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Old 01-18-07, 08:39 AM
  #151  
Rob

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Originally Posted by illusionzx
don't go titanium, i had bought one a while ago, it cost me a shitload of money, and nobody i found could weld it on, and when it was welded on, it fell off the next day, luckily the mounts held it on....

i like titanium b/c it's lightweight and all, but it's impossible to find somebody that can weld it on.
Yeah, I'm not too optomistic, but I'll keep my eyes open.

here's a little background info on the welding process for those interested:

Commercially pure titanium and most of titanium alloys can be welded by procedures and equipment used in welding austenitic stainless steel and aluminum. Because of the high reactivity of titanium and titanium alloys at temperatures above 550°C, additional precautions must be applied to shield the weldment from contact with air. Also, titanium base metal and filler metal must be clean to avoid contamination during welding.

Unalloyed titanium and all alpha titanium alloys are weldable. Although the alpha-beta alloy Ti-6Al-4V and other weakly beta-stabilised alloys are also weldable, strongly beta-stabilised alpha-beta alloys are embrittled by welding. Most beta alloys can be welded, but because aged welds in beta alloys can be quite brittle, heat treatment to strengthen the weld by age hardening should be used with caution.

Unalloyed titanium is generally available in several grades, ranging in purity from 98.5 to 99.5% Ti. These grades are strengthened by variations in oxygen, nitrogen, carbon, and iron. Strengthening by cold working is possible but is seldom used. All grades are usually welded in the annealed condition. Welding of cold-worked alloys anneals the heat-affected zone (HAZ) and eliminates the strength produced by cold working.

Alpha alloys Ti-5Al-2.5Sn, Ti-6Al-2Sn-4Zr-2Mo, Ti-5Al-5Sn-2Zr-2Mo, Ti-6Al-2Nb-1Ta-1Mo, and Ti-8Al-1Mo-1V are always welded in the annealed condition.

A1pha-beta alloys of Ti-6A1-4V can be welded in the annealed condition or in the solution-treated and partially aged condition, with ageing completed during postweld stress relieving. In contrast to unalloyed titanium and the alpha alloys, which can be strengthened only by cold work, the alpha-beta and beta alloys can be strengthened by heat treatment.

The low weld ductility of most alpha-beta alloys is caused by phase transformation in the weld zone or in the HAZ. Alpha-beta alloys can be welded autogeneously or with various filler metals. It is common to weld some of the lower alloyed materials with matching filler metals. Filler metal of an equivalent grade or one grade lower is used to ensure good weld strength and ductility. Filler metal of matching composition is used to weld the Ti-6Al-4V alloy. This extra low-interstitial (ELI) grade improves ductility and toughness.

The use of filler metals that improve ductility may not prevent embrittlement of the HAZ in susceptible alloys. In addition, low-alloy welds can be embrittled by hydride precipitation. However, with proper joint preparation, filler-metal storage, and shielding, hydride precipitation can be avoided.

Metastable beta alloys Ti-3Al-13V-11Cr, Ti-11.5Mo-6Zr-4.5Sn, Ti-8Mo-8V-2Fe-3Al, Ti-15V-3Cr-3Al-3Sn, and Ti-3Al-8V-6Cr-4Zr-4Mo are weldable in the annealed or solution heat treated condition. In the as-welded condition, welds are 1ow in strength but ductile. Beta alloy weldments are sometimes used in the as-welded condition. Welds in the Ti-3Al-13V-11Cr alloy embrittle more severely when age hardened. To obtain full strength, the metastable beta alloys are welded in the annealed condition; the weld is cold worked by planishing, and the weldment is then solution treated and aged. This procedure also obtains adequate ductility in the weld.



Welding processes

The following fusion-welding processes are used for joining titanium and titanium alloys:
  • Gas-tungsten arc welding (GTAW)
  • Gas-metal arc welding (GMAW)
  • Plasma arc welding (PAW)
  • Electron-beam welding (EBW)
  • Laser-beam welding (LBW)
  • Friction welding (FRW)
  • Resistance welding (RW)
Fluxes cannot be used with these processes because they combine with titanium to cause brittleness and may reduce corrosion resistance. The welding processes that use fluxes are electroslag welding, submerged arc welding, and flux-cored arc welding. These processes have been used on a limited basis. However, they are not considered to be economical because they require high-cost, fluoride-base fluxes. Gas-tungsten arc welding is the most widely used process for joining titanium and titanium alloys except for parts with thick sections. Square-groove butt joints can be welded without filler metal in base metals up to 2.5 mm thick. For thicker base metals, the joint should be grooved, and filler metal is required. The heated weld metal in the weld zone must be shielded from the atmosphere to prevent contamination with oxygen, nitrogen, and carbon, which will degrade the weldment ductility.

