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throttlebody coolant line, where is it?

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Old 09-24-03 | 04:58 PM
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ZeroBanger's Avatar
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From: Buckhead
throttlebody coolant line, where is it?

I need your knowledge!!!! I hear about the throttle body coolant line all the time, but can someone actually show me a picture of it? I would really appreciate it. Also, what size hose is it?

Thanks a million.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:14 PM
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From: San Jose
first line is located near firewall adjacent to a vaccum actuator. Second line is below the throttle body right next to the plastic catch can. line is 10mm I.D. FWIW, I bypassed my completely so that no coolant flows thru the TB.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:15 PM
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Je nais parles pas le francais tres bien.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:35 PM
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Here you go:





Even Has a Temp sensor mounted in it!



Ps - Not my car, My AutoMeter sender is in the stock sender location

Last edited by maxpesce; 09-24-03 at 05:37 PM.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:37 PM
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OH cool, thank you both. Thats the hose that cracked on me about a year ago, I think. Well it was one behind the manifold, had to have the manifold taken off to replace, kinda sucked.

Anyway Thanks alot, I'm debating on putting a water temp sensor there or doing the housing thingy.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:37 PM
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From: Scott AFB, IL
Originally posted by maxpesce
Here you go:

Even Has a Temp senso in it!
You know... I had my temp sensor there too... But I never got a reading above like 100F or so... Any idea why?
Old 09-24-03 | 05:42 PM
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From: Buckhead
Originally posted by jdhuegel1
You know... I had my temp sensor there too... But I never got a reading above like 100F or so... Any idea why?
I know why!! I do! I do!!!

sometimes if you use an adapter and your sensor is inside the adapter and doesn't go directly into the stream of water that would cause the problem. For example, lets say you had a 1/8 NPT sender that was placed in a 3/8 adapter to fit into a line, if inside the water line the sender is not extended beyond that 3/8 adapter, you will likely not get accurate readings.

but then again, I'm a New-B that doesn't know crap. Sorry to make you read this.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:48 PM
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First it comes from on top of the engine block and then to the top of the tb. Then it goes through the tb and comes out under it. This is the coolant line you have to take off every time you take off the uim and tb that small 5 incher that's a pain and you always forget. From there it goes to near behind the alternator through a hardline.

I know you probably aren't trying to remove the tb coolant but if you are the simplest way is to take the line that goes from the engine to the top of the tb and make it go straight to the bottom line under the tb. Then just cap both places on the tb where it used to go in and out. It's intended for places where it gets really cold to melt ice out of the tb so you don't need it! Removing it is said to cause the car to idle weird on cold starts. I had it removed for a while and didn't notice any weird idling but now I put it back.
http://robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm for more info.

BTW I would put the temp sensor in the thermostat housing. Have a pro tap it for you in the correct place so you get the highest readings possible.

Werd out Zero

Last edited by Snook; 09-24-03 at 05:52 PM.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:49 PM
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Possibly a bad Ground (you have to ground the sensor body if it mounted in an un-grounded location) or plugged pasages in the throttle body restricting coolant flow.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:52 PM
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From: Dallas
Originally posted by jdhuegel1
You know... I had my temp sensor there too... But I never got a reading above like 100F or so... Any idea why?
As maxpesce said you probably forgot to ground the sender. My probe is in the upper throttle body coolant line like the one in the pic. I grounded the entire tee to provide the sender with a ground.
Old 09-24-03 | 05:55 PM
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That's possible but when my ground came undone the needle pegged itself to 250 or whatever the highest is. I then **** myself and tried to pull over but on the way I hit a bump and it went back to 185 and I figured it out duh damn newbie me.

Old 09-24-03 | 05:57 PM
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From: Buckhead
Originally posted by Snook
That's possible but when my ground came undone the needle pegged itself to 250 or whatever the highest is. I then **** myself and tried to pull over but on the way I hit a bump and it went back to 185 and I figured it out duh damn newbie me.

yes, with my gauge it goes to 355 (the max) if the ground gets disconnected.
Old 09-24-03 | 06:59 PM
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From: Scott AFB, IL
Thanks! I'll be sure to double check the ground.
Old 09-25-03 | 06:27 AM
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From: 250 HZ
so thats why mine stayed at 100F can i put the ground wire on the same spot as the sender or do i can to ground it to the base like the one on the first picture.
Old 09-25-03 | 10:54 AM
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From: Buckhead
Originally posted by KINETIK_FD3S
so thats why mine stayed at 100F can i put the ground wire on the same spot as the sender or do i can to ground it to the base like the one on the first picture.
you ding dong! Just kidding, On your sender you should have a nut on the top with a washer in the middle and maybe even a white or green insulated washer under that. You want the ground to be as far from the pole (the top of the sender) and close to the body of the sender as possible. On mine there is a green insulated grommit that seperates it from the sender, thats where I ground mine.
Old 09-25-03 | 04:13 PM
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From: StL
back to the original topic...is bypassing the TB as easy as getting a double-sided barbed metal tube and hose clamping it to both lines?

-Zach
Old 09-25-03 | 04:42 PM
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From: London
it's as easy as using the original line that's already there and instead of going from the engine block to the top of the tb make it go from the engine block to the line under the tb. Then cap off the place it used to go in and out of the tb and you are done. Removing/Rerouting the coolant flow so it doesn't go in the tb any more.
Old 09-25-03 | 05:07 PM
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yea thats what i was saying, xcept make it that much simpler by connecting the 2 hoses rather than removing one and re-routing the other. I tend to not like doing more work than necessary.

-Zach
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