For those with the Home depot boost controller
05-14-03, 06:49 PM
#1
For those with the Home depot boost controller
I installed one today for temparary use.
I was wondering how far everyone has to turn theirs open to get 10psi.
I am running full non sequential on a set of the newer 99 spec twins.
I may have wired back my precontrol door wrong.
I couldnt tell what was open and what was shut.
I think that I wired it shut.
I'm not sure that it even matters which way you have it.
Anyway I had to open the controller up about 2 3/4 turns to get 10psi.
Any insight anyone?
I was wondering how far everyone has to turn theirs open to get 10psi.
I am running full non sequential on a set of the newer 99 spec twins.
I may have wired back my precontrol door wrong.
I couldnt tell what was open and what was shut.
I think that I wired it shut.
I'm not sure that it even matters which way you have it.
Anyway I had to open the controller up about 2 3/4 turns to get 10psi.
Any insight anyone?
05-14-03, 07:00 PM
#3
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
They are not that acurate. Start with the precontrol in the middle, then start messing the the boost valve. I've had two sets and both were different. For more boost close (turn clockwise) the valve but counterclockwise for more boost after transition. The precontrol will adjust the secondary boost and will effect how much boost on the 1st turbo and how much on both after transition. You can change your boost pattern like a teeter-totter. If you've got the cash buy this one instead http://www.turbosmart.com.au
05-14-03, 07:40 PM
#4
Originally posted by GoRacer
They are not that acurate. Start with the precontrol in the middle, then start messing the the boost valve. I've had two sets and both were different. For more boost close (turn clockwise) the valve but counterclockwise for more boost after transition. The precontrol will adjust the secondary boost and will effect how much boost on the 1st turbo and how much on both after transition. You can change your boost pattern like a teeter-totter. If you've got the cash buy this one instead http://www.turbosmart.com.au
They are not that acurate. Start with the precontrol in the middle, then start messing the the boost valve. I've had two sets and both were different. For more boost close (turn clockwise) the valve but counterclockwise for more boost after transition. The precontrol will adjust the secondary boost and will effect how much boost on the 1st turbo and how much on both after transition. You can change your boost pattern like a teeter-totter. If you've got the cash buy this one instead http://www.turbosmart.com.au
Using the prespool controller makes things much more difficult to adjust. Don't put it in if you don't need it.
Adam
05-14-03, 07:45 PM
#5
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
^ the precontrol valve can adjust boost. That's why I said to start in the middle. If you close it all the way, you will have higher 1st turbo boost and lower after transition boost. If you open it all the way, you'll have low boost before transition and high boost afterwards. That's was my meaning of the teeter-totter statement.
05-14-03, 08:30 PM
#6
From Rob Robinette's website:
Secondary Turbo Pre-Spool Controller
You can also replace the other restrictor in the turbo precontrol hose. If you do this you will be able to control how much the secondary turbo spools up before it comes on line. That allows you to reduce it's 4500 rpm boost spike.
Entire text located here:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm
Secondary Turbo Pre-Spool Controller
You can also replace the other restrictor in the turbo precontrol hose. If you do this you will be able to control how much the secondary turbo spools up before it comes on line. That allows you to reduce it's 4500 rpm boost spike.
Entire text located here:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm
05-14-03, 08:30 PM
#7
I'm nonsequential fellas.
Precontrol doesnt apply to me as I have no precontrol.
My door is wired shut. I dont even have a precontrol actuator on the turbos anymore. I removed it when I rebuilt the engine.
I know that some of the pressure is venting through the shitty controller.
I think that i just wired the door open instead of closed.
Im picking up a turbosmart boost controller tomorrow, and gonna weld the flapper shut this weekend.
So thanks anywho.
Precontrol doesnt apply to me as I have no precontrol.
My door is wired shut. I dont even have a precontrol actuator on the turbos anymore. I removed it when I rebuilt the engine.
I know that some of the pressure is venting through the shitty controller.
I think that i just wired the door open instead of closed.
Im picking up a turbosmart boost controller tomorrow, and gonna weld the flapper shut this weekend.
So thanks anywho.
Trending Topics
05-14-03, 08:36 PM
#8
Originally posted by adam c
From Rob Robinette's website:
Secondary Turbo Pre-Spool Controller
You can also replace the other restrictor in the turbo precontrol hose. If you do this you will be able to control how much the secondary turbo spools up before it comes on line. That allows you to reduce it's 4500 rpm boost spike.
Entire text located here:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm
From Rob Robinette's website:
Secondary Turbo Pre-Spool Controller
You can also replace the other restrictor in the turbo precontrol hose. If you do this you will be able to control how much the secondary turbo spools up before it comes on line. That allows you to reduce it's 4500 rpm boost spike.
