dubulup

I'm sold

apneablue

ME 2...changing next oil change...actually going from AMS Oil to Mobil 1....My daily driver is a 94 Mazda MX-3 and I used to run Castrol Syntec in it...had to change it every 3500 miles because it would break down and performance lagged...I have had Mobil1 in my MX-3 now for 6500 Miles and it still feels like when it just went it...chances are it's gonna make the 7 feel just as good

Street King

That helped me also change my mind. My oil would poop on me too soon. Been running M1 and no problems, so far......

fdracer

rotor,
it won't really be too expensive since you only have to change your oil half as much.

DarkKnight

I am almost due for the next oil change, and i am going Mobil 1 too. No one seems to have blown anything up yet, so why not!

jpandes

Wow, you can FEEL the difference of synth. vs. dino oil!@?@

So how many miles in between oil changes w/ synthetic oil???

Import Convert

Not true. You should never go more than 3K miles on any oil.

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

I've been running two stroke injector oil in my engine for about two to three years now, I think it helps lubrication in general....about the same consistency as the Pettit Protek-R stuff....not sure how it compares ot MMO, but it's likely alot cheaper.....how much is a gallon of MMO?

fdracer

but he changes his oil every 1500 mi

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

Not true. You should never go more than 3K miles on any oil.

what he said

a syntheitc oil still accumulates dirt, metal particulate, gasoline contamination, etc, etc at the same rate as any other oil.....I use the high efficiency, oversized Fram X2 or Mobil 1 oil filters, which seem to work well, but I still change at 3k (I used to change at 1.5k with dino)

JONSKI

A quart of MMO is $3.50. It's practically free.

dubulup

is Mobil 1 good for engines with low miles???

on the bottle it says "higher mileage engines"

jmseven

You can use mobile 1 from the start.....Porsche does...

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

they have 5w-30 for "new engines", 10w-30 for "high mileage engines", and "15w-50" for "performance engines"....I think it's more or less a marketing gimmick....it's fine to use in any engine after break in, but I run 15w-50 to withstand the severe beating turbos spinning at 100,000 rpm can dish out....Mobil also recommends the 15w-50 for turbo cars

13brv3

I just bought my R1, and need to go ahead and get the oil changed for a fresh start. The Mobile-1 thread has been interesting, as well as the talk of MMO. I know a few airplane guys that run both, and I plan to do the same in the airplane engine (turbo 13B).

My car is a pure toy, and probably won't be driven 1000 miles in a year, so I don't expect mileage to be the limiting factor or me. How long (months, not miles) would you go between oil changes with dino or Mobile-1?

Thanks,
Rusty

sszablya

what about Royal Purple. I used that in my 240SX with excellent results. It comes in at $8.99 a quart, anybody use this in their rotary?

94 SUPER 7

have you guys tried NEO SYNTHETIC or REDLINE OILS ? NEO is very good!

Swamp RX-7

For me I chose Mobil 1 because of availibility(sp), I don't want to have to mail-order my oil, or drive all over town to find it. Mobil 1 comes STOCK right off the factory floor in many high performance cars... Porsche, Viper, Corvette, just to name a few. I'm sold on this stuff, and I'll use it for every oil change.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I've tried Neo and liked it but I don't know much about it, so untill I can get proof that that brand is ok I will rarely use it in the RX-7.

Red Line is great also but harder for me to get. I can pick up RP localy.

I've seen MM oil in Pep Boys but have not used it. Again, I don't know much about it. I should really say that I haven't researched it.

I do use Royal purple. The race 21 & race 50 are $8/qt. Sometimes I get Mobil 1 from Costco @ $4.50/qt.

I started out changing my oil every 1500k mi, then switched to every 2k. It was more conveniant (easier to track how much oil I needed to add), one qt in between changes. I still mixed the one quart of RP Race 50 and in between just because I was paranoid of the turbos boiling the oil.

I know change every 4k using RP race 21 + RP race 50 and sometimes mix Mobil 1. Yes it can get dirty just as dyno can but it won't break down and be useless which was the purpose of me changing twice as often. Since synthetic can last wice as long or 6k mi, then changing every 4k is still changing alot more often. I don't see any problems with this but if you guys are paranoid then change it every 3k. I like to use Mobil 1 filters though.

Yes there are vehicles which the manual recomends Mobil 1 exclusivley which are the Corvette and Porsche.

I did notice a smoother idle and lower temps. Even though I can't confirm this without gauges to prove it. Maybe it's psycological but i'm sure the guys with the gauges can back that up.

Oh and I agree with YZF-R1's last post. WHAT??? ...I can't beleive I just said that!

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Correct me if i'm wrong but I beleive the dirty look of the oil is "mostly" from breakdown and not dirt. So therefore if Synthetic takes twice as long to break down then you can use it twice as long.

Ovcourse there are exceptions, like the acidity thing if you car sits all the time and gets little miles.

Street King

My friend uses it in his N/A S5 rx7. He said he could tell a difference in power and smoothness. **** 9 BUX A QUART. HOLY SHNAP!

fdracer

anything that sees the street will not need royal purple.

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

Correct me if i'm wrong but I beleive the dirty look of the oil is "mostly" from breakdown and not dirt. So therefore if Synthetic takes twice as long to break down then you can use it twice as long.

synthetics are supposedly more resistant to viscosity breakdown because of the way the hydrocarbon molecule is engineered, but they still accumulate contaminants at the same rate and they have basically the same solubility limit as a regular oil (unless someone has more info on this)....barring use of a high efficiency filter or filtration system, saturation conditions occur, resulting in excessive wear beyond about 3k (read a great article on this issue in Roadracing World awhile back)......furthermore, the rotary engine suffers from turbo blow-by and extensive fuel leakage into the oil, which accelerates the contamination process

if you are really curious, try getting an oil analysis at 3k....I have thought about doing this myself....would be very interesting

for a typical non turbo, low revving engine using a high effeciency oil filter, 5-7k is probably fine.....but turbocharged rotary engines are the ultimate stress/ contamination test for any oil.....3k tops in my book

mazda/feed

well i just hit 98,000 miles would synth be good for me and i have heard that if you go synth you can not go back to reg oil, i was ussing castrol high mile.

airborne

i just did the switch yesterday (from castrol gtx 20w50 to mobil 1 15w50) and the only major difference was in water temp.

usually got up to 89C (192F) under normal cond, took the car out last nite, and to work this morning and it maxed out at 85 (185F).

one other small thing i noticed, usually right after shutoff the car would immediately begin to heatsoak and the water-t would slowly go up. now it drops to 83 first, then rises. funky.

but if it i continue to see that 85 i'll be a believer and continue paying $5 a qt!