Stored car for 6mnths wont start/ dead fuel pump?
06-16-10 | 07:46 PM
#27
Is the fuel pump straight wired now off the battery now and that is how you are getting fuel pressure? Or is it set up normally? Is the tachometer bouncing very slightly when cranking or is there no movement? If no movement is sounds like a CAS(Crank Angle Sensor) problem.
06-16-10 | 10:55 PM
#29
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The FSM doesn't show a way to test the ignitor without having a special tool...
Anyone know of any other way to test the ignitor with a DMM?
Tomorrow I will be testing the resistance of each plug wire and coils. I will post my results.
Anyone know of any other way to test the ignitor with a DMM?
Tomorrow I will be testing the resistance of each plug wire and coils. I will post my results.
06-17-10 | 05:47 PM
#31
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From: NJ
All plugs wires are within spec.
A-B on all coils resistance is 141 or below which is within spec by far...
A-T(Trailing plug wire connection on coil) No reading on both trailing coils
L1-L2 14.6k ohms which is almost out of spec.
I also unplugged the ignitor with the key to on, 1 wire showed just about 12V so the ignitor is getting power...
A-B on all coils resistance is 141 or below which is within spec by far...
A-T(Trailing plug wire connection on coil) No reading on both trailing coils
L1-L2 14.6k ohms which is almost out of spec.
I also unplugged the ignitor with the key to on, 1 wire showed just about 12V so the ignitor is getting power...
06-17-10 | 06:35 PM
#32
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From: NJ
No spark...
93' FD, PFC, single turbo, and 550/1680 with fpr+walbro.
Ran perfect before I stopped driving it and took out the center section of the turbo so I could get it rebuilt. Haven't started it in about 6 months, couldnt get the turbo rebuilt locally so I decided to put it back together and just drive it.
Didnt hear the fuel pump running so I directly wired that so now it works, I have fuel pressure and fuel is getting into the motor.
Got a old plug hooked it up to one of my sparkplug wires and didn't see any spark so I looked into it further... found the main electric ground came off the a/c stud on the motor so I reattached that.
Also got out my DMM and did some readings of the coils, wires, and tested the voltage of the plug that goes into the ignitor.
All plugs wires are within spec.
A-B on all coils resistance is 141 or below which is within spec by far...
A-T(Trailing plug wire connection on coil) No reading on both trailing coils
L1-L2 14.6k ohms which is almost out of spec.
I also unplugged the ignitor with the key to on, 1 wire showed just about 12V so the ignitor is getting power...
I am not understanding this, I also tested the coil harness connection at the elec harness, showed 12V, so I then tested each plug that goes into the 3 coils, and each of the 3 plugs showed over 12V.
But I am not getting any kind of spark...
Ran perfect before I stopped driving it and took out the center section of the turbo so I could get it rebuilt. Haven't started it in about 6 months, couldnt get the turbo rebuilt locally so I decided to put it back together and just drive it.
Didnt hear the fuel pump running so I directly wired that so now it works, I have fuel pressure and fuel is getting into the motor.
Got a old plug hooked it up to one of my sparkplug wires and didn't see any spark so I looked into it further... found the main electric ground came off the a/c stud on the motor so I reattached that.
Also got out my DMM and did some readings of the coils, wires, and tested the voltage of the plug that goes into the ignitor.
All plugs wires are within spec.
A-B on all coils resistance is 141 or below which is within spec by far...
A-T(Trailing plug wire connection on coil) No reading on both trailing coils
L1-L2 14.6k ohms which is almost out of spec.
I also unplugged the ignitor with the key to on, 1 wire showed just about 12V so the ignitor is getting power...
I am not understanding this, I also tested the coil harness connection at the elec harness, showed 12V, so I then tested each plug that goes into the 3 coils, and each of the 3 plugs showed over 12V.
But I am not getting any kind of spark...
06-17-10 | 08:59 PM
#35
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From: NJ
I will take out the bolts and clean up where it mounts...
If anyone has any ideas that would be great cause I don't know what else I can look at, and can't test the ignitor cause in the FSM it states I need a special gadget to test if the ignitor is good or not.
06-17-10 | 10:00 PM
#36
Hope this helps.
-AzEKnightz
06-18-10 | 09:07 AM
#37
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From: NJ
how about old way of simply disconnect the spark plug and put a screw driver inside the wire and place it near a ground and have someone crank the car (make sure the EGI fuse is pulled so no gas is being dumped into the engine) to see if you are getting any spark from the ignitor? If you are, then your ignitor is good. Also when you jump the sparks, try to put the screw driver about an inch away to test for good strong sparks.
Hope this helps.
-AzEKnightz
Hope this helps.
-AzEKnightz
06-18-10 | 10:38 AM
#38
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From: NJ
I also ohmed both cas sensors... 1107 and 1114 so they are both good.
I also tested the plug to see if any voltage was flowing to the plugs with the key in the on position, neither of the 2 plugs showed any voltage.
