Been looking at options for where to attach an oil temperature sender.

1) tap oil cooler return banjo bolt (con: depending on length of sender, could impede oil flow, also the point of COOLEST oil)

2) replace oil drain bolt with sender bolt (con: makes changing the oil difficult, plus I already have a quick oil drain valve there, is point of hottest oil though)

3) oil filter sandwich adapter (con: makes changing the oil filter difficult, might not be able to use my 3" filters, and may need to remove TPS everytime you need to change the filter, also point of coolest oil)

4) respeed oil pedestal ($124 from REspeed, also point of coolest oil)

so all the options above seem to have their own reasons on why they aren't the best options, so my idea is simple, drill and tap the oil pan and install a oil temperature probe there.

Tapping the oil pan seems to be a very common in aftermarket turbo applications on stock non-turbo cars for the turbo oil return, unless the FD's oil pan is unusually thin or weak, I don't see why I can't find any threads on anyone doing it here.

howard coleman did something similar here: https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/easy-oil-temperature-oil-pressure-762160/ where he replaced the oil level unit with a bung for a temperature sender, but my oil level sensor still works so I don't want to get rid of that either.

Thoughts?

 

My oil temp sender is in the drain plug. The sender wire is a female spade connector that clips to the male spade connector on the drain plug sender. Just pull it off, and changing the oil is no different than normal.

 

If you DID install it separate from the drain plug, personally I would not just tap it. I'd want to weld in a bung. And to do that the pan should be off the car. The pan is solid enough for welding, but there's not enough to tap.

 

If you are going to go right to the pan, do yourself a favor and WELD in a bung (or take it somewhere to have it done). I've dealt with too much bs from turbo conversions.

 

I have this right now and would rather not have to give it up. The Fumoto valve lets me drain my oil just by turning the lever. Oil changes have never been easier nor quicker.

 

Welding a bung on is definitely the safest way, though not the easiest as from what I've been reading, dropping the oil pan is not that simple a task.

 

how come nobody tee's the line going into the oil cooler either?



I'd think this is the most important place to be reading oil temps from too.

I had done something similar to my old Suzuki Katana, but those were hardlines and I was able to flare the lines to tee in a temperature gauge.

 

More info? Where you got it, part# so on?

 

Personally, I would rather have post oil cooler numbers. The highest number doesn't do much good if you don't know the effect you oil cooling has... I would recommend either have a probe on both sides of the oil cooler or only on the cool side so you at least know how effective your current oil cooling solution really is....

 

#1 is the easiest.

or maybe the RB sandwich deal.

most of the oil temp numbers are taken from the cold side. and while there isn't a wrong answer here, since the engine uses the oil for cooling, the inlet temp is important.

 

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Model F106

 

Oil pan is a good place, either use the drain plug or add a bung as stated. I think some of the Japanese companies have replacement drain plugs that are already tapped for 1/8" NPT or BSPT.

I had an oil temp sender in the banjo bolt for the oil cooler a while back. I always had seeping leaks there, even with teflon tape. It was a REAL slow leak, but when it took out my heater hose I was done with it at that point and took it out. It's trickier to seal up on the pressure side, you're looking at 120psi, oil pan is just atmospheric.

If you do use the oil pan, make sure it's low enough to always be submerged in oil but not so low that it will hang below the subframe where it could get ripped off going over a bump or road hazard.

Dale