Cihuuy

Before every one tells me to use the search... i allready have!!

All the parts have been taken out... intake elbow, throttle body, extension manifold, and the air box...

I love the sequential system but im also tempted to do the non-sequential setup after i've got to see all the F@#$%! vaccume hoses!!!

The problem is that I only have a HKS super dragger catback, gutted cat, K&N air filter and i just ordered the HKS downpipe... everything else is stock!

Help me out guys...
Turbo simplification or the Rikki style(non-seq)?

Cihuuy

at the moment... i just took out the double throttle butterflies... slow huh?

neways... do i need to use a BOP for the turbo simplification?? tanx in advance

Rated R1

You are going to pop your motor without some sort of fuel management/boost control.

Cihuuy

i dont understand?!? i thot it is safe to do the turbo simplification wiv the stock ecu?? am i missing something here?

Cihuuy

bump^^^

SyderJL

You need to get an upgraded ECU after more than two mods are done. With all the air you are getting in there with the intake(K&N) and exhaust upgrades you are not getting nearly enough gas in there. So upgrade that ECU before you pop your engine. And I personally like the sequentail setup, plus how often do you really have to mess with that rats nest anyway?

Cihuuy

Syder: tanx... i hear abt the 3 mod before changing the ECU... but then again im not an expert...

i dont have the $$$ to get a new ecu at the moment... so should i get a boost controller or a fuel management?? and which brand??

hercdriver

iTrader: (2)

Get a PFC and if you can't afford one right now remove the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator (nonseq) and just let the stock spring (7psi) control the boost. That will keep you safe until you can afford the PFC

Cihuuy

hercdriver: so if i would do the non-seq setup and just remove the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator, my boost wont go above 10psi then? no boost creep?

SyderJL

The first thing you should do if you already haven't, is get a boost gauge and air/fuel gauge. This will tell you if you are getting any boost spike and if your engine is going lean from not enough fuel.
From what I have learned boost creep is not a big problem until you get a mid-pipe but don't quote me on this, so a boost controller probably isn't nessecary, but you can find out if you are getting creep by reading the boost gauge.
I really think you need to get the ECU asap because once you get that dp in there you might notice the A/F gauge showing that you engine is too lean.
There are a couple different types of ECU that I know of, the most common ones and progamable and plug and play ones.
THe prgrammable ECUs are much better if you are trying to achieve a lot a Hp because they can be changed more easily than a plug and play, however they require a lot of time and money to tune yourself or you have to pay a local tuner to do it for you. The best one or most common one is the Power FC controller that hercdriver mentioned. But if you decide to go this route just expect to spend a lot of time on the dyno to do it the right way and if you are not careful and do something wrong you can easliy blow your engine.
The other option is the plug and play ECU. These just require you to take you old ECU and swap it with one that has already been tuned for your mods or more. This is probably the cheapest and safest route IMO. There are a couple of places that sell these.
There is M2 Performance @ www.m2performance.com and the have their ECU's set for there stage 3 mod kit, this will be a little more fuel than you need which is good b/c you can do more upgrade to the enigne later and won't have to upgrade the ECU right away.
And there is Pettit Racing @ www.pettitracing.com I am pretty sure that when you order an ECU from them you just tell them the currnet mods you have done to your car and they will send you an ECU pretuned to your cars need.
I would give both of these places a call and have them help you figure out what it is exactly you want and what you need to do to get there(safely).
So, get those gauges if you haven;t alrealy and make some calls and start save'n
I hope this helps you out.
Justus

SyderJL

Ohh and sorry about the long replay

Cihuuy

SyderJL: no problem dude... the longer the info the better! tanx a bunch...

i dont think im capable of getting an M2 or pettit racing ECU as it is only available in the state... i havent found any reputable shop that can tune the 7 here so i might tune it myself... whether i like it or not!! i'll look through the apexi PFC... if i have the $$$ but at the moment, i have to get a boost controller...

Question: is it necessary to be upgrading the fuel pump and injectors when running non-seq??

kwikrx7

You can leave your fuel pump and injectors alone for now. You really only need to worry about injectos once you hit 320+ rwhp, then it would be good to upgrade to some 1300cc secondaries so they are not maxxed out. If you're planning on running 12-13 psi it would be a good idea to do the fuel pump but you're ok at 10 psi.

Non-seq isn't for everyone. There is some definite lag there - with your mods you won't see full boost until around 4K - in seq you see 10 psi be 2500 rpms or so - the Rikki non-seq is the "quicky" version whcih if you don't like it, you can go back to seq. I'd try the turbo simplification first IMO

hercdriver

iTrader: (2)

You won't get 10 psi if you remove the actuator line. You will only get 5-7psi because that is what the stock wastegate spring is set to. When nothing tells the actuator to stay closed and build boost it opens at 5-7 psi. Basically I was just suggesting it as a stop gap way of protecting your engine until you can afford the upgrades you need.