Tearing down my FD
#102
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the only box i could find was way too big, so it ended up costing $45. because it was the size it was, it was outside the "maximum size" of the cheaper, quicker shipping. with the proper-sized box, it'd cost a lot less and be a lot quicker. USPS Global Priority i think (the one that is not "express" is the quicker one, and cheaper i think).
#103
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it's been a while since i posted in my thread. i'm cutting back on a lot of the things i had planned so i can help my wife get another vehicle (her Pathfinder was totaled recently). that said, here's what's happened since i last posted.
i used the plastic block-off "stereo delete" plate i already had to mount my turbo timer and battery kill switch (the battery will be in the passenger-side storage bin, a la moconner's - sorry if i got the name wrong - relocation write-up, so the kill switch is in an ideal position now). it's nothing fancy, but it does the job just fine for now.
i just pulled my steering rack out so i can convert it to a "true" manual steering rack. here's another thread (and a couple pics) concerning the tie end rod bolts in case anyone needs the info clicky
i just started porting my engine. i'm attempting this on my own, just like everything else! i used Pineapple Racing's "Medium Streetport" template.
before - stock port, with the red area being the section to be ported:
after - Pineapple Racing Medium Streetport, done by your's truly:
the opening is a good deal smoother than it looks, the reflection off the ported surfaces at various angles gives it a pretty rough-looking line in the pic.
when i do button the engine back up, i have Garfinkle's oil pan brace to help keep it in shape:
i used the plastic block-off "stereo delete" plate i already had to mount my turbo timer and battery kill switch (the battery will be in the passenger-side storage bin, a la moconner's - sorry if i got the name wrong - relocation write-up, so the kill switch is in an ideal position now). it's nothing fancy, but it does the job just fine for now.
i just pulled my steering rack out so i can convert it to a "true" manual steering rack. here's another thread (and a couple pics) concerning the tie end rod bolts in case anyone needs the info clicky
i just started porting my engine. i'm attempting this on my own, just like everything else! i used Pineapple Racing's "Medium Streetport" template.
before - stock port, with the red area being the section to be ported:
after - Pineapple Racing Medium Streetport, done by your's truly:
the opening is a good deal smoother than it looks, the reflection off the ported surfaces at various angles gives it a pretty rough-looking line in the pic.
when i do button the engine back up, i have Garfinkle's oil pan brace to help keep it in shape:
#105
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You aren't finished with those ports, are you? There's a *lot* more work still to be done on them . Grinding off the casting inside the runners, and smoothing the bowl area in the transition from the runners to the port itself......there's a reason why shops charge a lot of money for porting, it's time consuming
#106
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i'm going to go over it again to smooth things out in the runners, yes, but i'm trying not to go overboard with it as i'll be running the stock ECU for a little while, and the stock turbos as well. if i open it up too much, i'm worried about burning out the turbos, not to mention the consequences for running the stock ECU. i'll be swapping out the ECU as soon as i can, but til then, better safe than sorry.
#107
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Originally Posted by telum01
i'm going to go over it again to smooth things out in the runners, yes, but i'm trying not to go overboard with it as i'll be running the stock ECU for a little while, and the stock turbos as well. if i open it up too much, i'm worried about burning out the turbos, not to mention the consequences for running the stock ECU. i'll be swapping out the ECU as soon as i can, but til then, better safe than sorry.
You have a lot of "smoothing" to do! Are you putting it back together too???? lol
#110
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I like! I may be going an entirely different direction with my FC, but it looks like youre doing a bitching job with everything so far. Props man! That center console looks bad ***!
Now you just need to finish up that rebuild, but I have faith. Youve done fine so far!
Now you just need to finish up that rebuild, but I have faith. Youve done fine so far!
#112
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Originally Posted by Compilez
Wow, the stitching on the center console is BAD ***!!
Originally Posted by Rotary Noob
I like! I may be going an entirely different direction with my FC, but it looks like youre doing a bitching job with everything so far. Props man! That center console looks bad ***!
Now you just need to finish up that rebuild, but I have faith. Youve done fine so far!
Now you just need to finish up that rebuild, but I have faith. Youve done fine so far!
Originally Posted by dubulup
I missed these...this looks awesome!
