Switching from Synthetic back to Conventional Oil..
#1
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Switching from Synthetic back to Conventional Oil..
I have purchased a pair of BNR Stage 3 twins and will need to switch from Synthetic (have been running Mobil 1) back to Dino..
There are countless threads over the difference between dino and synthetic oils, I think it is pretty much established that modern synthetics are not bad for your engine. What I have *not* seen however is the result of swapping from synth to dino... I know the word on the street has always been that changing oil types is pretty much a one way street... going from dino --> synthetic is ok, but going synthetic --> Dino is bad for your engine.
Does the same still hold true with all the improvements in modern synthetics?
Honestly I would not be even mildly interested in swapping back except that BNR Stage 3's > Stock HT12's, and the BNR's require dino.
So whats the word from the experts? I realize that when I change to dino the first time I won't get a full oil flush (oil cooler and lines will still have Mobil 1) so will probably do two changes in the space of a day or two in order to get a good flush.
Can anybody confirm or, no ****, put to rest the rumor that going back to conventional oil is detrimental?
Also, for the guys still using regular oil, do you have any preferences, or anybody notice one brand/type being significantly better than the others?
Thanks,
Levi
There are countless threads over the difference between dino and synthetic oils, I think it is pretty much established that modern synthetics are not bad for your engine. What I have *not* seen however is the result of swapping from synth to dino... I know the word on the street has always been that changing oil types is pretty much a one way street... going from dino --> synthetic is ok, but going synthetic --> Dino is bad for your engine.
Does the same still hold true with all the improvements in modern synthetics?
Honestly I would not be even mildly interested in swapping back except that BNR Stage 3's > Stock HT12's, and the BNR's require dino.
So whats the word from the experts? I realize that when I change to dino the first time I won't get a full oil flush (oil cooler and lines will still have Mobil 1) so will probably do two changes in the space of a day or two in order to get a good flush.
Can anybody confirm or, no ****, put to rest the rumor that going back to conventional oil is detrimental?
Also, for the guys still using regular oil, do you have any preferences, or anybody notice one brand/type being significantly better than the others?
Thanks,
Levi
#2
Don't know why you're thinking of switching to dino oil? Dino oil leaves a carbon deposit layer at high temperatures while synthetic won't. It may not be in the best interests in lubing the turbos...but I will get a host of opinions on this.
Anyways, I took apart the stock twin turbos, one that had dino oil and another run by synthetic. The turbo with dino oil was all black, the synthetic was clean....so I would remain using synthetic. Just my two cents worth
Anyways, I took apart the stock twin turbos, one that had dino oil and another run by synthetic. The turbo with dino oil was all black, the synthetic was clean....so I would remain using synthetic. Just my two cents worth
#3
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I would be all about keeping synthetic in there, except that I am upgrading my turbo's to the BNR Stage 3 twins.
On his website (http://www.bnrturbos.com/3rdGen.htm) Bryan clearly states NOT to use synthetic oil with the turbo's b/c of the carbon seals. Twice =P
On his website (http://www.bnrturbos.com/3rdGen.htm) Bryan clearly states NOT to use synthetic oil with the turbo's b/c of the carbon seals. Twice =P
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I thought that if the turbos came with dynamic seals then you could use synthetic. They don't originally come like that, but you could have them made like that for a premium, i believe. I think Goodfellas' BNRs were like that.
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I have looked into purchasing BNR Stage 3's and am familiar with Brian's warning on use of synthetic oil with carbon seals. I guess the implication is that synthetic oil will somehow damage the seals.
After doing some internet surfing, I couldn't find any other source that supports this (either the claim that synthetic oil damages carbon seals or a warning not to use synthetic with carbon seals). Other turbocharger manufacturers offer carbon seals but I couldn't find any that warned about what type of oil to use. Gas turbines have been using carbon seals with synthetic oil for decades.
Also, considering the vast array of synthetic oils (full, blends, different concentrations of synthetic ingredients, different "base" stocks, etc.), a universal claim would seem unlikely.
Maybe someone can shed some light on this (Brian?).
After doing some internet surfing, I couldn't find any other source that supports this (either the claim that synthetic oil damages carbon seals or a warning not to use synthetic with carbon seals). Other turbocharger manufacturers offer carbon seals but I couldn't find any that warned about what type of oil to use. Gas turbines have been using carbon seals with synthetic oil for decades.
Also, considering the vast array of synthetic oils (full, blends, different concentrations of synthetic ingredients, different "base" stocks, etc.), a universal claim would seem unlikely.
Maybe someone can shed some light on this (Brian?).
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#8
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*please* read the original post before responding, it helps keep the thread on the correct subject.
