I am thinking basically stock specs. And who did it for you?

 

Pineapple Racing is who did mine, I did a slight port and stage 2 oil mods. But, there base rebuild is something like $2795.00! You cannot beat that with a stick, and these guys are awesome to work with. Rob Golden is a rotary master and very helpful with any questions you may have...

 

What do you mean by stock specs? A motor built back to "stock" condition could cost anywhere from ~$1500 to over $7k. It depends on how many new parts the rebuild uses and the builder's labor charge.

My local mechanic won't rebuild a new motor with used rotor housings, and I agree with that. New housings list for about $700, dealer cost is about $500 EACH. Things like that can obviously add to the cost of a motor.

If you are going to get the motor rebuilt from a remote shop and shipped to you, I would use Pettit Racing or Mazdatrix.

 

Kevin Landers did a great job on my rebuild. I sent it from WA to TN and it was still only $2200.00 or somethin like that. I got a street port as well. Hes a great guy to, always nice. Shipping was like $400-500 out of that price.

 

came out close to 6K including labor and small miscellaneous parts.

 

I can do a stock rebuild on a non-blown 13brew block for $1500, with you covering actual shipping costs which are usually $200-400 depending on your location relative to TN.

 

$880. Myself .

(This was a complete overhaul on my vert with all new seals/gaskets/bearings etc)

 

I checked your site, I thought you weren't doing anymore work until further notice since you were booked solid? Are you taking them again?

 

Who's overhaul kit did you buy?

 

$124 rebuild

I just rebuilt my vert motor, I only paid around 120 for mazda parts (coolant seals/ front & rear main seals). Also, $4 for a roll of gasket material. Most parts are usually re-useable.

 

My builder charges $1500 for labor (no porting) plus materials and parts

Which includes lapping the plates, cranking the engine (multiple heat cycles over 2-4 hours over 3-5 day period). This is to make sure engine is in good running condition.

 

mazda oem, which is in my opinion your best bet for motor internals. this was about 1.5 yrs ago, so of course prices have went up. also, as a shop owner i was able to get the kit at shop cost.

 

About A Month Ago I Went To Pensacola And Helped Dale Clarke, And Another Gentleman Install A Motor Into A 2nd Gen. The Motor Had Been Built And Assembled By Kevin Landers(rotary Ressurestion) I Believe, Anywho The Motor From An External View Was Beautiful. It Turned Over The First Try With Very Minimal Smoking,(normal) And Ran Beautifully. So, In My Perspective I Believe He Appears To Do A Nice Job With His Motors. I Also Know From First Hand That Pineapple Is Very Great As Well....

 

RotaryResurrection...Please share with us how it is possible to do a rebuild for $1500 when just the cost of the rotor seals and a gasket kit run $1200-$1400 for FD's. My prices are of course of us guys who are not part of MazdaComp or get shop prices....just straight purchases from MazdaTrix or Malloy Mazda.

I can see how GoodFellaFD3S did his for $880 since the rebuild kit was for a vert, and I understand the kits for them are less expensive than for FD's...even before you include his shop price discount.

 

Because lots of parts are usually re-useable.

 

Seals and gaskets should not be reused! Period.

How many motors have you gone through? Does that mean that Bi-State re-uses internal engine seals?

 

Animosity, Super!

Inner coolant seals can sometimes be re-used. Outer coolant seals always need to be replaced. Front and rear main seals should be replaced. Oil seals can sometimes be re-used w/inspection. Apex seals/springs can be re-used w/inspection. I make alot of gaskets for my own motors. Dowel orings, can use generic. Oil pump/chain can be re-used w/inspection.

This is a inexpensive good rebuild. If someone wants to pay big dollar for all new parts, good for them.

The only time I had problems with my motor was with the older Hurley seals (4 years ago). My engine has taken lots of abuse since then.

 

Mine came to 4k from Gotham.

 

As stated there, I am not taking any install jobs/cars, however I can take short or longblocks at any time. I am limited by space in how many cars I can take at one time.


Thank you. Give the caps a rest

You don't actually think I pay anywhere near retail for that stuff, do you?

Obviously, for someone such as myself who plans to build 5+ engines per month, it wouldn't be hard to negotiate a decent price break with a parts supplier.

