Your engine isn't running right and you're trying to diagnose it. The last thing I would do is throw in another variable and possibly compound the problem.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Did the sequential system work before? If so, you have nothing to gain at this point by simplifying or eliminating it.

bump....

I just finished putting everything back together [injectors, new hoses, UIM, etc] last night as well as wire up my fuel pressure gauge. I priming the fuel pump, although I need to see if its working properly...the gauge didn't give a reading, this may be due to the FPG I am using uses a electronic sending unit rather than mechanical. Anyways, I wanted to make sure there wasn't any leaks where the hoses meet and where I teed the lines to add the FPG sending unit.

Last thing to do is top off the coolant, then I can crank the motor. Hopefully all is well.

One thing I did find during my research period is that my BOV [greddy type RS] is set at GREDDY stock setting, I believe soft. I came across the manual and it states this may cause irregular idle, would that be a cause for my funky idle??

Doubt it. You could pull the thing off and it would run fine. Hell, you could run off just the intake elbow. The only thing I can think of that they are talking about is when you have an AFM and if unmetered air enters the intake via an open BOV.

So I tightened the BOV to hard, filled with some coolant (it may have some air, but wasn't planningo n running it long).
I cranked the motor after new cleaned out injectors, replaced some cracked hoses and re-routed my boost gauge hose to T off the FPR...

I don't remember how the 13B idles, doesn't sound as rough as what I had a couple weeks back, but I got smoke from the exhaust and now the engine bay. The video I will post below, but I don't what happened...the smoke is all coming from the turbo area, the air around there is super hot despite most of the engine area; UIM, IC pipes was pretty cool to touch.
Smells like burning oil, but I found a tiny pool of gas on the floor directly below the firewall/turbo area. Anyone got any ideas for this problem? Do you think the o-rings on the injectors are bad? I replaced my old injectors with a cleaned out set that I purchased from a member on the board, he said the injectors came out of FD motor that was getting a LS1 swap and had about 3k miles(??) but they weren't OEM.

In case you are wondering, the gauges are [center pod] oil pressure/boost(kPa)/water temp; steering wheel pod is A/F and A-pillar is fuel pressure.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFyO5dvQ568


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0spHZThz6rU

Is there anyway to check all the fuel lines for leakage without the UIM on?

So this morning, I decided to see if the o-rings had failed or there was a leak somewhere along the fuel lines. I jumped the fuel pump from diagonistic, heard the fuel pump running, but no leak no puddles.

Anyone have any suggestions why there would be a puddle [1 toliet sheet size] of gas on the floor under the turbo area? I'm 98% sure all rat nest hoses were put back in place properly, would this have caused a fuel problem?

fuel pressure steady @ 39psi

Are you sure the inectors sealed correctly? Did you ever try jumping the pump with the uim off? Always should when doing injectors. Let the pump run for atleast 5 mins to make sure there's no leaks.

Injector grommets and orings always replace when touched, that's my mado.

Fuel could be pooling between the LIM and block before leaking down. Why did you put aftermarket injectors in there? If they have a different flow rate, the tune will need to be adjusted.

I got stock injectors that were cleaned out.

So I went home today to fire up the motor and light of everything...no puddle of gas, and less smoke, but there is still smoke coming from the turbo area and from the exhaust. Idle is seems a little rough still and stock oil pressure gauge is pegged along with the damn Defi oil pressure warning buzzing the entire time. I'm afraid to drive it around in case something catches on fire or I break something major.

The other thing that bothers me is that I am not sure if the turbo is spooling, at idle, I was playing the BOV and adjusting that, but to no hope, I never heard it release. I did let the temp get up 90C and did some light revving. And again, the turbo area is piping hot and smoking. I'll post a video below.

This car is driving me nuts, any help is appreciated.

smoking from exhaust
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5a-XXqdbzg


engine bay with a little throttle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUD2KLU6vlA


engine bay after shutoff. Turbo smoking; UIM pretty cool to touch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqXMrs-flnY


Gauge reading about 2-3mins of cold startup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcEP1lESIiM

why does ur fuel light is on when u have the gas
why dont u do smething with your ecu like try to unplug it and put it back or something
i mite be wrong... but if it doesnt do any harm than try it

coz i am pretty sure nun of ur gauges are reading rite numbers

dont know if this has been covered but it sounds like you have an exhaust leak on your downpipe that would explain the smoke

From within the turbo area or the exhaust?? If for the turbo area, I'm going to let it sit idle while I close monitor it..haha with a fire extinguisher. I am leaning towards the fact that I took the fuel lines out, I did have a lot of fuel spill over during the 2 weeks I had it apart, I would have hoped all the gas evaporated, but given the fact it pooled up around the area, that could be the culprit. The reason I may be saying that is when I initially started the motor up about a month ago from a long rest and the motor was running like crap, that area never smoked up, just the exhaust. I posted videos of it on the first page of this thread.

