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what to do to the fd?

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Old 05-05-06, 01:22 AM
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what to do to the fd?

just starting this thread to get ideas and advice about what to do with my 93, im not sure if i wanna stay with twins for the intown driving, or go single, or switch to nonsequential, someone tell me the difference there please, and suspension needs done cause its to low in the front for the 19s, and is rubbing really bad, passenger fender is already beyond repair as far as the lip goes, anyone got any ideas for somthing hight and dampening adjustable for a decent price?, i was thinking tein drift coilovers but those are spendy, but yea, figured this would be a good thread for me to get info and for other people in my posistion that arent quite sure what route to take with their build, and need suggestions, all input would be great thanks
Old 05-05-06, 01:57 AM
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read the stickies

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Old 05-05-06, 02:18 AM
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yea searching for anything takes years in this place, lol ive already spent a good deal ove time searching so figured id try starting a thread to see how that helped
Old 05-05-06, 11:05 AM
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You should take a look at the BNR stage 3 twins. You can get good power (400hp+)and still a twin setup.
Old 05-05-06, 11:30 AM
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Input 1: More periods, fewer commas.

Input 2: 19's are damn big rims. 18s are much more reasonable.

Input 3: Provide budget, goals for the car, and driving experience. Most folks do best building up slowly and getting to know the car well after every mod.

Dave
Old 05-05-06, 11:49 AM
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Yep. I've searched these forums and found loads of information. Maybe you should do the same. If you're too lazy to search the forums for information, you're probably too lazy to take good care of your car.

Last edited by seanbrowning; 05-05-06 at 11:58 AM.
Old 05-05-06, 12:06 PM
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You shouldn't have a problem with 19s with proper offsets and tire sizing. The problem is that people buy wheels and tires without knowing what they're doing. As far as what you should do with the car, I suggest you reread the FAQ thread.

You can also feel free to search using the terms "sequential" and my username. You will find several threads debating the merits of seq vs non-seq vs single turbo.
Old 05-05-06, 12:53 PM
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'Yep. I've searched these forums and found loads of information. Maybe you should do the same. If you're too lazy to search the forums for information, you're probably too lazy to take good care of your car."

Well Said



Do more research, it helps
Old 05-06-06, 04:36 AM
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is that rice i smell?

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ok first, im not lazy, i take very good care of my car . it has alota things the previouse retarded *** owner fucked up, so get off my *** at least im trying to learn and do it in a timely fasion. that said driving skills are good, my last car was an 03 mach 1 mustang, fun as hell. budget limited monthly, but if it takes a year and a half to do what i want, then it takes that long, goals, around 550-600 tops, i thought about running a t3/t4 hybrid and keeping it around 10 psi untill i get the time and money to pull the motor apart and but the 3mm apex seals in, lightweight rotars, and a 9 1/2 pound flywheel. i can get the turbo itself for 250, i just need to find the single turbo kit (manifold, downpipe, wastegate, exc.) shouldnt be to hard to find one for sale in this forum. right now tho my car keeps stalling when i push the cluth in and hit the brake to stop at a light, almost like the clutch is slipping and putting stress on the engine. that and i can smell the clutch slipping, so that and prolly ujoints are getting replaced this weekend. lol oh and the 19's are staying i love those rims, and they came on the car so, ill find a way to make the fronts stop rubbing, pretty sertain it just needs the suspension adjusted, but anway, thanks for all the help it is all apreciated
Old 05-06-06, 06:45 AM
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I have run into the problem you are having with the car stalling when you push in the clutch at low speeds before. It was not on my FD, but on a 98 Eclipse GSX I was test driving. I do not remember what exactly cause the problem, but I think it had something to do with a vacuum line. Instead of capping it, he just let it vent and that was causing the problem. Hopefully that will direct you in the right direction.
Old 05-06-06, 09:55 PM
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yea i was told possibly apex seal even tho ground zero motorsports here in oregon soposidly put a mazda reman in it, and that should only have like 6,000 tops on it, but im apout to just sell my other project save up and put a 20b or a ls2 in the ****** cause its pissing me off, im taking it to get looked at by someone that knows a little more about these then i do tomorow sometime, but if anywone knows were i can get a 20b short block that i can get started with and lighten the rotors, and get the housings bridged and doweld and anything else that needs done to make a fairly reliable short block let me know, alright thanks again, but lot to do so im out,
Old 05-06-06, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bosscobra
yea i was told possibly apex seal even tho ground zero motorsports here in oregon soposidly put a mazda reman in it, and that should only have like 6,000 tops on it, but im apout to just sell my other project save up and put a 20b or a ls2...
Do you realize how much money, time and knowledge it takes to do a 20B swap? A lot in case you were wondering.
Old 05-07-06, 03:45 AM
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i dont know how much money, as far as time goes, well 13b pluss another rotor, and a computer to tune individule rotots because the center one in the 20's run lean, but i dont know a hole lot thats why i started this thread to get people ideas and opinions on what would work best for my situation, right now i think i just need to start building up a 13b, and build it to withstand around 20 psi boost from a single turbo, not sure what turbo to go with, so any suggestions there would help, i was thinking t3/t4 but too common, but i can get it for 250 with a stage 4 exaust wheel, so anyoone looking to get rid of some lightend rotors and a good set of housings let me know.
Old 05-07-06, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bosscobra
i dont know how much money, as far as time goes, well 13b pluss another rotor, and a computer to tune individule rotots because the center one in the 20's run lean, but i dont know a hole lot thats why i started this thread to get people ideas and opinions on what would work best for my situation, right now i think i just need to start building up a 13b, and build it to withstand around 20 psi boost from a single turbo, not sure what turbo to go with, so any suggestions there would help, i was thinking t3/t4 but too common, but i can get it for 250 with a stage 4 exaust wheel, so anyoone looking to get rid of some lightend rotors and a good set of housings let me know.