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I just shot Bryan an e-mail about the dynamic seals, also linked this thread.
Hope he can shed some light on the reason for non-synth with the carbon seals. At the least I will add in the correct answer as I come across it.
Thanks for the input so far guys!
Cheers,
Levi
#9
Sua Sponte
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Or why anyone would bring up suspension spring questions... or where to get a throwout bearing...
The forum is here to help ppl. 95% of the questions asked here have already been covered a million times to include yours... and mine for that matter. It's not going to do anything but help if you keep the sidebar to yourself and only offer informative posts that directly pertain to the question asked.
#10
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I run castrol GTX (like many other dino guys on the board) - 10w-30 in the winter, 20w-50 in the summer (gets pretty hot in NC), although many guys just run 10w-30 year round.
#11
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I feel the only people who should post in this thread from now on are those who HAVE BNRs with or without dynamic seals or are curious about this issue also. If you have nothing to add to this thread then don't bother posting. The original thread starter doesn't care about what oil YOU run unless you have BNRs. He doesn't care if you think synthetic is better. That is not what he's asking. So, lets keep it on topic. Hopefully Bryan can shed some light on the topic...
-Jeff
-Jeff
#12
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I feel the only people who should post in this thread from now on are those who HAVE BNRs with or without dynamic seals or are curious about this issue also. If you have nothing to add to this thread then don't bother posting. The original thread starter doesn't care about what oil YOU run unless you have BNRs. He doesn't care if you think synthetic is better. That is not what he's asking. So, lets keep it on topic. Hopefully Bryan can shed some light on the topic...
-Jeff
-Jeff
It was not, however, my intention to make this thread exclusive to only current, prospective or former BNR owners.
I do sincerely appreciate your backing in support of keeping this thread from wandering off the intended subject though.
#13
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Someone posted the same earlier...IMHO it doesnt make a difference what oil is used as long as changes are frequent. I change oil every 1000 miles & use the standard 10-30W aswell as Protek every other tankfull. Iv never changed types so cant comment but i do run BNR's
#14
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I will include the reasons why synthetic and the carbon seals of the BNR Stage 3's don't mix when I learn them.
My main concern is not so much which type (synth or dino) oil is best for the car, nor is it how often (regularly) to change the oil. I am worried what, if any, possible ramifications there are in going from regularly running full synthetic to going completely back to Mineral Oil. And yes, which kind (if any) of mineral oil is the preferred one (Castrol GTX has been mentioned, and I saw Motul on another thread).
Thanks guys =)
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This is what I emailed to Levi so I will share it with you guys. This is my opinion so don't start a big fuss on here about oil!!!!
As for synthetics, they break down carbon and another charactoristic of the synthetic oil is it doesn't bond to O rings. So if there is any imperfect seal it will amplify blow by. For 1 the carbon seal is made of carbon, and number 2 there is an internal O ring which is inside the carbon seal assembly. Regular oils cling to O rings increasing sealing ability. The regular oil also doesn't have agents in them causing the oil system to constantly "flush" which is definitely bad on carbon! Those 2 things (O ring/carbon seal)that are vital for the turbo to seal up on the compressor side are greatly affected by sythetic oils. Hope that helps explain the situation.
The best way to introduce a change in my opinion is by going to a synthetic blend which is an in between oil. Then go back to the dino oil. Then you just run for a tank or so then drain again. Make sure you change the oil filter every time you drain. Sythetics will even try and wash all the oil coolers clean. Then just change the oil every 1500 or so miles until the sythetic oil is dilluted from the system. When you drain the pan, there is still synthetic in your coolers and cooler lines.
Bryan@BNR
As for synthetics, they break down carbon and another charactoristic of the synthetic oil is it doesn't bond to O rings. So if there is any imperfect seal it will amplify blow by. For 1 the carbon seal is made of carbon, and number 2 there is an internal O ring which is inside the carbon seal assembly. Regular oils cling to O rings increasing sealing ability. The regular oil also doesn't have agents in them causing the oil system to constantly "flush" which is definitely bad on carbon! Those 2 things (O ring/carbon seal)that are vital for the turbo to seal up on the compressor side are greatly affected by sythetic oils. Hope that helps explain the situation.
The best way to introduce a change in my opinion is by going to a synthetic blend which is an in between oil. Then go back to the dino oil. Then you just run for a tank or so then drain again. Make sure you change the oil filter every time you drain. Sythetics will even try and wash all the oil coolers clean. Then just change the oil every 1500 or so miles until the sythetic oil is dilluted from the system. When you drain the pan, there is still synthetic in your coolers and cooler lines.
Bryan@BNR
Last edited by Bryan@BNR; 12-21-07 at 01:05 AM.
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