Here's a good idea of what the bottom line looks like, using the FD as an example. The basic parts kit for the FD engines run me around $800, including new apex seals, cornerseal springs, external gasket overhaul kit, coolant seal kit with tension bolt seals and dowelpin orings, front and rear main seals, upgraded viton oil control rings, and thermal pellet replacement for the e-shaft.

These parts are pretty much the bare minimum for a decent rebuild. Sometimes main bearings require replacement at a cost around $100 extra. Cornerseals, sideseals, sideseal springs, oil control rings and springs are almost always reuseable, as measured vs. new. Consider that most FD engines are either relatively recent remans/rebuilds already, or fairly low to moderate mileage original engines, and rotor side components suffer very little wear over time. There are times when the customer wants an engine built for higher power and longevity, which is when solid cornerseals, 3mm apex seals and new apex springs are also introduced at an extra cost.

Do you really want to stir that up? Who died and appointed you the rebuild king? How many rebuilds have you done? Seen done in person? How many cores have you disassembled, inspected, and measured? Seen done?

I've taken apart literally hundreds of cores, and built hundreds of engines. I am completely self taught on all my procedures and knowledge, via the FSM and experience. I started by taking apart some failed cores, and noting the damage obvserved. I also compared (undamaged) used parts with new parts, noting which parts *normally* suffer wear or not. It's clear to see what the major points of wear and failure in the engine are: apex seals, coolant seals, and oil seals. I asked myself, despite convention, why a person actually has to replace every part inside that engine, even though only a few wear and fail?

When was the last time you heard of anyone having a bad engine because of a cornerseal spring? Or a broken side seal? If you did, then the person claiming this failure probably didnt know what they were talking about, and was just making a semi-educated guess. Because those parts, under normal conditions, don't fail.

I've actually measured used sideseals that mic'd out exactly like new ones, and a couple of times I got new side seals that were shorter than the used ones. Even though we brag about the simplicity of our engines having only 3 moving parts, the reality is that there are 90 seals/springs on the rotors alone. True, at retail prices, it costs you around $1200-1500 for all the new parts for the inside of this engine. However, in reality, you only *need* to replace about $800 worth of those parts, the rest of just stuff that people "think" should get replaced. Well, that's fine for those whose pocketbooks can afford to "think" that way, but for the rest, I wanted to offer an option that doesnt cost more than some of the cars they go into.

 

No one. I haven't done a single rebuild. I know you're an experienced builder but there's a lot of other experienced builders who would absolutely refuse to reuse internal seals, and I don't blame them.

Your goal is to provide a more "economic" rebuild for those who can't truly afford to own and maintain an FD, and that's fine, there's a large customer base for you I'm sure! But who can say that this type of rebuilding isn't responsible for a percentage of premature death engines, you know, the kind that give the rotary such a bad rep (and this is in no way meant to be a slander against your business or rebuilding skills, you're giving the customer what he wants after all).

Personally, to me, if you are rebuilding a typical 60k+ mile motor, all internal seals should be replaced, if you want to do it RIGHT. This is my opinion based on what I know, and should result in the strongest motor possible. You can disagree with me and that's fine, but I am entitled to my opinion as well.

BTW, do you agree then with Eric that apex seals should be reused if they look "OK"?

 

According to the Rotary Aviation rebuild video, you can. It's been a while since i've seen the video, so I can't remember the exact criterias.

-Alex

 

Tell me this. If the old seal is good, why would you replace it? This is if you built your own motors.

 

To piggyback on this, I once chipped a seal on a motor with only 2k miles on it. Had her back up and running in 36 hrs, for about $300 (just replaced all the apex seals). If I had wanted to, I could have just replaced the chipped seal at a cost of $50. Can't beat that.....how much is the typical V8 rebuild, lol?

 

Would've ran me around 1800. However, with new housings, rotors, seals, porting and labor, it was a *bit* above that.

 

I understand the sense of that...the seals only have 2k miles on them.

What I can't believe, is that people would reuse internal seals on the typical 60k+ mileage motor. Maybe I'm full of ****, but I know I feel a hell of a lot better knowing that my new motor will have all new seals and rotor housings.