Thoughts on Valvoline VV211 racing oil?
#1
Thoughts on Valvoline VV211 racing oil?
All this talk about oils without ZDDP has got me spooked so Im looking at going with full additve race oil.
Amazon has a good deal on VV211 VR1 20-50 racing oil.
Anyone use this or have any thoughts on it?
My FD is slightly modded, stock internals, 35k original miles, 270rwhp, still using OMP.
Thx
Amazon has a good deal on VV211 VR1 20-50 racing oil.
Anyone use this or have any thoughts on it?
My FD is slightly modded, stock internals, 35k original miles, 270rwhp, still using OMP.
Thx
#2
I don't recognize the VV211 denomination but I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil 20W50 for my FD and I even add a zddp additive on top and change it every 2500-3500 miles
60k+ miles, 18psi on stock twins with pfc, stock omp with slightly increased oiling in the pfc and premix with Amsoil Interceptor 2-cycle at 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel.
60k+ miles, 18psi on stock twins with pfc, stock omp with slightly increased oiling in the pfc and premix with Amsoil Interceptor 2-cycle at 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel.
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I don't recognize the VV211 denomination but I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil 20W50 for my FD and I even add a zddp additive on top and change it every 2500-3500 miles
60k+ miles, 18psi on stock twins with pfc, stock omp with slightly increased oiling in the pfc and premix with Amsoil Interceptor 2-cycle at 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel.
60k+ miles, 18psi on stock twins with pfc, stock omp with slightly increased oiling in the pfc and premix with Amsoil Interceptor 2-cycle at 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel.
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On my DD cars I just run cheap 10w 30 or 40 (ie castrol GTX) and change around 2500 miles. Worrying about what oil I put in this car is the least of my concerns because it's probably 50% gas mix after 2k miles LOL.
The zinc additives IMO are snake oil or in other words you don't need it unless you like wasting money. Typically an apex seal, spring, corner/side seal or rusty iron will get you long before a rotor bearing becomes a problem. Instead of spending 25 bucks a month on quality oil and additive put it in your rebuild savings account.
Changing your oil frequently along with quality synth premix is how your car will go over 100k miles if not over boosted, set on fire by a leaky FPD etc.....we have a bigger problems than zinc additives. Oh and I'm pretty sure if you run water injection it will fix most of your problems (and that's sarcasm).
#6
Hard to believe your twins have gone 60k miles at 18 psi that's impressive
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On my DD cars I just run cheap 10w 30 or 40 (ie castrol GTX) and change around 2500 miles. Worrying about what oil I put in this car is the least of my concerns because it's probably 50% gas mix after 2k miles LOL.
The zinc additives IMO are snake oil or in other words you don't need it unless you like wasting money. Typically an apex seal, spring, corner/side seal or rusty iron will get you long before a rotor bearing becomes a problem. Instead of spending 25 bucks a month on quality oil and additive put it in your rebuild savings account.
Changing your oil frequently along with quality synth premix is how your car will go over 100k miles if not over boosted, set on fire by a leaky FPD etc.....we have a bigger problems than zinc additives. Oh and I'm pretty sure if you run water injection it will fix most of your problems (and that's sarcasm).
I couldn't agree with you more Fritz. Lol
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That oil is no good. It has cooling additives that add coolant tracing on the engine. I been doing oil analysis on my car since 2005. I've compared various oils from conventional to semi synthetics and one synthetic oil on my 80k mile mostly stock fd. And even though I don't really feel is the best most honest place... Pettit racing oil or wherever they get their oil from is the best by far. It shows less copper wear which is what most of the rotating parts on the engine wear too. Again this is not just my opinion is based on data. I'm too lazy but one of these days ill post the over 10 oil analysis from my fd,