Use my money to mod the RX7
#1
Use my money to mod the RX7
Some of you know that I was able to pickup a fun project/weekend car and I'm trying to create a mod list of what I want to do with the car. You guys suggest which parts would be best.
The car came with the following
New streetported 3mm engine - new housings and rotors
Unorthodox Pulley Set
A-Spec 500R T4 Single Turbo
A-Spec Stainless Manifold
TurboSmart E Boost Controller/Gauge
Greddy Type-RS BOV
Tial 44mm Wastegate
RE-A Dual-Tip Cat-Back Exhaust System (JDM)
A-Spec Down Pipe
A-Spec Mid Pipe
RX-7Store V-Mount Intercooler Kit + Modified KOYO Radiator
Coolingmist Trunk mount injection kit (not installed yet)
Greddy Throttlebody Elbow
FDNewbie Import, Dual Oil Coolers w/ Black Setrab Cores
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable gas Shocks
Resurfaced Rotors
Hawk HP+ Pads
Shortshifter
Upgraded fuel pump (don't know which kind)
1300cc secondary injectors, I'm guessing primary are still stock
HKS Twin Power
Exedy Clutch/flywheel
Steven Kan Tune for 14psi
My Future Plans in no order: (estimated costs)
Rebuild engine (this is first thing that's happening as I bought the car knowing it will be needed) - ~$4000 seeing that I don't need to replace housings and just need to replace seals/springs
Swap interior to black (just need seats and carpet) - No idea how much this would cost, guessing $600 for suede seats in good shape and $100 or carpet?
Burnout widebody kit (or I may just get the rear flares and keep stock body) - ~1800 for the kit or just ~300 for the rear flares
Wheels (can't decide if I want CCW or something else like HRE or iForged) - ~$5000 for wheels and tires
Paint car black - ~$4000-$5000 for a good paint job and body work if I end up getting the body kit
Coilovers - Going based on how much I got my Stance coilovers for, ~$1300
Need gauges to know what's going on (I only have a boost gauge) - ~$800?
Turbo timer - ~$200?
So far that is all I can think of about doing mods. If there are major things that I am missing go ahead and suggest it.
So for wheels, coilovers and gauges, you guys can suggest whatever would be best such as which gauges I should get. I know I want a wideband but don't know which one. Probably should get oil temp gauge to. Anything else? I would have boost, oil temp and wideband.
I had Stance coilovers on my old FD and liked them but rode a little rough (12/12 spring rate, I would go with 10/10 this time to help on the ride) but I've heard Tein and Buddyclub are good coilovers too.
The car came with the following
New streetported 3mm engine - new housings and rotors
Unorthodox Pulley Set
A-Spec 500R T4 Single Turbo
A-Spec Stainless Manifold
TurboSmart E Boost Controller/Gauge
Greddy Type-RS BOV
Tial 44mm Wastegate
RE-A Dual-Tip Cat-Back Exhaust System (JDM)
A-Spec Down Pipe
A-Spec Mid Pipe
RX-7Store V-Mount Intercooler Kit + Modified KOYO Radiator
Coolingmist Trunk mount injection kit (not installed yet)
Greddy Throttlebody Elbow
FDNewbie Import, Dual Oil Coolers w/ Black Setrab Cores
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable gas Shocks
Resurfaced Rotors
Hawk HP+ Pads
Shortshifter
Upgraded fuel pump (don't know which kind)
1300cc secondary injectors, I'm guessing primary are still stock
HKS Twin Power
Exedy Clutch/flywheel
Steven Kan Tune for 14psi
My Future Plans in no order: (estimated costs)
Rebuild engine (this is first thing that's happening as I bought the car knowing it will be needed) - ~$4000 seeing that I don't need to replace housings and just need to replace seals/springs
Swap interior to black (just need seats and carpet) - No idea how much this would cost, guessing $600 for suede seats in good shape and $100 or carpet?
Burnout widebody kit (or I may just get the rear flares and keep stock body) - ~1800 for the kit or just ~300 for the rear flares
Wheels (can't decide if I want CCW or something else like HRE or iForged) - ~$5000 for wheels and tires
Paint car black - ~$4000-$5000 for a good paint job and body work if I end up getting the body kit
Coilovers - Going based on how much I got my Stance coilovers for, ~$1300
Need gauges to know what's going on (I only have a boost gauge) - ~$800?
Turbo timer - ~$200?
So far that is all I can think of about doing mods. If there are major things that I am missing go ahead and suggest it.
So for wheels, coilovers and gauges, you guys can suggest whatever would be best such as which gauges I should get. I know I want a wideband but don't know which one. Probably should get oil temp gauge to. Anything else? I would have boost, oil temp and wideband.
I had Stance coilovers on my old FD and liked them but rode a little rough (12/12 spring rate, I would go with 10/10 this time to help on the ride) but I've heard Tein and Buddyclub are good coilovers too.
#2
As far as coilover goes, I have the Buddyclubs and I love them, ride is not too rough.
With the wideband I went with techedge, a lot of the OG guys use it and is very easy to install unlike some widebands that has a ton of wires to hook up...
I guess its true what they say, when you sell your FD you will come back...LOL...
With the wideband I went with techedge, a lot of the OG guys use it and is very easy to install unlike some widebands that has a ton of wires to hook up...
I guess its true what they say, when you sell your FD you will come back...LOL...
