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what do I need for a basic rebuild?

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Old 04-20-09 | 07:48 PM
  #1  
BC-FD3S's Avatar
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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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what do I need for a basic rebuild?

I suspect a side seal has gone on my engine since I have only 5 solid puffs when I crank the engine by hand.

I have it out of the car right now, and am going to rebuild it myself.

Who do you suggest I buy the seal kit from, and how much will it run me?

I want to do all the coolant seals, oil control rings, side seals, corner seals and apex seals along with whatever else I will need to replace.

I am running a TD06-20g, so what apex seals are recommended? Just 2 piece mazda seals?

Thanks
Old 04-21-09 | 12:10 AM
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ALS seals are known to just bend if you blow your motor.
You will blow something else before you are able to break RA super seals.
Some people will agree that Atkins or Mazda seals are better, but they will destroy your housings, irons, and turbo when they go.

Out of them all, in my opinon, go with RA Super seals or ALS seals. The RA seals are also cheaper then any other kit out there.

Get the basic kit, it will cover your needs for a rebuild minus the side seal, which you do not know for a fact is blown yet.
Old 04-21-09 | 01:24 AM
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Ya, I don't know they are gone for sure. I am having a hard time deciding if I want to rebuild it or part it out and buy a JDM engine from a vendor on here.

The reason I suspect it's a side seal, is that I get two solid pshht sounds on the front rotor and one kind of half assed one. It's there, but very faint.

If it was an apex seal (which I don't think it is unless it's chipped off to the side) I would assume I would get one good pssht and two bad ones, right? Since a blown apex would in sense join two chambers together. What are the symptoms of a cracked corner seal?

Could it be the possibility that it may be stuck?

The thing that i just don't get, is that the engine ran perfectly fine when it was in the car, I only had pulled it to do a nice clean single turbo swap. It didn't have hot start issues or anything.

I just can figure it out....
Old 04-21-09 | 02:55 AM
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When I built my last motor, I could barely hear any pssshts at all on the engine stand, but when I installed it then put 100 miles on it, I checked its compression and it was 100PSI on both rotors.

Blowing a side seal is very rare, especially given your circumstance, it ran well before you removed it.

If you do end up having to rebuild it, I'd do it yourself so you can port it.
Old 04-21-09 | 07:17 AM
  #5  
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Build it yourself and use Mazda OEM seals. Don't bother with a used engine - they're good enough to use as a core and even then it's a crapshoot. If you find that some of the apex seal grooves are worn or possibly even damaged, you can have the rotors milled to accept 3mm seals.
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