want to buy Rear Hatch Shocks Near death in performance
#1
want to buy Rear Hatch Shocks Near death in performance
Exactly what title says I want to buy Rear Hatch Shocks Near death in performance
(not lifting oem rear hatch)
I have carbon fiber hatch and stock shocks in good working condition is pushing to match making the gap between body and the hatch up about 1/4" when closed
(not lifting oem rear hatch)
I have carbon fiber hatch and stock shocks in good working condition is pushing to match making the gap between body and the hatch up about 1/4" when closed
#5
This is the same problem faced when using full pressure shocks on CF aftermarket hoods. Most manufacturers sell a "half pressure" option for CF parts. Find a shock that works, then see if you can get it in half pressure.
#6
Won't be suitable for a hatch that weighs significantly less, Mazda did make a few different strength struts for the rx7. If you search under user Daioni, I think he had info for them around 10 years back - catering for wing and wiper delete options.
Over here at least, there's still a few who will rebuild oem ones to the pressure of your choice...and expect it's the same there.
Over here at least, there's still a few who will rebuild oem ones to the pressure of your choice...and expect it's the same there.
#7
Liftsupportsdepot.com
Here is what I used for my STOCK setup. They are 80lbs rated. My research showed that oem is about 75lbs.
Based on the same lengths you could use one of these. 30, 40, or 50lbs. I have no idea which would work for the carbon fiber hatch. How heavy is it?
You need to do something like what I did for the bracket on the body end of the strut.
Here is my bracket solution for the body mount. Part number for the bracket is above. Then it needs to be chopped and bent into shape.
For the hatch end of the struts, you need to purchase a pair of 10mm ball studs.
Here is what I used for my STOCK setup. They are 80lbs rated. My research showed that oem is about 75lbs.
Based on the same lengths you could use one of these. 30, 40, or 50lbs. I have no idea which would work for the carbon fiber hatch. How heavy is it?
You need to do something like what I did for the bracket on the body end of the strut.
Here is my bracket solution for the body mount. Part number for the bracket is above. Then it needs to be chopped and bent into shape.
For the hatch end of the struts, you need to purchase a pair of 10mm ball studs.
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#9
I'll post a couple pics tonight. The hatch end looks very similar to stock, except the strut end is removable from the ball stud.
I FORGOT TO MENTION....
These are slightly longer than stock, meaning the hatch opens higher. (Just in case anyone was planning on using these numbers)
The whole point of this exercise was to re-create the oem bracket, except it has the ball stud already attached so you can use universal struts. The oem struts have the body bracket and the hatch ball stud built in to them. All the other pre-made aftermarket hatch strut kits for the FD seem to lack in strength and aesthetics.
Your results may vary. The bracket is very strong stainless. Needs to be heated cherry red with an oxyacetylene torch to be able to bent easily.
I FORGOT TO MENTION....
These are slightly longer than stock, meaning the hatch opens higher. (Just in case anyone was planning on using these numbers)
The whole point of this exercise was to re-create the oem bracket, except it has the ball stud already attached so you can use universal struts. The oem struts have the body bracket and the hatch ball stud built in to them. All the other pre-made aftermarket hatch strut kits for the FD seem to lack in strength and aesthetics.
Your results may vary. The bracket is very strong stainless. Needs to be heated cherry red with an oxyacetylene torch to be able to bent easily.
#13
Well, wish I had seen that!!!
I read reviews on the aftermarket kits and people were complaining about how crappy the body mount bracket was.... So I didn't really look any further at any kits. But that doesn't look bad at all. And doesn't look like a weak design to me.
I think maybe what people were saying is that the pivot rod is tilting, causing a side load on the circlip making it pop out.
I read reviews on the aftermarket kits and people were complaining about how crappy the body mount bracket was.... So I didn't really look any further at any kits. But that doesn't look bad at all. And doesn't look like a weak design to me.
I think maybe what people were saying is that the pivot rod is tilting, causing a side load on the circlip making it pop out.
Last edited by Andre The Giant; 01-22-16 at 10:50 PM.
#15
Is this what you need? 93 1993 Mazda RX7 Trunk Strut - Body Mechanical & Trim - Sachs - PartsGeek
#16
Y'all, before we start buying random parts. Whoever bought it already share some photos so we all can think together. If we find something that works well, I will just copy it call it done or I will buy something else and share it here so we all experiment only once.
#17
The above aftermarket kit does not work as I got one , the included hardware is not strong enough to hold hatch. The piece that does through, kinda like a bolt has a c clip instead of but and it kept popping the c clip off.
#19
Sorry for the low quality pictures. I need to remove the stickers from the struts and attach the oem pivot covers to make it look more stock.
After trying my best to replicate the shape and angle of the stock bracket, I still needed to re-grind it and slightly trim the hatch plastics to make it fit satisfactorily. I would not have had to do that if I made the brackets better.
#22
The ones I purchased for my STOCK hatch were 80lbs (in case I want to add a spoiler later)
I was recommending 30 40 or 50 to the guy who has a carbon fiber hatch that is getting distorted because of the oem struts which are 75lbs(when new)
I was recommending 30 40 or 50 to the guy who has a carbon fiber hatch that is getting distorted because of the oem struts which are 75lbs(when new)