miami337

So I have been experiencing a sticking/jumping throttle and rough idle which causes intermittent stalling at lights, especially when under load (A/C) etc. So, I followed the thread about checking the voltages on the TPS sensor and my readings were within range for the closed throttle position, but I got little to no difference in readings when the throttle was opened all the way...? Does this mean I need a new $200 sensor? Please somebody tell me otherwise.

Note: I re-read the instructions and found that I did not warm the engine up before the readings were taken , is this a necessary step possibly explaining my readings?

Thanks for any input -

twisted7

iTrader: (3)

I believe the reason for it to be at full operating temperature is so that the Fast idle cam opens up all the way.

here is Damian's thread about the TPS adjustment if you havent already seen it.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...xed+my+bucking

arghx

iTrader: (3)

also check the clutch switch

baggedoutmazda

u won't get full throttle if the temp isn't warm enough to move the throttle cam, i did mine cold with no problems but i've removed all that crap.

miami337

Well, I warmed the FD up this time and all my TPS readings are within the parameters provided in the threads. I adjusted the dashpot and now, the car actually runs smoother with the AC on! What the hell can that mean? I also checked the clutch switch, its fine.

As soon as I turn the AC off it bogs heavy and vibrates pretty hard at idle. It is also idling a bit high, right at about 1100 and when I turn the AC off it increases to about 1400.

The car is stock except for HKS intake, Megan DP and MP.

Any suggestions?

baggedoutmazda

do u still have an air pump? is it working properly? sounds like u could be rich at idle?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Do you have a CEL on?. I had a high idle problem too a while back and the rpm's would stick between 3-4k rpm. Turns out it was a bad TPS, so I got it replaced, and readjusted. The TPS should never have to be adjusted, unless the actual sensor is disassembled, damaged, or it's being replaced. Has the car always had this problem, or did it start recently?

miami337

I do have the airpump and as far as I know it is working properly, how can I tell?

miami337

What is a CEL? I really thought it was a bad TPS too, because of that high idle and sticking around 3-4k. I checked the numbers and they were ok, is there still a chance that is it or not? Unfortunately, I just bought the car so I don't know how long this has been happening...

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

CEL= "Check Engine Light" The ecu actually stores some codes on the system if you have a problem with the TPS. if you have a CEL, just go to fd3s.net, and I believe it has all the codes and tells you how to pull codes yourself with a jumper wire

miami337

Gotcha - Just checked the ECU and all is fine - Any other suggestions, I'm all out of troubleshooting steam here...

miami337

BUMP PLEASE HELP.

All my voltages are OK on the TPS but the symptoms exactly match Damien's thread including the spotty idle and the jumping RPMs. Does anybody know if the sensor might still be bad even if the voltages are in range? Should I just buy a new sensor and try it or is that a waste of money?

Gadd

Have you done a compression check?


Paul

miami337

No I have not done a compression check yet...