Um... having problems... :/
#1
Um... having problems... :/
Well I noticed this before but whenever I go to do a donut or something and after the first spin around for some reason my car will want to stall out... like from 7k rpm to 1k like im off the gas and i need to push the clutch in or it will stall out... anyone have any ideas whats wrong?
#5
You might open up the fuel tank and make sure you don't have the stock baffles broken loose or something else that can obstruct the fuel during a high-g turn. The fuel will all go to one side during maneuvers like that, so anything else that obstructs the pickup will just make things worse.
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#9
Sounds like you still have the stock ECU and sure sounds like your hitting the fuel cut off seven is about the limit going beyond that will give you the beep sound and ECU kicks in the knock sensor retarding ignition to protect the engine. Your not hearing this cause you are too busy having fun or window is down and your too busy paying attention to your surroundings.
Try this on a straight line drive just normal acceleration 1st gear all the way to the redline you will know when it reaches redline it will beep and cut off.
Then second all the way to redline it will beep and then cut off. Although it is rotary and somewhat can handle all the way to 8,000 RPM it will have its limit.
Changed my ECU recently to Pettit reflash but I have never tried to redline the car although I maxed out the boost to 14psi. I am sure one of this days I will try it out its just rainy season is keeping me from driving her. I cannot afford PFC yet so this is my resort for now.
Was I pretty accurate, any experts there?
Try this on a straight line drive just normal acceleration 1st gear all the way to the redline you will know when it reaches redline it will beep and cut off.
Then second all the way to redline it will beep and then cut off. Although it is rotary and somewhat can handle all the way to 8,000 RPM it will have its limit.
Changed my ECU recently to Pettit reflash but I have never tried to redline the car although I maxed out the boost to 14psi. I am sure one of this days I will try it out its just rainy season is keeping me from driving her. I cannot afford PFC yet so this is my resort for now.
Was I pretty accurate, any experts there?
#10
stick to doing burnouts in the rain, less stress on parts and you wont waste your tires as fast, or just dont burn out/donuts that really such a stupid thing to do for no reason but to show off that wow you can press on the gas and brake at the same time
and envyforrx7 if you read his sig he has a pfc
and envyforrx7 if you read his sig he has a pfc
#15
#16
well i am not running even 8 psi atm so im not making the power i want since bad seals have decent boost loss... and theorie i do no it was a non turbo since i had to put one it myself ^^
#17
WHAT!!!!! all FD's come turbocharged from factory, and bad seals where on the turbo or the motor. and anything under 8psi is just pointless. you wont get anywhere fast.
#19
"bad seals" - what are you talking about? do you know how many different types of seals are on this car? coolant seals, oil gasket seals, apex seals, side seals, corners seals, etc. etc. etc. just exactly what type of "bad seals" do you think you have that causes "decent boost loss"? certainly not the kid that still allow you to make 380-400 horses while doing donuts in wet parking lots and flooring 1st thur 3rd gear down dirt roads.
your lies keep piling up kid.
in that other thread you claimed that your car came non-turbo (saying it was one of the few, rare factory non-turbo models!) and that you had '99-spec turbos installed. yet in that same thread you also claimed that the turbos were leaking from before you go the car. those to statements completely conflict with one another. so what was it?
you also claim that you had sequential turbos installed on the car because it was non-turbo. if the car was non-turbo when you bought it, then the previous owner must have converted it to no turbo. that process would have removed many of the solenoids, canisters, and other vac lines required for the sequential system. that means that you would have had to purchase the turbos ($2500) plus an intercooler, plus piping, plus a blow-off valve, plus the downpipe, plus all of the solenoids that were missing, plus all of the vac hoses, plus the sensors, plus the check valves, etc. etc. etc. - this is not a small job. to go from non-turbo to '99-spec sequential turbos is gonna cost you well over $6k just to throw out a low estimate. now tell me, how is it that someone able to buy an FD3S and drop $6k to turbocharge that car is going to say he is unable to buy a new $150 blow off valve when he thinks his is broken?
oh and let's not forget that you claim, "you put one on yourself" - even though going from non-turbo to sequential turbo is a really big job. the way you are wording it makes it sound like you, with your own hands, did the work to make this car seq-turbo again. so tell me, how is a mechanical genius like yourself able to do that huge job, but then you need to start a thread to ask if something is wrong with your blow off valve (when you also include pictures of it missing a nipple fitting and not even connected).
let's see, you also think you're making 380-400 horse power at only 8psi with bad turbos. i'm sorry kid, but i have a street-ported motor with 1600cc injectors, no emissions, rich man's non-seq twins, a huge intercooler, just about every bolt-on, a great tune, and my car made 380 horses at 15psi. i'm sorry but you are wrong. your car never made 380-400 horse power at only 8psi with sequential twins. never. period. that is a fact.
flooring it down dirt roads in a sports car with street tires? you're asking for disaster. tinkering with your motor when you know nothing about these cars? you're on the road to blow your motor.
kid you are either a troll or an idiot. you're 19 years old and know absolutely nothing about these cars. please, sell it now.
#21
for the last and final time: ALL FD3S (3rd GEN) RX-7s CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH SEQUENTIAL TWIN TURBO CHARGERS. THERE WAS NEVER A NON-TURBO FD - PERIOD. END OF STORY.
