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This is the type of setup I always run when I install them for many of the reasons others have stated. One thing you need to watch out for is catch can placement especially in high humidity environments. You want to place the can near the turbos if possible to keep the temperature in the can up. If you don't, the can will fill up with water due to the water vapor condensing if its in a cool enough location for water to become liquid again. I have this same Greddy catch can on the wife's car, has been on there for 20 years but the bay is so tight that I can't fit this particular can in a warm enough location to keep the humidity in vapor form. I plan to build a custom setup when I update the car. Because of this and me living in Florida now, during an AutoX day I have to dump the can twice, once after the morning session and once after the later session and it just fills with water not oil. It wasn't as bad when I lived in Dry Colorado but still noticeable. I catch very little oil in the can but have to regularly dump it for water even for street driving. When I am able to install these in the hotter parts of the engine bay, I don't have this problem.
I didn't consider the high humidity; I'm also in Florida. Luckily, I'm not tracking the car yet. However, I think there's a second solution you can opt for. They make built-in heaters that utilize your coolant as heat (like our throttle bodies do from the factory, which helps melt ice off the butterfly valves in cold climates). If mounting it closer to the turbos is not an option, then I'd say you could T off the same hoses to the throttle bodies to feed into the inlet and outlet of the heater core for the AOS. You might have to modify one to keep it as a catch can since AOS routes oil back into your engine.
Finished the looking glass meter (made with real glass). Now moving on to some filtering material and a baffling tube, and I should have the most effective catch can one can make.
I didn't consider the high humidity; I'm also in Florida. Luckily, I'm not tracking the car yet. However, I think there's a second solution you can opt for. They make built-in heaters that utilize your coolant as heat (like our throttle bodies do from the factory, which helps melt ice off the butterfly valves in cold climates). If mounting it closer to the turbos is not an option, then I'd say you could T off the same hoses to the throttle bodies to feed into the inlet and outlet of the heater core for the AOS. You might have to modify one to keep it as a catch can since AOS routes oil back into your engine.
good thinking, it would be easy to do, you could use the Throttle body coolant loop.
however, its too complicated. especially for a track oriented car. its adding points of failure, and what is the benefit? a can of oily water?
good thinking, it would be easy to do, you could use the Throttle body coolant loop.
however, its too complicated. especially for a track oriented car. its adding points of failure, and what is the benefit? a can of oily water?
If you are using an aftermarket coolant temperature gauge that is typically tapped into the rear iron leading to the throttle body, you can eliminate that setup. Instead, modify the new heater core or manifold to accept a 1/8 PT fitting for measuring the coolant temperature there. This modification maintains the same number of potential failure points but only works if you already have an aftermarket coolant temperature gauge tapped into the rear iron. An added benefit is that it reduces condensation in the catch can, so it won't fill up as frequently.
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I seen this product but the description lacks some detail. It's a dynamic plunger that adjusts the crankcase pressure to the manifold based on load. However, wouldn't it be better to not use the 'ORB PCV Valve' altogether and allow for maximum crankcase pressure relief. Why restrict it? The only advantage I can see is that it might prevent oil starvation by controlling the amount of vaporized oil that escapes through the valve but the OEM filler neck already does this with its long design and built-in chamber.
That's because depending on how the catch can system is setup it could cause a vacuum leak. For example, a vented catch can routed to the intake manifold can cause this, that's where this pcv valve comes in.
I wouldn't route a catch can to the manifold since you risk boosting your crankcase when you're in boost if that dynamic plunger fails. I'll have someone else run it first, lol, but I believe the vacuum off the turbo inlet is plenty. You don't need much vacuum in the crankcase and don't want to have too much vacuum, or it will decrease your oil pressure. This is from my own research so anyone can correct me if I'm wrong, I don't mind learning new things.
Also, below is my homemade oil catch can!
It can hold 300mL before oil covers the baffled tube. Luckily, my meter glass will tell me when it's at 300mL. I'll be adding a drain plug later, but this will do for now. It has everything those $300+ catch cans have: a brass filter, baffling, and stainless steel wool. My favorite feature is the metering glass that I made from computer open-loop hardware and a real glass tube. I had to use RTV with the -8AN "bulk head" threads to seal the can, if anyone was wondering in the future. I also use Earl's AN fittings, and the computer open-loop hardware was from EKWB. (Not sure if the O-rings can handle oil, but we'll see.)
07-27-24, 06:24 PM
