Switched to Mobil 1 yesterday...
#127
2 babies - no back seats
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: N. Wilm., Delaware?
Posts: 981
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by DamonB
I posted some great info I came across here.
I posted some great info I came across here.
I stick to the recommended 10w-30 in the warmer months and use 5w-30 in the winter. Either Mobil1 or Royal Purple
#128
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Niagara Falls ON.
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I switched to mobil one synthetic about 2 weeks ago. 15w 50
Now I have small puddles on the ground. First I thought it was the oil pan. I had to tighten whatever I could get at. Took it to work and back and still had a leak. It looks like it is coming from the front of the engine. around the metering oil pump (passenger side). any ideas??????
mileage on the reman motor is 19k
Now I have small puddles on the ground. First I thought it was the oil pan. I had to tighten whatever I could get at. Took it to work and back and still had a leak. It looks like it is coming from the front of the engine. around the metering oil pump (passenger side). any ideas??????
mileage on the reman motor is 19k
#130
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Bimingham, AL
Posts: 4,413
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its cause syn is very slipery and designed to get into cracks where regular oil cant get. This is how is slips thru the engine and ends up on your garage floor.
If your going to run syn you need a very tightly sealed engine or you'll spring leaks everywhere.
STEPHEN
If your going to run syn you need a very tightly sealed engine or you'll spring leaks everywhere.
STEPHEN
#131
The syn oil cleans out any goop or grim out of cracks within the engine my mech. told me only to switch if the motor is under 20k or else it will clean out the grim a spring leaks but that was when i had a piston engine
#134
Waiting for the RX-9
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by nickpapagiorgio
This may be redundant, and correct me if I am wrong but if you use a conventional oil with a synthetic premix, wouldn't that be the best of both worlds??
This may be redundant, and correct me if I am wrong but if you use a conventional oil with a synthetic premix, wouldn't that be the best of both worlds??
Synthetic is best by far in the sump because it lubricates better, doesnt break down at high temperatures and stays on the parts requiring lubrication better when the engine is stopped. Remember the Ad. "90% of engine wear occurs at startup" This is the big advantage of syn oil in any engine. A pre-mix of synthetic two-stroke is proabably slightly better tha conventional oil.
Synthetic oil doesnt thicken as much at low temperature just as it doesnt thin out as much at high temps. Hence, the 'leakage increases' while the engine is sitting from using syn oil. The cleaning effect may be a factor also.
#135
Pineapple Racing has always recommended the use of synthetics, particularly Mobil 1. As most of you know, Rob stands behind his work to the tune of 5 years, which says something for his conviction. The fact that he is still in business, having offered such a warrantee for so many years (over 20), says something about his knowledge and craftsmanship. He also runs Mobil 1 in his own vehicles. In fact, he only changes the filter every 3,000 miles; the oil gets changed once or twice a year. Perhaps he's brave. Or perhaps he knows someone that can rebuild his engine cheap. I dunno, but it works for him -- and has for MANY years. He has seen no correlation between using any quality synthetic, in a motor that retains the stock OPM, and the feared excessive carbon buildup rumored to happen ostensibly "because synthetic oil doesn't burn". In fact it's less. Whatever theories people have about how synthetic oil does or does not burn can be discounted out of hand because there is -- and has been for a very long time -- a great deal of actual evidence to prove it one way or another. In other words, when theory and experience do not agree, you discard the theory.
I, personally, use Royal Purple. It helps that I have a sponsorship, so they just ship me 5 gallon containers of Racing 21 and cases of gear lube, premix, and bearing grease. Obviously, I'm a bit biased toward their products. On the other hand, I bought their products retail before the sponsorship deal and that is what sold me on them -- that, plus the fact that one of their main engineers (David Canitz) is an RX-7 owner! Great guy, too.
So, should you switch to synthetics? Not necessarily. Older engines don't get all the benefits (already worn) and synthetic oil tends to leak around the oil control seals in older cars. There is nothing really wrong with mineral oil, so s]don't despair. But, fresher engines shortly after break-in are prime candidates for the upgrade. Should you do what Rob does and only change the filter every three months between 1 year oil changes? On NAs, yes, he says that is acceptable. On turbo engines, however, due to fuel blow-by under boost, he recommends 6K changes with a new filter half way though. I personally have 8K on my peripheral port 13B GRM Challenge car, but that was just one trip over 2 weeks.
Short answer is, do what you're comfortable with, but you can rest easier knowing that synthetics do indeed last longer and perform better with no excessive carbon build-up.
BTW, Rob wanted me to warn you about mineral motor oils marketed for so-called higher mileage cars -- these contain petroleum solvents that swell seals. Two things can happen in a rotary: either the oil control seals swell up, bind and break (rebuild time!) or they don't, but then you are stuck using the product indefinitely as switching back is likely to cause excessive oil leakage.
I, personally, use Royal Purple. It helps that I have a sponsorship, so they just ship me 5 gallon containers of Racing 21 and cases of gear lube, premix, and bearing grease. Obviously, I'm a bit biased toward their products. On the other hand, I bought their products retail before the sponsorship deal and that is what sold me on them -- that, plus the fact that one of their main engineers (David Canitz) is an RX-7 owner! Great guy, too.
