Thought I had Track worthy Cooling Setup...but guess not
#51
I figured Memphisraines would have posted in this thread by now? Oh well, I spoke with him the other day and is running a t-78, stock dual oil coolers, pettit coolcharge III, koyo radiator, stock undertray and stock ducting on the oil coolers and I know his coolant temps stay under 90C on near 100F track days and his oil temps were around 220 or so.
thewird
#52
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgUyU...e=channel_page
Last edited by djseven; 06-22-09 at 08:56 PM.
#53
When i got my scoot hood the temps dropped dramatically. Ive always wanted to build a Vmount setup where when the hood closes, it seals behind the intercooler with a vacuum inducing backward scoop. Sitting in the car you would be able to look down the hood and see in the scoop...
Force it through, and then suck it out with aerodynamics.
Force it through, and then suck it out with aerodynamics.
#54
13-14lbs on the T78, 25 minutes sessions. He has done about 4-5 track days in the last 2-3 weeks in the car all in 90+ degree heat. If you search the forums he has videos of his track days, I think he even posted a video on this forum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgUyU...e=channel_page
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgUyU...e=channel_page
thewird
#55
You need a diversion panel and you need to full duct your Rad/IC. Youre also running the stock front end apparently which had pretty bad flow. Not that it wont work. Just that mahor gains have been reported simply by switching to the 99spec bumper cover.
#56
Unproven heresay. Too many other factors to point to in cars exhibiting corrosion that used water wetter to simply say it was the wetter that did it.
THE number 1 reason for corrosion in a coolant system is air entrained in the system, ie. you have a small leak somewhere. The added oxygen from the air will interact with the iron and result in corrosion. Coolant by design has anti-corrosive elements/chemical additives in it but once they are consumed over time by the excess oxygen corrosion will commence. Hence why periodic changing of your coolant is necessary. Ever open up a poorly maintained coolant system to seen coolant with a brownish tint? That would be an air leak somewhere and rust of the internal iron parts. Bad juju!
I recently opened up my original 45k mile motor (due to chipped apex seal) that contained water wetter since day one and there was absolutely NO evidence of corrosion ANYWHERE and all the seals were pristine. If water wetter was such a problem, evidence of corrosion would have been everywhere. It was not.
What I can add is that the ORANGE long life coolant should under no circumstances be used as it is not friendly to the AL housings in our engines. I opened up an engine that had the orange coolant and it came out like lumpy jello in the coolant passages where the coolant was slower moving. Yuck!
Anyone care to add to this feel free.
Regards,
Crispy
THE number 1 reason for corrosion in a coolant system is air entrained in the system, ie. you have a small leak somewhere. The added oxygen from the air will interact with the iron and result in corrosion. Coolant by design has anti-corrosive elements/chemical additives in it but once they are consumed over time by the excess oxygen corrosion will commence. Hence why periodic changing of your coolant is necessary. Ever open up a poorly maintained coolant system to seen coolant with a brownish tint? That would be an air leak somewhere and rust of the internal iron parts. Bad juju!
I recently opened up my original 45k mile motor (due to chipped apex seal) that contained water wetter since day one and there was absolutely NO evidence of corrosion ANYWHERE and all the seals were pristine. If water wetter was such a problem, evidence of corrosion would have been everywhere. It was not.
What I can add is that the ORANGE long life coolant should under no circumstances be used as it is not friendly to the AL housings in our engines. I opened up an engine that had the orange coolant and it came out like lumpy jello in the coolant passages where the coolant was slower moving. Yuck!
Anyone care to add to this feel free.
Regards,
Crispy
adam
#57
Well ideas like this get started by someone at some time in history cracking open a 100k+ mile abused engine and finding degraded coolant seals that just happened to have used water wetter. Someone looks at the engine and jumps (incorrectly) to the conclusion that it was the wetter that caused the demise of the engine despite the myriad of other more likely potential causes. It's a shame that we, now, here, unfortunately have little to go on but "I knew a guy, who told a guy, that knew guy, who had a friend, whose brother bought an FD that used water wetter that...like...totally...effed up his engine." And so it is...myth.
I've had in excess of two dozen friends and long time owners of FD's bought when they were originally on the market in 1993 and I'd daresay nary a one would attribute any one of their engine failures to the use of water wetter, which many of them have used.
Use it with confidence. It will drop your coolant temps a few degrees across the operating band as it has done for me. Like I mentioned, I opened up my engine and no hint of any seal degradation and I've used wetter since I bought my car in 1996. And A few other engines that reportedly have used water wetter with no ill effects either.
Apologies for my rambling...and now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
Regards,
Crispy
PS I have no affiliation with Redline other than the fact that I've use water wetter in most of my cars for over a decade.
#59
#61
Per the instructions on the bottle and referencing the FSM for coolant volume I think at one point I determined it was about 3/4 of the bottle. You should double check though just to be sure.
Crispy
Crispy
#62
This is a great thread, I'm learning a lot. Thanks to everyone here.
A few weeks ago, it was about 70+ deg.F outside.
I was stuck in traffic and realized my water temp went up to 129 deg.C., which is supposed to be way too hot and dangerous.
I shut off the engine, popped the hood in the shade and cooled it down.
My car was fine, but... dang... it was scary as hell.
A few weeks ago, it was about 70+ deg.F outside.
I was stuck in traffic and realized my water temp went up to 129 deg.C., which is supposed to be way too hot and dangerous.