#114
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as cool as that would be, i don't see how it'd be feasible. there isn't a good place to "tuck" the edge of the leather closest to the driver. the only place i could see is that small seam where the two plastic pieces that form the cluster hood, but the thickness of the leather would keep the two pieces from fitting together properly.... *unless* you were to make a frame, maybe out of carbon fiber or something, to lay over the face of the gauge cluster itself. the leather cover could tuck behind that and the "frame" would not only hold the leather down, but also snazz up your interior that much more. that'd be one helluva project...
#115
I
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Look at Aston Martins. they have have in my opinion the best interior and they have stitching all over the place, not leather mind you.. but still looks so good..
look at the new DBS (from Casino Royale) and its so pretty on the inside.....
Good Job keep up the sweet work.. cant wait to see it finnished..
Prôdigy
look at the new DBS (from Casino Royale) and its so pretty on the inside.....
Good Job keep up the sweet work.. cant wait to see it finnished..
Prôdigy
#116
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7 1/2 months later, there's progress! a lot has happened since my last update, and the FD had to be put to the side. however, i've finally been able to get the ball rolling again. the hardest part about getting started again is that it's been such a long time since i even touched the car that it takes a little bit to remember where everything is, and where it all goes.
the whole purpose of this car is for me to learn the ins and outs of it. i'm by no means an expert, i'm just an amateur. i've done all the work myself, with a couple friends lending an extra hand here or there. i know a lot of this isn't perfect. but hey, it's my first time taking on a project like this. anyway, here are some updates...
here's a pic of the finished porting
some engine shots
the whole purpose of this car is for me to learn the ins and outs of it. i'm by no means an expert, i'm just an amateur. i've done all the work myself, with a couple friends lending an extra hand here or there. i know a lot of this isn't perfect. but hey, it's my first time taking on a project like this. anyway, here are some updates...
here's a pic of the finished porting
some engine shots
#120
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hit a slight snag, details here: fuel injector problem
otherwise, rat's nest is on and i've started with the vacuum lines
otherwise, rat's nest is on and i've started with the vacuum lines
#122
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it doesn't have a pre-cat. it's the cat-less JDM downpipe. the downpipe with the pre-cat has has a huge middle section where the pre-cat is.
#124
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oops, guess i should have updated this thread.
the car is back on the road! there's a slight vacuum boost somewhere, and i'm 99% sure it's something very simple like a tear in a rubber cap. however, since the engine is still breaking in and it's still using the stock ECU, i'm leaving it alone to keep it from hitting too much boost. it idles fine, but not perfect, and drives very well, but doesn't hit full boost (both problems because of the vacuum/boost leak). otherwise it's great. it pulls very hard considering it doesn't get full boost.
i also changed out a ton of the smaller things, like the shifter bushings and seals. this one, for example, should give you a pretty good idea about the condition a lot of the bushings and seals were in.
here's a vid of the very first start up. it was a pain to turn over at first just because of the old gas that was in it (the gas was 14-15 months old). i drained all the old gas and put in new gas, but there was still old gas in the lines. now that all the gas is worked out of the system, it starts up just fine.
i've driven it a few times, and it runs pretty well. but i'm actually going to sell it. i have a thread in the RX7's For Sale section. i had a lot of plans for the car but they're just not in the cards right now, so i'll try again once i'm in a better situation to do so.
the car is back on the road! there's a slight vacuum boost somewhere, and i'm 99% sure it's something very simple like a tear in a rubber cap. however, since the engine is still breaking in and it's still using the stock ECU, i'm leaving it alone to keep it from hitting too much boost. it idles fine, but not perfect, and drives very well, but doesn't hit full boost (both problems because of the vacuum/boost leak). otherwise it's great. it pulls very hard considering it doesn't get full boost.
i also changed out a ton of the smaller things, like the shifter bushings and seals. this one, for example, should give you a pretty good idea about the condition a lot of the bushings and seals were in.
here's a vid of the very first start up. it was a pain to turn over at first just because of the old gas that was in it (the gas was 14-15 months old). i drained all the old gas and put in new gas, but there was still old gas in the lines. now that all the gas is worked out of the system, it starts up just fine.
i've driven it a few times, and it runs pretty well. but i'm actually going to sell it. i have a thread in the RX7's For Sale section. i had a lot of plans for the car but they're just not in the cards right now, so i'll try again once i'm in a better situation to do so.