#4
I never wanted to sell my first FD but sadly at the time I had to. It was the one and only car that I actually felt depressed and sad that it was gone and I told myself I would be back in one. Well I just graduated college and I wanted to give myself a nice little gift. I feel like I got it for a steal at $11,000. The mods alone cost more than what I just paid for the car. Forgot to say that he rebuilt the 5 speed tranny too when he did the engine. Even with a $4,000 rebuild, I got the car for $15,000 which I think is a good price.
Here are some pics of my OLD FD, took me about a year to get it to where it sits now and then had to sell it. It had 23k on a reman motor and 105k on the chassis when I bought it.
Here is the NEW project. I wanted a single turbo touring black on black but I found this in great shape and I know the shop/builder than built the car from the ground up. Only had 68k on the chassis! 2k on the streetported motor, tranny, and everything else was replaced.
The next day I installed Shine's replica Feed Skirts, I used my cell phone for the picture
Here are some pics of my OLD FD, took me about a year to get it to where it sits now and then had to sell it. It had 23k on a reman motor and 105k on the chassis when I bought it.
Here is the NEW project. I wanted a single turbo touring black on black but I found this in great shape and I know the shop/builder than built the car from the ground up. Only had 68k on the chassis! 2k on the streetported motor, tranny, and everything else was replaced.
The next day I installed Shine's replica Feed Skirts, I used my cell phone for the picture
#6
I would do the interior, then wheels. Before anything else. Of course talking about cosmetically.
Think about painting your car though before you do it. The stock MB can look OUTSTANDING when all nice and waxxed and can be fooled for alot of colors depending on light/shade.
After owning a black car, i would never buy another black car. Black is THE most hardest paint to keep clean.
You would have to be absolutely flawless in the way you clean, wipe, wash and wax your car otherwise that new paintjob can look ugly in a years time.
That still applies to the MB cause its a dark color but black is the worst.
That being said if you still want to change it to black, i would leave that job the absolute last on the list.
YOu got a great setup so far besides those stock wheels and the ugly tan interior lol
Congrats on getting another FD again.
Think about painting your car though before you do it. The stock MB can look OUTSTANDING when all nice and waxxed and can be fooled for alot of colors depending on light/shade.
After owning a black car, i would never buy another black car. Black is THE most hardest paint to keep clean.
You would have to be absolutely flawless in the way you clean, wipe, wash and wax your car otherwise that new paintjob can look ugly in a years time.
That still applies to the MB cause its a dark color but black is the worst.
That being said if you still want to change it to black, i would leave that job the absolute last on the list.
YOu got a great setup so far besides those stock wheels and the ugly tan interior lol
Congrats on getting another FD again.
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks for the compliments guys.
I just found out that the car has Supra TT fuel pump and 550/1300 injectors on this setup. Is this enough to support the setup that he has? Possibly another reason why the motor is damaged, he doesn't a sufficient enough setup? Since the motor is going to be pulled out and apart, I may as well do these things all at once to save on labor.
I just found out that the car has Supra TT fuel pump and 550/1300 injectors on this setup. Is this enough to support the setup that he has? Possibly another reason why the motor is damaged, he doesn't a sufficient enough setup? Since the motor is going to be pulled out and apart, I may as well do these things all at once to save on labor.
#9
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 121
From: Twin Cities, MN
You could use a turbo blanket, a lower intake manifold heat-shield, a vented hood, idler pulley(ditch those unorthodox units) and if not done all the rear pillow bushings etc.
#10
nice... you know i was thinking about going single but i think i just might go out and buy 7 with one already installed and modded. seems like it might be a little cheaper. lol
#11
Thanks for the compliments guys.
I just found out that the car has Supra TT fuel pump and 550/1300 injectors on this setup. Is this enough to support the setup that he has? Possibly another reason why the motor is damaged, he doesn't a sufficient enough setup? Since the motor is going to be pulled out and apart, I may as well do these things all at once to save on labor.
I just found out that the car has Supra TT fuel pump and 550/1300 injectors on this setup. Is this enough to support the setup that he has? Possibly another reason why the motor is damaged, he doesn't a sufficient enough setup? Since the motor is going to be pulled out and apart, I may as well do these things all at once to save on labor.
#14
So I should keep the 550/1300 setup? I see most single turbo cars going with a 850/1600 setup. I don't know what kind of fuel kit the previous owner got and what kind of modifications I'd have to do in order to run that setup or if it's just an easy buy the injectors and put them in. I will check to see if there is a upgraded fuel rail. But like I said, I rather get this all installed while the engine is out to save on labor and it'll likely be a lot easier to install.
#15
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 121
From: Twin Cities, MN
You don't have an upgraded fuel rail if you are running 1300cc. Chances are those are just bored out 850s done by RC eng. I would recommend a stock primaries with 1680cc or maybe a Yawpower injector setup. CJ motorsports makes a really nice fuel rail setup/combo too...
#16
Glad you found another FD. I sold mine a few years ago and i too want to pick another one up. Just can't find the right one.
As for mods it looks like your going for comfort so i wouldnt say a racing seat or cage so all i could think of is maybe upgrade the stereo? Also maybe while your at it just add sound deadening to make for a quieter ride (if thats even possible on a rotary lol yet alone a single turbo one).
As for mods it looks like your going for comfort so i wouldnt say a racing seat or cage so all i could think of is maybe upgrade the stereo? Also maybe while your at it just add sound deadening to make for a quieter ride (if thats even possible on a rotary lol yet alone a single turbo one).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thecody59
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
40
08-23-15 06:41 PM
ncds_fc
New Member RX-7 Technical
1
08-15-15 10:06 AM