Entire text located here:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm
05-14-03, 08:40 PM
#9
Originally posted by GoRacer
^ the precontrol valve can adjust boost. That's why I said to start in the middle. If you close it all the way, you will have higher 1st turbo boost and lower after transition boost. If you open it all the way, you'll have low boost before transition and high boost afterwards. That's was my meaning of the teeter-totter statement.
^ the precontrol valve can adjust boost. That's why I said to start in the middle. If you close it all the way, you will have higher 1st turbo boost and lower after transition boost. If you open it all the way, you'll have low boost before transition and high boost afterwards. That's was my meaning of the teeter-totter statement.
05-14-03, 09:54 PM
#12
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally posted by turbogarrett
i think you're refering to a sequential system. wasn't this thread about boost problems on a non sequential setup?
i think you're refering to a sequential system. wasn't this thread about boost problems on a non sequential setup?
Anyhow, please update on the Turbosmart boost controller. To be able to adjust the bost inside the car is well worth $100!
05-14-03, 10:18 PM
#13
Originally posted by GoRacer
Yeah, I didn't notice he said he was parallel. D'oh!
Anyhow, please update on the Turbosmart boost controller. To be able to adjust the bost inside the car is well worth $100!
Yeah, I didn't notice he said he was parallel. D'oh!
Anyhow, please update on the Turbosmart boost controller. To be able to adjust the bost inside the car is well worth $100!
We'll see.
Jedon, I'm wondering how much the controller vents off. I have a large street port and I ported the exhaust ports open some also without porting the wastegate. So theorectially (i think thats right
) I should be over boosting and getting a **** load of boost creep. I'll let you know how i get it straightened out.
-Dave
Im just lucky that way i guess hehe
05-15-03, 07:44 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm non seq and I get rid of my home depot special and started using a dawesdevice bleeder valves. I get perfect boost (my wastegate is ported though) with no creep.
http://www.dawesdevices.com
Ramon
http://www.dawesdevices.com
Ramon
05-15-03, 08:35 AM
#22
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Hey FD3Boost...I had the Team Home Depot Boost Controler on both the the PC & WC...it's a Biiiaaaaaaatch to keep boost in one place...I don't know if it's getting vibrated out of position but it seems like when I had them the the boost was all over the place...I recently got the profec b and love the hell out of it...Highly recommended, awesome price for what you get too!..
05-15-03, 10:02 AM
#23
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Bimingham, AL
Posts: 4,413
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've ran a HD valve for about 2 months now and have ran everything from 10psi up to 20psi in seq and non seq. Recently so that I could get a little better spool with the HD valve when running high boost I added a 2nd valve to vent the actuator so that it would see 7psi and start to open till my actual boost was up real high. That works ok too if your going to run high boost but its not perfect.
I just bought a Hallman boost controller, its VERY nice but at $100 its kina pricey for a manual. When you see it though the price is more understandable. It comes with a mounting bracket and everything else you need. You can also get a upgrade kit for it that I think is $60 and it moves the **** inside the car which is pretty cool.
Anyway, just tought I'd share.
STEPHEN
I just bought a Hallman boost controller, its VERY nice but at $100 its kina pricey for a manual. When you see it though the price is more understandable. It comes with a mounting bracket and everything else you need. You can also get a upgrade kit for it that I think is $60 and it moves the **** inside the car which is pretty cool.
Anyway, just tought I'd share.
STEPHEN
05-15-03, 10:10 AM
#24
Slave2TheFD
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Nevada City, CA
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I know I'm lame for still having the precat with a midpipe, I had a deal going on a single turbo kit so I sold my downpipe, then the deal fell through and my new engine took all my money. Oh well, soon I shall get another downpipe.
05-15-03, 09:06 PM
#25
Originally posted by apneablue
Hey FD3Boost...I had the Team Home Depot Boost Controler on both the the PC & WC...it's a Biiiaaaaaaatch to keep boost in one place...I don't know if it's getting vibrated out of position but it seems like when I had them the the boost was all over the place...I recently got the profec b and love the hell out of it...Highly recommended, awesome price for what you get too!..
Hey FD3Boost...I had the Team Home Depot Boost Controler on both the the PC & WC...it's a Biiiaaaaaaatch to keep boost in one place...I don't know if it's getting vibrated out of position but it seems like when I had them the the boost was all over the place...I recently got the profec b and love the hell out of it...Highly recommended, awesome price for what you get too!..
Anyway. I picked up a turbosmart controller today. I also got under the car again and see that in fact I wired the door ope Dohh!!
So I got that shut and wired back down and the new controller installed.
Man is my **** silly fast now!! With the ported engine, straight exhaust, flywheel and all the odds and ends that were done. It feels like a totaly different car. Thanks for all the info guys.
Last edited by Fd3BOOST; 05-15-03 at 09:09 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Skeese
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
65
03-28-17 03:30 PM