Yeah, good luck with that. If you're going 20B, I would just throw my money in a fire now, it would probably be a lot more fun. That is a rediculously expensive project.

But in all seriousness, you're better off doing a V8 swap if you want to do a swap, its a 495834587345 times easier especially now with Hinson(http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/). Go check that out, they have a kit and also check out http://www.torquecentral.com.

GL.
Old 05-07-06, 08:28 PM
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yea right now this hole car seems like a money pit, i prolly will go with a ls2 vette motor, but i bought the car for the sole purpouse of its different then everything else around my area, i like the rotory, just not as a daily driver, if i could build a reliable 13b and still get around 450-550 hp id go that rout, but right now it seems like i can build a 500 hp ls2 for same or less money, and its gona be damn near bullitproof, if i do keep the rotory for awile tho, what needs to be done when romoving the air pump? and what single turbo should i go with?
Old 05-07-06, 09:48 PM
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Just do nothing to it.
Old 05-07-06, 11:46 PM
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No no, sell it...and stay in school!
Old 05-08-06, 01:35 AM
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this thread was made so i could get helpfull opinions about what to do to the fd, not some lame *** opinion from your lazy *** telling me to sell it or stay in school, schools not helping me get my car done, and if everytime a 7 owner had a major problem and just decided to sell their car this forum would be useless because then wed all be driving somthing different that didnt have problems, but that you see every day, sorry but that anoyes me cause thats the reason im in the mess i am now, cause some dumbass thought oh im gona do this **** to this car, then couldnt figure out how to do it right so he "just sold it" after putting everything together half assed, so heres an idea sell your 7 and by a civic or somthing more suited to your personality because your just not worthy
Old 05-08-06, 01:56 AM
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From the little research I have done the lt1 and ls1 swaps make some good power for the money. You will have to mod your hood for the ls1 and ls2 motors to fit right. I think its kinda sad though to take out the rotary power that made these cars so cool and put one of the most common motors in the world into it. Just my two cents. Best thing you can do is just slow down with the whole project. Find out whats wrong with the car first. If the engine needs rebuilt than look for a good shop in your area or buy a 13b tt crate and swap it in. Depending on the milage you might want to have the turbos rebuilt and the injectors as well. Anything over 100k can give you problems. After putting a 300zx tt together from the ground up I find the hardist thing about working on these cars is being scared to break something. Get a factory service manual and learn something. You will fell great about it when its all said and done.
Old 05-08-06, 06:58 PM
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yea right now im priceing everything for the signle conversion, i have an aftermarket hood already, it should clear an ls1, but im pricing both options of getting a new street port short block with bigger apex seals, going single, and getting a higherflowing intake with the upgraded fuel pump and bigger injectors, i already have a power fc, and a box that looks like can be pluged into the power fc, and then a laptop pluged into that, so i gota email apexi and ask for a wireing diagram and the wires that plug into it, but if i stick with the rotary i might as well get the lighter flywheel, and stage 3 clutch while i have it apart, and the tranny needs rebuilt as well, if i go ls1 i can get a complete tranny/engine pullout with harness and computer for 3500, and then get the hinson ls1 kit, and would have somthing more reliable and cheaper to maintain, if this was just my toy, id build the **** out of the rotory for the main purpouse of it is part of the car that makes it cool and unique, but i drive it every day it has to be built reliably, and a v8 gives me reliability with power, and i read that they acually give the car a better front to rear weight balance when its all said and done
so who knows, its summer so i have my motorcycle to ride if the 7 takes a ****, so now its all about trying to save money and sell other car parts i have laying around
Old 05-08-06, 09:01 PM
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I am slowly in the process of adding mods to my FD. Of course it's all bolt-on stuff but I don't have a lot of miles on mine and I want to stay with the stock seq. twins for as long as I can and make the most power out of them. When and if the engine blows I will debate the pros and cons over the big single turbo option or the ls1 option. I actually had a discussion with some of the forum members here over dinner this past weekend. I was almost diehard set on the ls1 but after talking with those guys Saturday night I believe I'll do more research before I just committ to one or the other. So I understand your dilemma.

Oh and don't worry about all the flamers on here. Most of them can't wait for a post to pop up so they can flame and rant . Just give those guys a little bit of
Old 05-14-06, 04:41 AM
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anyone know if theres a difference between the main harness of an automatic and a 5 speed?




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