Gas-metal arc welding is used to join titanium and titanium alloys more than 3 mm thick. It is applied using pulsed current or the spray mode and is less costly than GTAW, especially when the base metal thickness is greater than 13 mm.

Plasma arc welding is also applicable to joining titanium and titanium alloys. It is faster than GTAW and can be used on thicker sections, such as one-pass welding of plate up to 13 mm thick, using keyhole techniques.

Electron-beam welding is used in the aircraft and aerospace industries for producing high-quality welds in titanium and titanium alloy plates ranging from 6 mm to more than 76 mm thick. Because the welding is performed in a high-vacuum atmosphere, low contamination of the weldment is achieved.

Laser-beam welding is increasingly being used to join titanium and titanium alloys. Square-butt weld joint configurations can be used, and the welding process does not require the use of vacuum chambers; gas shielding is still required. This process is more limited than electron-beam welding regarding base metal thickness, which cannot usually exceed 13 mm.

Friction welding is useful in joining tube, pipe, or rods, where joint cleanliness can be achieved without shielding.

Resistance welding is used to join titanium and titanium alloy sheet by either spot welds or continuous seam welds. The process is also used for welding titanium sheet to dissimilar metals, that is, cladding titanium to carbon or stainless steel plate.

Filler material and electrodes

Filler-metal composition is usually matched to the grade of titanium being welded. For improved joint ductility in welding the higher strength grades of unalloyed titanium, filler metal of yield strength lower than that of the base metal is occasionally used. Because of the dilution that occurs during welding, the weld deposit acquires the required strength. Unalloyed filler metal is sometimes used to weld Ti-5A1-2.5Sn and Ti-6A1-4V for improved joint ductility. The use of unalloyed filler metals 1owers the beta content of the weldment, thereby reducing the extent of the transformation that occurs and improving ductility. Engineering approval, however, is recommended when using pure filler metal to ensure that the weld meets strength requirements.

Another option is filler metal containing lower interstitial content (oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and carbon) or alloying contents that are lower than the base metal being used. The use of filler metals that improve ductility does not preclude embrittlement of the HAZ in susceptible alloys. In addition, low-alloy welds may enhance the possibility of hydrogen embrittlement.

Shielding gases in welding titanium and titanium alloys are only argon and helium, and occasionally ? mixture of these two gases is used for shielding. Because it is more readily available and less costly, argon is more widely used.

Electrodes. The conventional thoriated tungsten types of electrodes (EWTh-1 or EWTh-2) are used for GTAW of titanium. Electrode size is governed by the smallest diameter able to carry the welding current. To improve arc initiation and control the spread of the arc, the electrode should be ground to a point. The electrode may extend one and a half times the size of the diameter beyond the end of the nozzle.
Old 01-18-07, 09:20 AM
  #152  
Needs more seat time

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looks good now get some coilovers and lower it at once.
Old 01-18-07, 09:41 AM
  #153  
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I have coilovers, how else do you think I got it so high? I lower her once I'm done building her ;o)
Old 01-30-07, 03:08 PM
  #154  
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Updates:

Interior:
First set of 94 panels fell through, but Cody came through and saved me by selling me a prestine A/C panel and brand new shifter panel. I felt bad/excited buying them, and it was an emotional parting for him to sell them, but the deal is done. Thanks again Cody!;o/ I have also E-mailed Ray and am in the process of ordering new door platics and switches all around, bezels, (already have new 0-mile odometer). By the time everything is said and done this interior swap will have cost me $1600. I could do it for less if I was lucky enough to find a used set, but even then I would just be installing sketchy used parts in the car.

I also have a set of pristine Spirit R seats waiting to be installed as well as new headlight lenses and new door handles - All thanks to Ramy at FDNewbie Imports!

