im running the lt10s with the little timing box on it with 4 msd coils

 

gimme a min ill taking pics of plugs that were in car when it blew

 

Tops are leading the 115s

 

115 leading on left

 

i thought you had the car running again,

are you keeping the lt10?

 

cars down just got it taken apart yesterday and for now im gonna keep the lt10s i fould someone whos good at tuning them

 

do you know how much premix you are running?

while the picture is not ideal the plugs look like they are running cold and do have too much black on them. they should ideally look like light chocolate.

while they do look rich and/or cold you still could have easily run out of fuel at the moment it happened.

it is unfortunate you are not running a Power FC as you would have logs of knock and could have fuel pressure.

what was your timing at 18 psi

 

Looking at karacks and Howards posts above here, the only words that pop into my head is
"sit down, pupils, class is in session!"

 

the seals in that picture from teardown are obviously broken, possibly bent too. but conditions that usually cause it is from a lean condition due to your inadequate primaries for the power level you're looking at. find a tuner more familiar with the microtech to be sure you aren't running out of injector even with the new primaries. if they are bent and the tip broken as well it was obviously from the injectors maxed(or possibly the pump losing voltage or volume output) out and the engine ran beyond 13.5AFR causing a detonation and extremely high EGTs that warped the seals from the lean condition.

there is many issues besides injectors that can arise in the fuel system if you feel like reading the story i linked to in my last reply.

overboost or preignition usually results in the engine twisting and cracking dowels, or sheer horsepower can twist the block but the REW can generally handle ~600whp stock.

anything over 17psi max on 91-93 octane pump fuels i always recommend water or water/alcohol injection even with a well built engine.

conservative timing would be a lock on timing at 15 degrees of advance(leading) at anything above 14psi.

 

ounce per gallon of premix

 

i read it... what a pain lol

 

as far as seals go i would go with ALS or Goopy racing for the seals. while RA can handle a bit of boost i still wouldn't rate them with the above 2.

for durability you might also consider moving up to 3mm. while 2mm can get the job done, any tuning issues like the issues you have run into the 2mm seals will be less forgiving. 3mm seals will however wear the rotor slot and housings slightly quicker and require at least your 1oz/gallon premix ratio.

 

so im done with the super seals and went with the goopy ones also i put the 850cc as primary and 1600s and 2nd...and i went with a new turbo i felt the s366 was very laggy so i went with a s362 insted might not be much of a difference but i heard its a better street turbo... dont know if ill hit 500 or even get close.....heres pics of the new turbo

 

 

this is your 3rd turbo in 6 months, lol thats crazy!

 

it totally is lmfao....i make out pretty good when i sell them since they have pretty much have no miles on them i got 700 for the s366 and paid 680 for it new

 

Hey Ernie, this is zack from GNS. Looking good man. Can't wait to tune this beast. Should've stuck with the super seals though. Lol. And stick with the Microtech. No need to go a diff route. That computer will do perfectly for what u need. If you don't mind could you pm your map tht kilo did on the last motor? I'd like to see it

 

yeah i went with the super seals cause they broke>??? i thought they were only supposed to bend...so i did a test with a old super seal and a goopy seals i clamped both of them down to a peice of metal and hit them bot with a hammer.....the super seal broke and the half i hit when flying across the shop....when i hit the goopy it just bent in half and didnt break....so maybe i was thinking i got a set of boot leg superseals or something

 

The super seals will break the Classics is where its at they just bend. those super seals are junk they tear up housings as well ;(

 

Where do you buy your turbo from?

 

Theboostlab.com

 

my gsx 503hp on stock block and meth made it happen so u cant go wrong.

my fd is going to hav meth it the only way,
i can run pump and still hav fun

 

I have a feeling my car went lean for a lack of fuel I've taken care of the injectors on the primarys....the question is should I upgrade my Bosch 066 to the aeromotive A1000

 

Aeromotive a1000 big NO NO personally seen 3 of them fail. start to overheat and fuel pressure drops very fast. 2of them mustang supercharged and one on a rx7.

Hey that's what me and my friends have experience, but also have few othr friends running them without a problem.

 

ok so i finally tuned the car with the new turbo and i sumped the tank and put two 044 bosch fuel pumps....so i did 469 on a mustang dyno at 20 psi....they say its an additional 12% hp on dyno jet i dont know how true that is ive read online its like a differ of 40 hp....so the question is the tuner said i didnt need to tune with the meth or water injection but i would like to at least run water to prevent detonation not to add power...would i be ok running water ONLY with the med size injector without tuning thats rated for 200-350hp 315cc injector or should i run the big one for up to 600 550cc injector or should i not do it at all and this would be without retuning......btw before you answer people on this thread have said water would be ok without a tune