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Touring VS R1/R2

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Old 04-01-05 | 01:29 AM
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Touring VS R1/R2

I have been searching for the perfect sports car solution for a few years now, that has included a million thoughts such as S2000s and many others. But I am 100% decided that I need an RX7 and I can't think about anything else. I think it's the most brilliant, special, perfect sports car in the world and nothing else will do. I will definately get one once the time is right (within a year for sure)....so I'm trying to learn more about the car. I want an R1/R2. But so far in my searching, there's always something not quite right with the cars I find....too many mods, not enough mods, the wrong mods for what I'm looking for etc....and sometimes I find one done just about right but yep, it's a touring...and I feel stuck on making sure it's the R1/R2. Do I need to let that go? I just can't stop thinking that the R1/R2 is the ultimate pure RX7....so....can I get a touring and basically make it act just like an R?....like I know there's about 90 pounds of extra weight on the touring....from cruise control unit etc....can't I rip most of that off and get my perfect weight dist. back? And I can add the second oil cooler. What else will stop me from having the true pure version? If I get a touring, will I always not quite have the right car?? Do I really just need to go for the R1/R2 if this is the way I'm thinking? Just looking for some opinions.....thanks!

Mark
Old 04-01-05 | 01:30 AM
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Use the search button
Old 04-01-05 | 01:38 AM
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i dont find anything on comparing the models when i use the search button
Old 04-01-05 | 01:39 AM
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i dont find anything on comparing the models when i use the search button...what I know is the touring stock is about 2 tenths slower in the quarter and about .5 slower 0-60?? obviously that doesn't reallt matter once most of these cars have mods...but it's the 90 pounds...i assume most of that is on the front end...to me, that mus change the whole car????
Old 04-01-05 | 01:40 AM
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Just get whatever comes along that fits your needs, reguardless of trim. R1/R2's are a lot more scarce and usually more expensive. It is not hard to make a touring into an R model. There isn't THAT much of a difference.
Old 04-01-05 | 01:44 AM
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ok i know...i figure i can have the extra oil cooler, shave some weight (can I get rid of all of it?)...but aren't there fundamental rigidity issues between the different versions or am I wrong there??
Old 04-01-05 | 01:49 AM
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I would say touring is all the luxuires and r1 and r2 models arent. Ie.. touring..leather seats, sunroof. R1 no sunroof, no cruise control
Old 04-01-05 | 01:53 AM
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There isn't THAT much of a difference.
Nor is there any real reason to care, at this point.

These are older cars and most of them have had springs and shocks replaced either for ride height adjustability/performance, or due to high mileage, so the basic "performance" between the R models and the Touring/PEP models is already gone.

You don't need a second oil cooler unless you track the car, and you can buy a larger aftermarket oiler cooler for less than you can buy a second Mazda oil cooler for the passenger side, so there's no real benefit there, either. Consider a second cooler a bonus, but not something to base your buying decision on.

As far as weight, you can rip out the fog lights (if so equipped), the cruise control, and whatever else you want to (power steering, A/C, etc.), but the major difference between the R1/R2 and Touring/PEP is the sunroof, which is extra weight, may leak if the drain lines become clogged, and costs you about an inch or so of headroom.

As far as performance, there's almost no difference between the 5-speed base, R1/R2, and Touring/PEP as far as quarter mile and 0-60. The extra weight might make a tenth of a second difference, if that. The automatics will be slower, of course, but not the 5-speeds.

The difference in weight is only about 62 lbs., by the way.