What bothers me is that my engine is idle so high and my boost/vaccum may be out of whack..well according to my gauges. I'm going to try a ECU reset [disconnect battery and pressing the brake pedal for 30sec] maybe that could reset everything. Also when the engine warms up, it starts to lean out, that is another concern.

it should start to lean out as it warms up.
do you have a restrictor in the turbo feed line?
is your fuel pressure 39 psi at idle with the vacuum hose connected? if so thats too high unless you intentionally set it that high, but ideally at idle with the vacuum hose connected it should be closer to 32ish psi. without it connected you want it at either 40 or 43.5 psi unless you intentionally set it higher.
do your gauges have a mechanical or digital sender?

I don't think I have a restrictor on the turbo...how do you tell? I'm still learning everything about this car. As for anything else, I'm trying to put everything stock as possible before I do anymore engine upgrades. Haha and drive it to the paint shop. As for the fuel pressure, its at 39 with the fuel pump jump and not idle and I do have the vacuum hose to the fpr. I'm glad you posted this because the pressure sits about 32psi at engine idle.
I did, however, reset the ecu with the brake pedal and fuel pressure was axting all funky...sitting around 20psi. Could be cause I am low on gas, gonna put some gas in and hopefully that resolves that problem.
As for the sending units, they are all with a digit sending unit. Can you answyer this? I have the boost sending unit teed off the uim and fpr, according to the defi instructions, is that correct setup? Or should I cap that off and run the hose directly to the uim?

I may have missed it but, did you drain all the gas out before you first started the car with the new injectors?



John

Yes 99% of the gas was drained through the drain plug, there was probably a little leftover along with some in the hard lines. I did add about 5gal of fresh gas, along with some marvels miracle oil. I ran it with the old injectors and that gave me the rough idle with only 1 rotor. I since then burned off the old gas or was pretty much evaporated when I changed out the injectors which is why I am probably out of gas in the tank. I had done a compression test 120psi front/rear and changed out the plugs. Motors funs like crap still but I believe both rotors are utilized after the injector swap. I haven't taken the car on the road yet.. scared of breaking something or making matter much worse.

I forgot you're on the stock turbos so disregard the restrictor question.
In regards to the boost guage sensor it's fine but as with the MAP sensor I would want the FPR having its own source for boost vacuum without anything else t'd into that line. From the UIM is just fine, I'm assuming you're using the nipple from the top of the turbo-side of the UIM? Its what I use. I'm thinking its smoking due to the oil pressure. When the oil pressure is too high it can be pushed past the oil seals in the turbos causing it to smoke like that, or alternatively, it can be from a leak on the oil feed/return lines not being sealed properly. if its leaking onto the exhaust from outside the turbo (which is what it looks like) it'll burn off like it is. Try retightening the bolts to the oil feed and return line.

did you change the fuel filter? if not do it, if so make sure the wiring to the pump is good. If you're fuel pressure is low there's either a restriction in the line (blocked, kinked, bent), the gauge isn't reading correctly (I had a broken one), or the fuel pump isn't working correctly.

the BOV: http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/bovfaq.html
it gives you a basic description of how it works. We don't have to worry about poor idle because we don't have an air flow meter (maf). Its a good link and is mostly directed to the all-trac crowd, but its useful for learning as well.

I'll go ahead and re-route that hose so the FPR get its own like you recommended.

I'll need to look at the FSM go figure out where the oil feed/return lines are, I'll keep you posted on that progress.

I have not changed out the fuel filter, seems like a PITA to do. But I'll do it since it needs it anyways

there are a few write ups for easier fuel filter replacement, but yes, that needs to be done.

you might need new crush washers for the oil feed/return lines, they help create the seal. hopefully you used them in the first place, if not you'll need to order them

I don't understand.

- marvel mystery oil does more harm than good. it's lies, snake oil, whatever you wanna call it.

- your turbo is not going to spool at idle. stop looking at that boost gauge because it may be screwed up. get a working vacuum gauge if you want to measure vacuum.

- your fuel leak didn't just go away by itself, you should get that straight before anything else rather than assuming it is ok

- the exhaust and turbos are supposed to get really hot, this is nothing out of the ordinary. the smoke is probably from something leaking onto the exhaust side of the turbos, like fuel or oil. you need to take shit off and get your eyes on the area smoking and determine what it is.

- i still think your running problem is ignition related. did you test the plugs off the block? get a timing light of some kind on each lead? although really, it seems to just be idling high and running ok now with the new injectors.

Sorry meant to say they were OEM

I'm just wondering if my turbo is busted, If I throttle it a couple of times, how would I be able to tell if the turbo is working? On other tubo cars I've seen ppl work on, the BOV normally indicates the turbo spooling.



From your feul leak comment, I'm wondering if the I pulled the UIM off and activiated the fuel pump by jumping the diagonistic, would the injectors receive gas? I'm asking this because if I do that and nothing leaks from the hoses to the rails, could this be a good way to tell if the injector o-rings leak?

[plugs are new, I purchased stock 7s and 9s, would you think the wires or coil packs are no good?