I have squandered too much money on this interior.... lol

Suspension
If anyone is interested I will have a full set of suspension arms with low-mileage Mazdaspeed bushings already installed for sale when I get back. I am going to buy a full set of arms to clean up and outfit with SuperPros and then just sell the arms that are on the car now. PM me if interested.

Sold my monstrosity of a front sway bar and plan on purchasing a small RB swaybar to match my rear bar. Both bars will be stripped and powdercoated either mirror black or a dark pearly silver to somewhat match the exterior of the car.

IRS Conversion
I have purchased a spare rear subframe from Fritz and had him mail it to Paul for an FD IRS conversion (thanks again Zach!). The converted subframe and steel plates will go off with Zach's to be powdercoated gloss black once complete. I will need to take my T2 converted diff in to be reispected internally and then take it to a machine shop to have the mounting surface machined for the nose mounting plate. Can't wait!

Exterior
I already ordered the CF Mazdaspeed Rep 99 front lip to match my feed sideskirts. Once I finish up in the engine bay I will take the car over to a body expert to have all of the panels professionally aligned. The front end is a little off right now, but that's because I've yet to install the headlights and make the final hood/bumper/fender adjustments.

Exhaust
I will probably just drop the car off with a fabr that was recommended to me and let him go to town on building me a long tube exaust from headers back.

Brakes
Considering ditching my M2/Willwood ducted BBK setup for the up and coming RB kit. Will have to see how the offerings progress. Thanks again Warren, Howard and Rishie for getting the ball rolling.

Currently geared up for a 929 MC, but may switch back to the stock unit. Looking for feedback from those who have done the conversion. I have all of the flaring tools and know-how to plumb it up, just not sure if I want to go there is all.

I guess that's about all for now.
Old 01-30-07, 04:23 PM
  #155  
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Good to see it's coming along Rob. I would have been interested in those mazdaspeed bushings if I didnt already have some badass superpro bushings on the way.

Also, sending you a PM.
Old 01-30-07, 04:48 PM
  #156  
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holy crap. . .
Old 01-30-07, 05:05 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
Of all the people on the forum to make this comment WOW

With all due respect of course

not a big fan of the black fender...
Old 01-30-07, 06:04 PM
  #158  
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?
Old 02-18-07, 05:24 PM
  #159  
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Progress....



Attached Thumbnails Tomorrow is the big day ;o)-london-union-ball-feb-07-024-medium-.jpg   Tomorrow is the big day ;o)-london-union-ball-feb-07-025-medium-.jpg  
Old 02-18-07, 06:43 PM
  #160  
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Looking nice.

But dam! is that dobble o seven ice?!
Old 02-19-07, 01:34 AM
  #161  
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007 ice louge... that's classic.

About 4-5 yrs. ago I had a big party at my house at college and we got an ice louge. We had it sitting on our deck and used a beat up kitchen table to brace it. The party went off without a hitch- The only problem was the party was during winter in MD and the damn louge wouldn't melt. We ended up having a couple hundred pound block of ice hanging off our deck for like 2 mos.
Old 02-19-07, 03:25 AM
  #162  
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Man, I'm going to get flamed for this... but, is it ok if i say the fact that it's heart has been replaced with that of a USDM V8, to me, makes the rest of the nice work irrelivant?

Sorry... it's a good car, just not my taste.
Old 02-19-07, 05:51 AM
  #163  
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Doesn't bother me at all. I used to be a rotorhead, just like you so I understand where you are coming from. I got tired of changing engines with more frequency than other vehicle owners change spark plugs so I made a change to the Z06 power plant. Does that mean that I think these cars can't be reliable? No it doesn't. It just means that 3 engines was enough for me to call it quits. I wasn't prepared to ditch my favorite car in the name of rotordom, so I put in an engine that I could respect. Doesn't mean everyone has to ;o)
Old 02-19-07, 08:02 AM
  #164  
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Wanklin, your car looks prestine! I would love to strip my car down and make it show car quality like yours but now that I am Married the wife won't let that happen, she wants my time and more stuff for the house.

BTW the widebody looks gooooood. That was all custom right? No fiber glass in there, all metal? Can't stand fiber glass parts they always shift over time.

I have to get the Mezeire water pump, it looks awesome.
Old 02-19-07, 08:41 AM
  #165  
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Yeah I hear ya, at times I find these expenses (time and money) hard to justify to myself, let alone a wife ;o)

Yes, all of the body work is hand-done as you say. The flares were hand fabbed and welded on. I went this route 1) because I couldn't find any flares on the market that suited my taste and spacing requirements and 2) because fiberglass flares are delicate and require filler which expands at a different rate then metal causing deformations in various climates.

