So after starting to look at FDs for 18+ months...even while I still had my AP2 S2K I finally took delivery of my FD earlier this month on the 1st. I looked at four total and ended up picking up the first of the four that I looked at. Its been almost three weeks now and its been pretty interesting... Here are some pics.


Delivered to Target by the previous owner (Chris - he had it posted in the Austin area in this forum).




Photoshoot at a local parking lot. Kind of an official gathering of the fleet

So the downs...the paint was immaculate until my key broke then I needed to tape up the windows. Then when I took off the painters tape later on it took off the clear with the tape on one part of the drivers side. It lifted in a few other areas but didn't do it so badly. I'm trying to decide between spot spraying or changing the color on the car to white.

Then I also need a new hardline on the high pressure side because as of right now I have been driving in the Texas heat with no a/c. I also have a rough start up idle and some kind of exhaust rattle going on. And just found out my reverse lights don't work. But the forum has been pretty good and the search function usually yields some sort of answer that I am looking for.

I pretty much just want to do reliability mods, restore the suspension, then the interior, and then start tracking her in the fall. Is that too much to expect? I think this will be fun.

 

Testing some wheels I had laying around. Needed to see if they'd fit since they were originally ordered for my s2k.






And yes they'll fit! FD wheels are pretty light...I hope these aren't too much heavier at 15.9 lbs each (I think). They're 17x9 +45. Now to wait til Thursday for her shoes to come in...I wanted Kumho Escta XS or Hankook RS3s but I think I will buy these for the FD wheels to track with. I decided on a set of Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110s for the RPF1s. It's so hard to wait til Thursday...I almost canceled the tires due to financial reasons but after seeing dry rot on my front sidewalls on the inside. No reason not to

 

It must be a '93 if the clear came off with the painters tape...lol

Good starter though. Any engine bay pics yet?

 

Getting her ready



Hankook Ventus V12 evo for the budget minded car enthusiast



virgin wheels so clean and so nice that its black on the inside...



combination ebay and walmart tires on the stockers


also looks like the oem wheels are the "brittle" version - lighter but more prone to cracking


I also picked up an oem shift **** to replace the "S2K" replica that was on the car when I bought it. Feels so much better...too bad I gotta send it off to get recovered in new leather. I'll post pictures on the car tomorrow...it was too dark when I finished to take any decent pictures.


Okay I'll post one...for now. I also see a potential problem with this...needs to be lowered

 

Parts of the car were resprayed but yeah the upper part wasn't dont well I guess. I might get her repainted in white anyway. Or continue to try to find a white car and then move over the good interior bits. Anyway I'm trying to learn the rotary walk around and fix things here and there. I want to find the rattle I'm having from either the TCA or exhaust shielding...maybe this weekend. Anyway the engine bay pics...well here it is pretty boring if I have to say so...


This is actually from when I was looking at the car when it was for sale...

 

I have some good plans. Heres a few thoughts for now.

- aluminum AST
- koyo radiator - or V mount setup
- Stance GR+ / Tein Flex / Stance GR+ 3-Way coilovers - depends on how much I want to spend - I read that it doesn't take much to experience the car on the track and all I want to do is upgrade the blown shocks and get a drop but since I'll be in there already I plan on getting some sort of good set of coilovers
- new OEM pillowball bushings
- Super pro poly bushings
- replace the 6 puck clutch - I am getting used to it but I rather not put the strain on my drivetrain since I do drive this as a semi daily
- relocate the battery - didn't realize how costly this can be...I might go with an optima battery relocate
- Power FC w/commander
- rebuild stock turbos
- burnout front bumper or mazdaspeed GTC front bumper - not sure which one they both look great
- 99' spec rear tails
- 99' spec wing - this will be coming in the next month

Like I said its a short list

 

Next up is a spoiler I found someone else with an SSM that wants to trade a bare hatch for his hatch with a spoiler. As for a drop that'll come once I can afford the coils, pillowball bushings, and poly bushings all at once

 

sweet car dude.. have fun with the mods.

BTW, make sure you change the fuel filter on the car and possible a new fuel pump..

 

Yeah I was looking at the RP fuel filter. Not so sure what to go with for the fuel pump...

 

Just some assembly required but I bought some of my friend's parts he had left over after doing his LS2 swap. I got a B&M short shifter and his HKS carbon Ti catback. I was going to take his catalytic converter too but my mid pipe looks very nice so I'm just gonna leave her straight pipe...






I'm not sure if its because it used to be an auto but the passenger front bolt on the tranny was impossible to get to... I had to drop the tranny an inch just to get it out. Also the guy that did the swap finger tightened everything or maybe its just the rough ride that loosened some bolts. Fixed all that. I have some connectors on the tranny that aren't connected though and I suspect maybe because the harness for the automatic engine doesn't have the plugs for the manual transmission. Here's some boring shots of the exhaust haha...




I gotta say that thing is way light compared to that stocker. I like the look of the stock exhaust...do not like the single tip broken off. HKS kind of drones but I have other cars I can drive if I want it to be quiet

 

Received some PowerFlex bushings and pillow ball bushing replacements from Atomic Rex.




