Hey there .

My names Matt. I live in nz. And I own a s7 rx7 . One day my motor went pop and dropped and apex seal in the rear housing . I was OK with this as I thought time to upgrade turbos etc anyway .

So I done a whole bunch of mods etc. Brought a brand spanking new s8 motor...
Bridgeport ed end plates. Not the centre
Gt3582r turbo
60mm waste gate
50mm bov
Emissions delete
1000cc injectors all round. new fuel pump. Surge tank.
4" exhaust from the turbo to the different into a 3" muffler.
Gauges etc
So I think you guys get the picture.

The car had a micro tech lt10s and x4 ignitor in it when I brought the car.

So the problem I had when I started the car . It ran fine. Booked it for the dyno and took the car to the dyno to find that it has a misfire at 6.5k rpm. The dreaded miss fire. .....

So this had to be fixed .

New plugs.
New plug wires
New crank angle sensor wiring .
Change to another lt10s .
New x4 ignitor.
Same problem....

So I took the crank trigger wheel off... took the paint off from the factory and boom .my problem is fixed.

So to fix my problem I took the paint off the crank trigger wheel.

Hope this helps some1

 

Did you ever measure the air gap between the stock trigger wheel and pick up sensors? Does your car have a real front cover gasket or does it just have RTV?

 

Why BP and run a smaller turbo like a GT35? 1000cc injectors all around? You won't make much power with that, yet you're running a 4" exhaust? A 60mm WG is WAAAYYYY overkill for your application. Your combination of parts makes me "WTF" more than a Jackie Chan picture.

But I'm glad that you were able to sort your "mystery" problem by modifying a stock trigger wheel that worked perfectly fine for decades of other drivers. I'm sure the OEM treatment of the trigger wheel was the true source of your problems, instead of merely a coincidence.

 

It has a real front cover gasket

 

Lol if your lucky I might post a picture of the dyno sheet when it's done. Maybe.......we will see how I feel . To answer your questions.
1. I like bridgeports.
2. It's not really a small turbo .
3. 4" exhaust ain't overkill. Neither is a 60mm wg.....
4 . And why would it make you WTF. It's logic.........


I also don't see a coincidence. ... the problem was fixed

All good though. Cheers for your thoughts / opinion.

 

Frankly I could care less about what your dyno sheet looks like

I'm no expert, but my guess is you'll see below average power everywhere below 5000rpms, then you'll see a "boost" of power before your turbo falls flat on it's face and you run out of fuel. I'm no expert, but I believe the conventional wisdom is that the bigger you port your intakes the further your powerband moves to the right. BP's are necessary for increasing power on NA cars because it increases the air flow at the top end, at the expense of velocity at the bottom (I think). To increase air flow on a turbo car you just increase the boost, stock or mild street ports are capable of flowing WAY more than your turbo/fuel combination will support.


So what you mean is "I like the "brap" noise it makes.."

People take advantage of a turbo'd BP by going big turbo, big boost, narrow powerband high in the RPM range for applications like drag racing. I don't think you're doing that, not with a GT35r frame and 4x 1000cc injectors..

It really is. It is on the smaller end of medium, when it comes to rotary applications.

I have a full 4" exhaust on my car. Trust me, it's overkill for your application. A decent 44mm WG with proper placement will control boost just fine. 60mm is way overboard.

No, it really isn't. But the guy who sold you everything sure wants you to believe it!

I'm guessing that your problem was due to incorrect gap distance (which you accidentally fixed by removing and reinstalling the wheel) or something that was otherwise gummed up with the sensors/wiring. Removing a protective coating that is applied by the OEM manufacturer is NOT a magical "fix"

 

Time will tell . What power figures would you expect from my "un logic engine build"????

 

Dyno numbers really mean very little. Operator manipulation, elevation, temperature, humidity, pressure, brand, etc., etc., etc. can all play a role in determining the final number. Driveability, reliability, and longevity are really all that matters.

Could you make 500whp with your setup? Sure... Could you make it every day for 50k miles? Fat chance! Whether you make 350, 400, or 435whp really means nothing to me. It's not my car, I don't have to deal with it, or fix it when it breaks, so MY approval really doesn't matter.

 

Good call

 

For what its worth I agree that removing paint is not a fix for anything..

You obviously unknowingly fixed whatever was the issue was when you removed the wheel..the distance from sensor/wheel not seated correctly theory is likely.

Whose doing your turning? Where abouts in NZ are you?

 

I get cars in the shop often that require CAS shimming since they are way out of spec (over 2mm), the cars will run and idle but have a terrible time at high RPMs.

It can come down to the front cover gasket, but I see the plastic tabs on the sensors flatten/deform with age/heat/multiple rebuilds etc. I have actually seen sensors that were only being held in place by the bracket and wiring as the tabs were broken off completely.