"bad seals" - what are you talking about? do you know how many different types of seals are on this car? coolant seals, oil gasket seals, apex seals, side seals, corners seals, etc. etc. etc. just exactly what type of "bad seals" do you think you have that causes "decent boost loss"? certainly not the kid that still allow you to make 380-400 horses while doing donuts in wet parking lots and flooring 1st thur 3rd gear down dirt roads.
your lies keep piling up kid.
in that other thread you claimed that your car came non-turbo (saying it was one of the few, rare factory non-turbo models!) and that you had '99-spec turbos installed. yet in that same thread you also claimed that the turbos were leaking from before you go the car. those to statements completely conflict with one another. so what was it?
you also claim that you had sequential turbos installed on the car because it was non-turbo. if the car was non-turbo when you bought it, then the previous owner must have converted it to no turbo. that process would have removed many of the solenoids, canisters, and other vac lines required for the sequential system. that means that you would have had to purchase the turbos ($2500) plus an intercooler, plus piping, plus a blow-off valve, plus the downpipe, plus all of the solenoids that were missing, plus all of the vac hoses, plus the sensors, plus the check valves, etc. etc. etc. - this is not a small job. to go from non-turbo to '99-spec sequential turbos is gonna cost you well over $6k just to throw out a low estimate. now tell me, how is it that someone able to buy an FD3S and drop $6k to turbocharge that car is going to say he is unable to buy a new $150 blow off valve when he thinks his is broken?
oh and let's not forget that you claim, "you put one on yourself" - even though going from non-turbo to sequential turbo is a really big job. the way you are wording it makes it sound like you, with your own hands, did the work to make this car seq-turbo again. so tell me, how is a mechanical genius like yourself able to do that huge job, but then you need to start a thread to ask if something is wrong with your blow off valve (when you also include pictures of it missing a nipple fitting and not even connected).
let's see, you also think you're making 380-400 horse power at only 8psi with bad turbos. i'm sorry kid, but i have a street-ported motor with 1600cc injectors, no emissions, rich man's non-seq twins, a huge intercooler, just about every bolt-on, a great tune, and my car made 380 horses at 15psi. i'm sorry but you are wrong. your car never made 380-400 horse power at only 8psi with sequential twins. never. period. that is a fact.
flooring it down dirt roads in a sports car with street tires? you're asking for disaster. tinkering with your motor when you know nothing about these cars? you're on the road to blow your motor.
kid you are either a troll or an idiot. you're 19 years old and know absolutely nothing about these cars. please, sell it now.
"bad seals" - what are you talking about? do you know how many different types of seals are on this car? coolant seals, oil gasket seals, apex seals, side seals, corners seals, etc. etc. etc. just exactly what type of "bad seals" do you think you have that causes "decent boost loss"? certainly not the kid that still allow you to make 380-400 horses while doing donuts in wet parking lots and flooring 1st thur 3rd gear down dirt roads.
your lies keep piling up kid.
in that other thread you claimed that your car came non-turbo (saying it was one of the few, rare factory non-turbo models!) and that you had '99-spec turbos installed. yet in that same thread you also claimed that the turbos were leaking from before you go the car. those to statements completely conflict with one another. so what was it?
you also claim that you had sequential turbos installed on the car because it was non-turbo. if the car was non-turbo when you bought it, then the previous owner must have converted it to no turbo. that process would have removed many of the solenoids, canisters, and other vac lines required for the sequential system. that means that you would have had to purchase the turbos ($2500) plus an intercooler, plus piping, plus a blow-off valve, plus the downpipe, plus all of the solenoids that were missing, plus all of the vac hoses, plus the sensors, plus the check valves, etc. etc. etc. - this is not a small job. to go from non-turbo to '99-spec sequential turbos is gonna cost you well over $6k just to throw out a low estimate. now tell me, how is it that someone able to buy an FD3S and drop $6k to turbocharge that car is going to say he is unable to buy a new $150 blow off valve when he thinks his is broken?
oh and let's not forget that you claim, "you put one on yourself" - even though going from non-turbo to sequential turbo is a really big job. the way you are wording it makes it sound like you, with your own hands, did the work to make this car seq-turbo again. so tell me, how is a mechanical genius like yourself able to do that huge job, but then you need to start a thread to ask if something is wrong with your blow off valve (when you also include pictures of it missing a nipple fitting and not even connected).
let's see, you also think you're making 380-400 horse power at only 8psi with bad turbos. i'm sorry kid, but i have a street-ported motor with 1600cc injectors, no emissions, rich man's non-seq twins, a huge intercooler, just about every bolt-on, a great tune, and my car made 380 horses at 15psi. i'm sorry but you are wrong. your car never made 380-400 horse power at only 8psi with sequential twins. never. period. that is a fact.
flooring it down dirt roads in a sports car with street tires? you're asking for disaster. tinkering with your motor when you know nothing about these cars? you're on the road to blow your motor.
kid you are either a troll or an idiot. you're 19 years old and know absolutely nothing about these cars. please, sell it now.
damn got him even though im just 19 i would like to think that i know a lot about these cars and im just beginning to learn. lol ive done so much research on these cars it almost like ive been dating an FD since i was 6. and my car with a fairly large single turbo makes about 450WHP on 15LBS of boost with a street port and all the supporting mods. so 400WHP on 8lbs on tiny factory twins is just impossible.
#25
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Just like the other thread started by the OP, getting closed down.
taylorjones, please spend time searching/researching/reading before starting another thread and wasting all of our time. Thanks.
taylorjones, please spend time searching/researching/reading before starting another thread and wasting all of our time. Thanks.
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