Can't wait to find time to install all of these. Just need some new coilovers and I'll be set for the track in the fall. Also some parts from a seller in Washington state and Arizona.



Will finally get the AC back up and running with Freeze 12 / ES-12. Mineral Oil, Nylog Red, and new o-rings.

 

Looks good! And I have no idea how many hours I've spent inside a Scott and White...

 

So first off I never realized it was such an ordeal to remove the airbox...I think I want to replace everything in that area before reassembly. Any one got any suggestions on what I can do in place of the stock air box?




So...got the orings ready on the replacement low pressure line.




I was about to bust this open when I found something...


I ended up having to take off the high pressure line, which was not even tight...I hand loosened it. Looks like the previous owner removed it and decided not to replace it. Although he did tell me that it was broken he pointed at the wrong line.



So one of the rings on the air filter wore away at the line over time. Anyway time to either find one on the forum or call up Malloy. I really would like my AC to work again... CenTX heat sucks!

 

That can be repaired/patched. There's plenty of A/C shops here that will do it.

 

Nice progress! I'll keep my eye out for ya next time I'm in Temple.

 

So it looks like all the projects will be put on hold. I think my clutch fork is going out. The transmission is supposed to have 40k on it and for the swap, the fd has a 6 puck clutch and master / slave cylinders from an 80k R1. Recently my clutch pedal started to stick to the ground when and won't come up unless I'm rolling and pretty hard to do that in first. I stalled several times. It only happens when I'm in gear and not in neutral. Happens in 1st and reverse mostly. I'm thinking from other threads on the subject, that the clutch fork is on the way out. At the same time, I might as well do these...

pilot bearing and seal
rear main bearing and seal
rear stationary gear o-ring
clutch fork
front and rear transmission oil seals
wedge collar
new oem flywheel or light flywheel

Should I do all of these if the transmission has 40k? Well transmission was advertised as a 40k jdm transmission, so I would maybe keep that in mind. Any other suggestions? I might remove the 6 puck and replace with an Exedy organic stage 1 or Exedy twin plate clutch. Haven't decided yet because I've gotten used to the 6 puck now so it's not as bad as when I first had the car.

 

I have a 6 puck with a low-mileage JDM transmission as well. Granted, my clutch has a sprung hub, so that reduces driveline stress. I think that if you're used to the 6-puck and it has a good amount of friction material left, keep it to save money. Of course, if someone gave me $1500 to spend and I could only buy an Exedy Twin plate, I wouldn't think twice about it lol.

That all said, I had similar symptoms happen to me (and I was lucky enough to be less than a mile from my house). Turned out to be the slave cylinder. My dumb *** only replaced the slave cylinder, contributing to the master cylinder's failure soon after. You say that the master and slave cylinders came from a 80k mile car... It's possible the increased force required for your pressure plate, compared to a stock car, caused one/both of the cylinders to give out. Worth checking. You would need to rebuild/replace both at the same time.

Granted, if you are only having trouble when the car is in gear, and the pedal rises back up when you are in neutral, then it's almost certainly the clutch fork.

You can easily find out if the clutch fork is your problem by looking through the inspection plates on the bottom of the transmission. You should be able to see if the fork is cracked.

What year/series FD did your JDM trans come out of?

 

I'm not sure what year or series the tranny is from. Today when I ran the car to keep the fluids moving... The pedal does stay down even in neutral. Stays up if I pull it up with my foot. Maybe I'll just order a new master / slave. Is Malloy Mazda the best place to go for stock parts?

 

Sounds like your master or slave cylinder is gone... You need to either replace or rebuild both. Malloy would be the best place, he offers a discount to RX-7 owners

 

Ha everyone is trying to get their A/C running right now it seems.

I always think, "Oh, I'll be fine without A/C" - then summer rolls around...

 

So true! Summer is when I try to get projects done on the car so I can look forward to driving it in the fall

 

same here. it's way too hot to drive a black on black car in the summer with no AC

 

So...my master cylinder was weaping into the car. I'm not sure but I went ahead and replaced it seeing that it has approx 81k on it. Tomorrow will be the slave cylinder. Any input on the importance of the gasket that goes between the master cylinder and firewall? My oem one did not come with one so I already finished the install. I'm willing to disassemble everything to install if it is absolutely necessary... ...

 

So...some parts came in from Malloy Mazda last Friday and I was able to go to the front office to pick them up Saturday...



Then get the FD on ramps and jack stands...

If this were my 4runner then I wouldn't have to worry about raising the car


Bled the system first...looks kind of dark for a system that should be only 6 months out. Then here's the culprit...

Weeping master cylinder. Should have spotted this before ordering both the master and slave.



That's pretty much it for now. Don't mind the pictures...iPhone since my other camera was being prepped for a trip to Lime Creek in Austin. I know it's a boring update but it's still part of the build Next up...redeux on the a/c lines.

 

Personally I think you'd be better off finding a good condition set of used stockers or upgrading to BNRs. Really not worth paying to have the stocks rebuilt.