The removable fender liners are made of fiberglass.

Thanks for the kind words, I definitley recommend the Meziere for looks and function. Zach has one on his car and he loves it.

I'm starting to consider a custom front subframe at this point which is yet another expense to justify. I'm not happy with Hinson's feedback and have become very paranoid about my front subframe falling apart. I'd also like to lower the engine mounting position and inch or two and possibly switch to a different style mount. I already have access to Noltec GTO mounts so I could go that route.

Paul, perhaps you and I should get together and figure something out. There a lot of people looking for a better solution and there's nothing out there to fill the void at the moment.

Last edited by wanklin; 02-19-07 at 08:50 AM.
Old 02-19-07, 08:48 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by wanklin
Doesn't bother me at all. I used to be a rotorhead, just like you so I understand where you are coming from. I got tired of changing engines with more frequency than other vehicle owners change spark plugs so I made a change to the Z06 power plant. Does that mean that I think these cars can't be reliable? No it doesn't. It just means that 3 engines was enough for me to call it quits. I wasn't prepared to ditch my favorite car in the name of rotordom, so I put in an engine that I could respect. Doesn't mean everyone has to ;o)

just taking the BEST japanese body and mating it with the BEST american engine. thats what i say when people put the vette engines in 7's. great car man. i cant wait to see the final work of art. this is magazine coverage worthy.
Old 02-19-07, 04:19 PM
  #167  
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car looks amazing. good job. amazing job. I can't believe I haven't seen this thread before.
Old 02-19-07, 05:06 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by 2MCHPWR
car looks amazing. good job. amazing job. I can't believe I haven't seen this thread before.
I was admiring yours as well. Nice car. I'm sure that electron blue paint looks stunning on that FD in person.

I'm jealous of your RS cage ;o/
Old 02-19-07, 06:19 PM
  #169  
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thanks dude! i actually sold that rollbar.
Old 02-19-07, 06:23 PM
  #170  
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How's your Hinson gear holding up? Any complaints?
Old 02-19-07, 06:51 PM
  #171  
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love the hinson stuff. no issues and I always check since i drive it hard on race tracks. Mine was first complete car hinson built. Had some minor issues which i took care of (steering bolt in backwards, fuel pump didn't have enough voltage so re-wired it, etc). I just bought the hinson PS conversion and I would recommend the PS although I never tried your malvel (sp) manual conversion. I had the looped stock rack and it took away from driving pleasure.
Old 02-19-07, 07:06 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by wanklin
How's your Hinson gear holding up? Any complaints?

Rob, if it makes you feel any better my wrecked LS1 converted FD with a 'new' (replacement w/ the extra welds) hinson frame was perfectly fine after the wreck, despite the fact the rest of the chassis was bowed into a ">" shape. It bolted right into my new FD.

Worst case for you... you could always have someone reweld everything on the hinson subframe. I'd think this would be cheaper than having someone build a complete custom one. Albiet, the box tubing on Hinsons subframe isnt exactly attractive while nearly everything else on your car likely will be....
Old 02-19-07, 07:17 PM
  #173  
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So the hinson gear has treated you both well it seems, but I'm still sketched out about their quality. Their TA didn't even fit on my diff and their track record is less than spotless.

I have a contact who's a chassis builder that I think I'm going to call up when I get back. I really would like to get the engine lower and ditch the clam shells if possible, though I'm working with Noltec to solve that problem. I'll see what he quotes me and go from there.

So how's your new project coming along Brian?
Old 02-19-07, 07:50 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by wanklin
So the hinson gear has treated you both well it seems, but I'm still sketched out about their quality. Their TA didn't even fit on my diff and their track record is less than spotless.

I have a contact who's a chassis builder that I think I'm going to call up when I get back. I really would like to get the engine lower and ditch the clam shells if possible, though I'm working with Noltec to solve that problem. I'll see what he quotes me and go from there.

So how's your new project coming along Brian?
This project? http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=41083
Old 02-20-07, 08:54 AM
  #175  
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Sorry I meant Bryan Downs. ;o/ Looks pretty good though ;o)


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