I shut off the engine, popped the hood in the shade and cooled it down.
My car was fine, but... dang... it was scary as hell.
#63
I figured Memphisraines would have posted in this thread by now? Oh well, I spoke with him the other day and is running a t-78, stock dual oil coolers, pettit coolcharge III, koyo radiator, stock undertray and stock ducting on the oil coolers and I know his coolant temps stay under 90C on near 100F track days and his oil temps were around 220 or so.
13-14lbs on the T78, 25 minutes sessions. He has done about 4-5 track days in the last 2-3 weeks in the car all in 90+ degree heat. If you search the forums he has videos of his track days, I think he even posted a video on this forum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgUyU...e=channel_page
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgUyU...e=channel_page
To the OP, as everyone has beat into the ground, ducting ducting ducting. I also drill my thermostats on twin turbo cars to help with cooling(Crispy's the man when it comes to great ideas like that), but not as much as Crispy. Although, I really think you could completely remove the middle piece(the actual thermostat) and leave the outer edge for sealing and a little regulation and you would be better off on the track. People will argue it will take longer to heat the car up, but it'll get to operating temp. in no time. All I know is that I grew up around racing and I know plenty of people that do this. I also think removing all of the stuff surrounding the radiator, whether it's on or off, makes a larger difference than alot of people think. Every car that I've owned that had the A/C and PS removed has ran cooler and more consistent.
Twin Turbo's are going to generate more heat than the single's do. The best set up twin turbo car that I've seen in regards to heat is SPICcnmFD's(Chris) car. His car doesn't get above 93C I don't believe on the track. We were both at the NASA event at Barber less than a month ago. He was racing TT that weekend as he normally does. I've never been able to get a twin turbo car to do that, but I've never put the time into that he has.
Just for good measure, here is my engine bay. It's dirty as always:
#64
In Toronto, gonna be at Mosport July 1st if your interested ^_^.
http://www.kensairacing.com/index.ph...id=track_event
I ran a similar setup to the above and ran slightly hotter then when I did my V-mount conversion. I run dual 25 row oil coolers too.
thewird
http://www.kensairacing.com/index.ph...id=track_event
I ran a similar setup to the above and ran slightly hotter then when I did my V-mount conversion. I run dual 25 row oil coolers too.
thewird
#66
update:
So tomorrow I will be going to Streets of Willow again and the temps are too be 100+.
I have done the following updates to my car:
-removed a/c condensor
-made ducting for I/C and Radiator
-Installed Pineapple Racing Idler pulley
-Installed EBC yellowstuff brake pads which replaced axxis ultimates
I will be running 10psi again and I will post my water/air temp results. Hopefully I dont go over 100c; that is my goal.
So tomorrow I will be going to Streets of Willow again and the temps are too be 100+.
I have done the following updates to my car:
-removed a/c condensor
-made ducting for I/C and Radiator
-Installed Pineapple Racing Idler pulley
-Installed EBC yellowstuff brake pads which replaced axxis ultimates
I will be running 10psi again and I will post my water/air temp results. Hopefully I dont go over 100c; that is my goal.
#67
Looks like you need some of our oil coolers:
https://www.rx7club.com/fdnewbie-imports-172/gb-93-95-99-spec-sakebomb-garage-oil-cooler-kits-839910/
/shameless plug
https://www.rx7club.com/fdnewbie-imports-172/gb-93-95-99-spec-sakebomb-garage-oil-cooler-kits-839910/
/shameless plug
#69
You have a second radiator in your cooling system that works great to stabilized your temps on the track.
Your heater core.
Since you normally have to run with the windowns down, I turn my heater **** to full hot & direct the heat to my feet.
It's amazing how stable & low my temps stay on 80+ degree track day. Granted, if your in the pits or waiting in line to start, you will feel the heat.
Your heater core.
Since you normally have to run with the windowns down, I turn my heater **** to full hot & direct the heat to my feet.
It's amazing how stable & low my temps stay on 80+ degree track day. Granted, if your in the pits or waiting in line to start, you will feel the heat.
#71
#72
So:
Well I def enjoyed the car more and focused more on learing the track and getting the line down versus tripping out over my water temps.
My car at first was steady at 97c in the morning but later on during the hottest part of the day (102f) I did hit 105c but I was really pushing my car. Im still not happy at all! Better tahn before, but I still want to make my car run alittle bit cooler. Maybe oil cooler kit? I already have dual ducted r1 oil coolers but I will research on that.
EBC yellowstuff brakes with motul 600 worked beautifully. NO fade at all.
------For those of you interested: My lap time was ~1:35 which is not too good. I still need to smooth out my braking and follow the line better. Tires became an issue also. (Im running 225/50/16 RE0-1R's) and I need more grip overall but more so in the back.
Well I def enjoyed the car more and focused more on learing the track and getting the line down versus tripping out over my water temps.
My car at first was steady at 97c in the morning but later on during the hottest part of the day (102f) I did hit 105c but I was really pushing my car. Im still not happy at all! Better tahn before, but I still want to make my car run alittle bit cooler. Maybe oil cooler kit? I already have dual ducted r1 oil coolers but I will research on that.
EBC yellowstuff brakes with motul 600 worked beautifully. NO fade at all.
------For those of you interested: My lap time was ~1:35 which is not too good. I still need to smooth out my braking and follow the line better. Tires became an issue also. (Im running 225/50/16 RE0-1R's) and I need more grip overall but more so in the back.