the car, the harness is pretty much broken down. However, I am now able to switch the fan on using the A/C button, so that is a somewhat big accomplishment. I also ground all the green/black, blue/green, violet/pink wires and the relays all click, so they are all working. I tested this morning to see if it kicks on at 95*c...no good. I can either conclude its the harness or wiring, I need to look over all the schematic once over to verify. I do notice that one side of the harness has 3 wire [relay side], the other side has 4. The thermosensor was swapped for a FC and I changed the thermostat for shits and giggles.

2. idling
I notice that my idle seems pretty high, when its cold its about 1500rpm, warm-hot its at 1200rpm. I haven't messed with the idle screw just yet, but its the next thing to try.

3. oil pressure
When i start the car, my defi gauge alarms are going off...beeeeeeeeeeeeeeep. I have to sit there everytime to adjust the warning set. Now what I am wondering why my pressure is reading so high. The stock gauge, although inaccurate, is pegged at startup and as it heats up, still sits at the high mark. The defi reading is at 1.2 kPa, I have to lower it to about .5kPa for the beeping to stop.

That about sums it up, just need someone to help take a look...

silvercvic,

Have you checked to see that there is absolutely no leaks on the intake (I might have missed it while scanning through this thread), and any piping associated with the intake (lines going to air pump, and the stock BOV?, etc.) and especially the aftermarket BOV? The vacuum gauge shows that you are running the intake at near atmospheric pressure when hovering at 0 psi, perhaps the aftermarket BOV is stuck open. For a quick check, just remove the blue ring off the BOV and place your hand over the BOV opening to see if it pulls vacuum/changes idle, etc.

One time the vacuum line popped off my map sensor and it ran like your car sounds. I thought I cracked an apex seal. I didnt even do a compression check, I just parked it in the garage. When I had the money together to fix the car, I did the compression check and all was good. My friend Chuck saw that the vacuum line had just popped off the map sensor, we plugged it back on and walla. It was in the garage for 3 months...lol. This was when I was just getting to know my car...hahhaha.

Anyways a bad map sensor will cause your car to run like shit because:

From wiki:

The Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is one of the sensors used in an internal combustion engine's electronic control system. Engines that use a MAP sensor are typically fuel injected. The manifold absolute pressure sensor provides instantaneous manifold pressure information to the engine's electronic control unit (ECU). The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion (see stoichiometry). A fuel-injected engine may alternately use a MAF (mass air flow) sensor to detect the intake airflow. A typical configuration employs one or the other, but seldom both.

MAP sensor data can be converted to air mass data using the speed-density method. Engine speed (RPM) and air temperature are also necessary to complete the speed-density calculation. The MAP sensor can also be used in OBD II (on-board diagnostics) applications to test the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve for functionality, an application typical in OBD II equipped General Motors engines.

That just about sums it up.

But your car just sat so I don't think it went bad, but you never know.

Good Luck.

Ben