Thanks alexdimen, I haven't had the chance to get to the rear rotor with an open valve since the front Lead rotor was a pain to get in, I did not remove the valve, simply just tape it open to get what was on the video.

However, I just remove the valve and there is barely a bounce, I'm sure it can't get a reading since there is no pressure getting to the gauge, hmmmm...

So if my compression is good, and I replace the spark plugs and clean out the injectors...is there any other problems that could occur that causes the white smoke? Would putting in new plugs and injectors elminate my problems and be ready for the road? I know that white smoke is normally caused by coolant burning in the combustion chamber of an engine, do you think my gaskets have failed?

I didn't read the whole thread, so forgive me if any of this has been covered before.

(1) Was the block sitting for 5 years with the same coolant in it?

(2) Did you try the champagne test? ie start car with rad cap off and watch for a steady stream of small bubbles as the car warms up.

No offense, this thread is long, I admit it...lots to read/watch, but yes I did drain out the old coolant, flushed it with the drain open, and refilled it with fresh coolant..roughly 60/40 mix. When I started the car, the cap was off and during idle it would bubble out of the funnel and I kept pouring some in. If I took the funnel off the neck, it would gurgle out coolant, so I had to really force the funnel on the filler neck to keep from spill out.
Now the odd thing was the manual said stock coolant levels are about 2.3gal, I figured with a bigger radiator [koyo], it would much more, probably 3-4gal. I filled maybe about 2gal and the temps did hit about 90celsius, and the stock temp gauge never peaked nor did the alarm go off.
So in essence, the champange test wasn't succeed since the bubbles were huge and overflowing. Hope that helps

Don't lose too much sleep over this. Just make sure your comp pulses are good and put the new plugs in when you get them.

A rich condition, incomplete combustion and many other things can cause whitish smoke. Water is also a product of the combustion process so it's normal to see some steam at startup. You'd know if it was coolant; it smells very sweet. If you want to compare, you could heat up some antifreeze on hot metal outside.

Also, make sure you use distilled water to dilute your coolant if you haven't. I don't know if you've ever done a drain-fill on this coolant system but I found it to be a tough one. I had to run the engine fully warmed up for a while with the fill cap open to get all the air out.

So the answer to question 1 above is 'yes?'

Also, google 'Lisle funnel' it makes it much easier to burp the cooling system of air when used properly.

1. yes the coolant was sitting in the car for 5yrs. However, I did drain and flush out the system before I had started the car up again. Are you suggesting that I may have some of my water line rusted ro corrupt?

I have the Lisle funnel, damn thing drove me crazy cause it wouldn't seal right. If I let my hands off the funnel, it would spill over. I had to hold it the entire time with a good amount of pressure to keep it from leaking out.

Thanks for the encouraging words.

As with anything, these plugs are different from what I have worked with in the past. How do you gap these properly?

if they are the proper plugs, you dont need to gap them.
if they look the same as the ones you put picture of, youll be good to go.

So I got the new plugs, ran a compression test on rear rotor [with schrader pressed], installed new plugs and here are the results...doodoo

01.rear rotor compression...looks good :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R_0NJWewyw


02. after installing new plugs - gauge readings
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKQ8Qy_Tuoc


03. after installing new plugs - engine smoke
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrtY4QEXrPA

what next?? dirty injectors?

Is there a possibility that you hook up the boost gauge backwards? Like the terminals because it is doing what it should like if it was reading vacuum.

What's that smoke smell like? Fuel? Make your eyes water?

I might make a last ditch effort before taking off the UIM and see if you're getting proper spark by putting an timing light or inline tester on there. Those new plugs may also be fouled now too if you have a stuck injector and ran it for long.

At least your compression is good... and if it's an open injector, you can probably just have them all cleaned and tested for a few bucks. I recommend this guy: http://cleaninjectors.com/

The Defi gauge only hooks up one way, so I'm pretty sure its not backwards, the reading is in Kpa not psi so its all funky for the conversation. I'll look it over now, but I'm almost positive its installed correctly. Will keep you posted.

The smoke does smell like fuel, like I smoke too many cigarettes...

Unfortunately I don't have a timing gun so its something I can't do right now. So I'll search through the manual and the forum to see how to yank out those injectors, and hopefully I didn't mess up those plugs, took a week to get here, hate to get another set. Just hate to de-pressurize my fuel by starting the motor up again and yanking the relay out, don't want to mess anything else up in there.

And thanks for the link, how are they compared to RC engineering?

Last night as I was de-pressurizing the fuel to yank the injectors out, when I had the car running on idle with the circuit relay pulled out, car seems to idle less rough, still some bouncing, but the turbo gauge was reading vacuum at .5 kpa. There was still lots of smoke and even though it filled up my garage , the smell wasn't so strong

any ideas on this? BTW I started to yank out the injectors, only to find out there was already a stripped screw on an injector cover

Both sets of plugs can be glass bead blasted to un-foul them. Any machine shop should have a bead blaster. Maybe your local NAPA machine shop? Just make sure to flush all the glass beads out with brakleen.

No different than RC.

how do you pull out the rats nest to get the primary injectors out? I've unbolted all the injector covers, the fuel rails, and oil fill neck. The nest moves, but only a couple of cm, but still cannot get access to the injectors to pull them out

should be four screws through the nest...

Hell, while you are in there get rid of it :)

I would love to, but how?

look up the simplified sequential or non-sequential conversion, buy the block off plates and new silicone vacuum hoses, and get working.

You can see the four holes for the solenoid rack bolts here. You'll need to take off the coil rack first.

I was reading the thread on the conversion to non and wasn't sure if its emissions legal. Since my car has been off the road for so long, first thing it need to get a license plate is an emission test...unless someone can tell me otherwise.

I am not the person to ask about emissions legallity, I don't have to worry about it and all of my emissions stuff is gone.

It has been a while since I pulled out my primary injectors but I know it can be done without taking out the rat's nest. I think I used a long needle nose pliers to pull them out. Good luck:icon_tup:



John