So, should you switch to synthetics? Not necessarily. Older engines don't get all the benefits (already worn) and synthetic oil tends to leak around the oil control seals in older cars. There is nothing really wrong with mineral oil, so s]don't despair. But, fresher engines shortly after break-in are prime candidates for the upgrade. Should you do what Rob does and only change the filter every three months between 1 year oil changes? On NAs, yes, he says that is acceptable. On turbo engines, however, due to fuel blow-by under boost, he recommends 6K changes with a new filter half way though. I personally have 8K on my peripheral port 13B GRM Challenge car, but that was just one trip over 2 weeks.
Short answer is, do what you're comfortable with, but you can rest easier knowing that synthetics do indeed last longer and perform better with no excessive carbon build-up.
BTW, Rob wanted me to warn you about mineral motor oils marketed for so-called higher mileage cars -- these contain petroleum solvents that swell seals. Two things can happen in a rotary: either the oil control seals swell up, bind and break (rebuild time!) or they don't, but then you are stuck using the product indefinitely as switching back is likely to cause excessive oil leakage.
#136
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Niagara Falls ON.
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have'nt switch back to dino yet..
took it for a drive and I notice my oil pressure is a lot higher (around 8) @ 4-5k rpm
It seems like the leak comes just underneath the water pump area and not the OMP...any thoughts?
Is there a "stop leak"I could pour in?
Also I notice that my main cat has oil driplets. It would explain why the car was smoking..
err....
took it for a drive and I notice my oil pressure is a lot higher (around 8) @ 4-5k rpm
It seems like the leak comes just underneath the water pump area and not the OMP...any thoughts?
Is there a "stop leak"I could pour in?
Also I notice that my main cat has oil driplets. It would explain why the car was smoking..
err....
#139
2 babies - no back seats
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: N. Wilm., Delaware?
Posts: 981
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by gago
I have'nt switch back to dino yet..
took it for a drive and I notice my oil pressure is a lot higher (around 8) @ 4-5k rpm
It seems like the leak comes just underneath the water pump area and not the OMP...any thoughts?
Is there a "stop leak"I could pour in?
Also I notice that my main cat has oil driplets. It would explain why the car was smoking..
err....
I have'nt switch back to dino yet..
took it for a drive and I notice my oil pressure is a lot higher (around 8) @ 4-5k rpm
It seems like the leak comes just underneath the water pump area and not the OMP...any thoughts?
Is there a "stop leak"I could pour in?
Also I notice that my main cat has oil driplets. It would explain why the car was smoking..
err....
#140
Myth or Fact...
I had heard that Mobil 1 was no longer a fully syn. oil but a blend. The reason I had heard for the switch was that there competitors were advertising as a syn. oil but was only partially syn. This allowed there competitors to have a lower market price on oils. So in order to compete they switched over as well.
I haven't been able to verify any of this though but thought it was interesting. To put my own mind at ease I started using NEO which I know is a fully syn. oil
I haven't been able to verify any of this though but thought it was interesting. To put my own mind at ease I started using NEO which I know is a fully syn. oil
#141
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Niagara Falls ON.
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will look for something I could pour in to stop the leak and then run the car for a while then switch back to dino...
any suggestions on what kind of additive??
any suggestions on what kind of additive??
#142
Lives on the Forum
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Re: Myth or Fact...
Originally posted by rick@ap
I had heard that Mobil 1 was no longer a fully syn. oil but a blend. The reason I had heard for the switch was that there competitors were advertising as a syn. oil but was only partially syn. This allowed there competitors to have a lower market price on oils. So in order to compete they switched over as well.
I haven't been able to verify any of this though but thought it was interesting. To put my own mind at ease I started using NEO which I know is a fully syn. oil
I had heard that Mobil 1 was no longer a fully syn. oil but a blend. The reason I had heard for the switch was that there competitors were advertising as a syn. oil but was only partially syn. This allowed there competitors to have a lower market price on oils. So in order to compete they switched over as well.
I haven't been able to verify any of this though but thought it was interesting. To put my own mind at ease I started using NEO which I know is a fully syn. oil
#143
Yes it is for sale.
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: The Houston Club's Resident Lush.
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: Myth or Fact...
Originally posted by rick@ap
I had heard that Mobil 1 was no longer a fully syn. oil but a blend. The reason I had heard for the switch was that there competitors were advertising as a syn. oil but was only partially syn. This allowed there competitors to have a lower market price on oils. So in order to compete they switched over as well.
I haven't been able to verify any of this though but thought it was interesting. To put my own mind at ease I started using NEO which I know is a fully syn. oil
I had heard that Mobil 1 was no longer a fully syn. oil but a blend. The reason I had heard for the switch was that there competitors were advertising as a syn. oil but was only partially syn. This allowed there competitors to have a lower market price on oils. So in order to compete they switched over as well.
I haven't been able to verify any of this though but thought it was interesting. To put my own mind at ease I started using NEO which I know is a fully syn. oil