Base, M5 - 2,789 lbs.
Base, A4 - 2,857 lbs.
R1, M5 - 2,800 lbs.
Touring, M5 - 2,862 lbs.
Touring, A4 - 2,923 lbs.
Old 04-01-05 | 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by rx_obsessed
aren't there fundamental rigidity issues between the different versions or am I wrong there??
The Touring/PEP doesn't typically come with a front strut tower brace. That's the only possible difference in rigidity, and I don't believe it makes that big a difference. Buy an aftermarket strut tower brace if you feel strongly about it and call it good.
Old 04-01-05 | 01:59 AM
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ok cool I had 90 pounds in my head for some reason...but that's why I'm in here to ask you guys....nice to know the info re: the oil coolers...yeah the sunroof I knew was a culprit too...with weight yes..but more importantly are there rigidity differences that affect handiling at all because of the roof?
Old 04-01-05 | 02:02 AM
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got ya now on the rigidity...didn't see that next post yet....i think i'm quickly getting convinced to broaden my choices to the touring model as well....it will make things easier too....thanks for the input guys
Old 04-01-05 | 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rx_obsessed
with weight yes..but more importantly are there rigidity differences that affect handiling at all because of the roof?
No. Stop over-analyzing and accept the fact that the cars are basically identical with a few minor differences.
Old 04-01-05 | 02:03 AM
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jimlab knows what he's talking about
Old 04-01-05 | 02:08 AM
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cool guys....I'm gonna take my over analzying *** back onto auto trader and look at ALL 7's God I need one!!!!!!
Old 04-01-05 | 02:12 AM
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I'd suggest buying one that is completely stock and then modifying it VERY carefully to suit your tastes and needs.
Old 04-01-05 | 02:16 AM
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yeah thats probably smart advice...but it seems that i could get more for my money since guys dont get their value of their mods back when they sell?...i know exactly what you mean though, some of them scare me ....i think i'd start with one lightly modified....like exhaust, an upgraded rad to at least have a setup that gets the heat out of that engine...then i'll be happy enough to drive it that way in the meantime while i think of other mods i would want
Old 04-01-05 | 03:22 AM
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Also don't disregard the base model - being the lightest car, other than missing the 2nd oil cooler and maybe a strut bar, I'd say it's just as good.
Old 04-01-05 | 04:00 AM
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Also the touring models get extra weight from having the extra sound insulation and the Bose sound system.
Old 04-01-05 | 04:26 AM
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yeah i was thinking that too...the base would be nice and stripped down and light...

and the sound dampening could come out ....and the Bose if I didn't want it....

A guy gave me all the FAQ links and I read more about the forum and about posting new threads etc....so i guess normally people dont put this kind of topic right under the main 3rd generation heading....so thanks for the input and for not burnin the new guy lol
Old 04-01-05 | 06:06 AM
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As far as structural rigidity, having a sunroof isn't like a convertible that needs to have extra bracing to keep the frame from flexing (like a mustang).

Tim
Old 04-01-05 | 07:44 AM
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I wouldn't bother to shop for a particular model, just buy the cleanest car you can find. If there are things you want to change then you can add them cheaper then trying to fix a car that isn't sound.
Old 04-01-05 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DamonB
I wouldn't bother to shop for a particular model, just buy the cleanest car you can find. If there are things you want to change then you can add them cheaper then trying to fix a car that isn't sound.
100% agree on this one. Buy one that hasn't been abused. Like it has been mentioned you will never need the 2 oil coolers, the strut brace can be taken care of easily with aftermarket parts and be realistic about how little 90 pounds is. That is the difference between having 3/4 tank of gas or 1/4 tank and the less than one tenth of a second in 0-60 times you might see is nothign you will ever notice in the street. Also bear in mind the ride is harsher on the R1 than the R2 which in turn is MUCH HARSHER than on the touring. I have an R2 but I can tell you I miss the cruise control and sunroof, and I never drive it hard enough to necessitate the R2 package or benefit from the slight increase in structural rigidity gained from the slicktop. My guess is neither will you. the Suede seats in the R models are neat but don't breathe worth **** and are more unfomfortable than the leather and cloth. There are lots of pros to the average consumer for a touring or base model so don't rule them out but buy one that has been cared for. Good Luck
Old 04-01-05 | 11:04 AM
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it really doesnt make a big difference.

The only thing thats not easily changed out/in is the sunroof vs. no sunroof. You can swap in leather or cloth or 'suede' seats. Same with the 2nd oil cooler or the strut bar.

There is just not a big enough difference to justify paying a lot extra for an R1. If a nicer condition base or touring comes along, I would say go for it.
Old 04-01-05 | 02:27 PM
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If you plan on doing some stereo stuff to the car, removing all the Bose stuff and dealing with some of that can be a pain.

I'm 6'6", and I don't fit for crap in a touring because of the sunroof. For me it was down to either a base or R package. If I would have bought a base, I would have upgraded it to an R - spoilers, strut tower brace, better seat material, etc. I came out money ahead going with an R, not to mention I found a REALLY clean and nice car.

Dale
Old 04-01-05 | 02:45 PM
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100%, what others have said buy a car that is the best shape cosmeticly and mechanically as these are far more important than the trim package. Color to me was more important than trim package as I wanted a white one so R2 was out imediately as there arent any original ones. I also wanted the sunroof so a PEP/PEG trim was the obvious choice for me. You just have to choose what you really want and be prepaired to wait for it and not just buy the first car you find as good unmolested 7's are becoming harder and harder to find.



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