I also tested the plug to see if any voltage was flowing to the plugs with the key in the on position, neither of the 2 plugs showed any voltage.
06-18-10 | 12:19 PM
#39
so you are getting voltage to the coils, and no sparks coming out of the coil. Are all of your coils not creating spark? Hmmm... I would definitely check the ground on those coils if ALL coils are not creating spark. But if only 1 or 2 of the coils aren't creating spark, I would say the culprit is the coil.
-AzeKnightz
-AzeKnightz
06-18-10 | 04:41 PM
#41
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No one knows if the wiring to the cas has any voltage flowing through it with the key on?
FSM states that the correct voltage should be below 1.0V...
I tested the plug/wiring and my dmm showed 0V, if the fsm is correct and its suppose to show some kind of voltage then I apparently have a break in the wiring going to both of my cas sensors.
Also again with the ignition, 1 wire on the ignitors plug showed 12V, electrical harness connector attaching to coils harness showed 12V, coil harness's 3 plug all showed 12V, A-B resistance on all 3 coils is within spec, A-T resistance in the FSM states infinity... on my DMM I got a reading of 0 on both coils, but on the leading coil... L1-L2 resistance was about 14k OHMS which was within spec, also tested the resistance on all of my plug wires... 120-144ohms on all wires so they are all good as well.
I did not check each coil for spark, but I will shortly. I think my problem is elsewhere since everything is within spec but I could be wrong if the other coils show spark.
I really think its the wiring going to the cas since I received 0 volts at the plug/wiring and the fsm states below 1.0V
FSM states that the correct voltage should be below 1.0V...
I tested the plug/wiring and my dmm showed 0V, if the fsm is correct and its suppose to show some kind of voltage then I apparently have a break in the wiring going to both of my cas sensors.
Also again with the ignition, 1 wire on the ignitors plug showed 12V, electrical harness connector attaching to coils harness showed 12V, coil harness's 3 plug all showed 12V, A-B resistance on all 3 coils is within spec, A-T resistance in the FSM states infinity... on my DMM I got a reading of 0 on both coils, but on the leading coil... L1-L2 resistance was about 14k OHMS which was within spec, also tested the resistance on all of my plug wires... 120-144ohms on all wires so they are all good as well.
I did not check each coil for spark, but I will shortly. I think my problem is elsewhere since everything is within spec but I could be wrong if the other coils show spark.
I really think its the wiring going to the cas since I received 0 volts at the plug/wiring and the fsm states below 1.0V
06-18-10 | 09:19 PM
#42
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From: NJ
Ok voltage and resistance on both of the cas plugs/wiring showed 0 on the dmm, tested on the ecu's side and it was good so I guess I have a break in the wiring so tomorrow I will dissect the wiring harness and hopefully fix it and have this thing running...
06-19-10 | 08:53 PM
#43
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From: NJ
started stripping the wiring for the cas plugs and testing it further and further upstream till i get some resistance on the dmm...
shielded wire isnt fun to cut
also my buddy thats a bmw tech tested it with his fancy dmm he had with the pinouts on the ecu and said it was showing 2 grounds, so I guess theres a break where its shielded and causing it to ground out?
shielded wire isnt fun to cut
also my buddy thats a bmw tech tested it with his fancy dmm he had with the pinouts on the ecu and said it was showing 2 grounds, so I guess theres a break where its shielded and causing it to ground out?
06-28-10 | 09:34 PM
#45
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Ran new wires to the ecu today, now my connectors are all showing resistance 
I hooked it up how the fsm stated white red green black
Talked to rich he looked at his and his is orange, yellow, red, white
So mine should be black, green, red, white. So I will go switch it up and hopefully hear this thing run.
I hooked it up how the fsm stated white red green black
Talked to rich he looked at his and his is orange, yellow, red, white
So mine should be black, green, red, white. So I will go switch it up and hopefully hear this thing run.
12-12-10 | 05:28 PM
#47
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From: NJ
May have found out why my 93' RX7 isn't running
Ok I made a post maybe 6 months ago, I decided to put my turbo back on the FD and run it till I can get a new turbo since I believe the oil seals in my S366 are gone.
I would turn the key to the on position and didn't hear the fuel pump running, I checked everything I could but couldnt find anything bad, so I cut the power wire and ran it directly to the battery so the fuel pump would now run and make sure it wasnt a dead pump.
I ran new wires to the cas sensors from the ecu since my stock wiring harness isnt in good shape where the cas sensor plugs were, I tested the new wires and they had resistance and so did the sensors so I know that was good.
It still would not start, checked the plugs and it was getting fuel.
I decided to pull one of the plugs leave it connected to the wire and see if I had spark.... NO SPARK
I thought it was something in my wiring harness and decided to put off fixing it till it warms up here in NJ again.
Today I decided to look at the wiring diagram, I knew whatever it was it was connected with the ignition and fuel pump.
Narrowed it down to the relays... the fuel pump relay and the egi main relay, also took out the fuel pump speed relay
I then tested for resistance on each of the 3 relays... I got resistance from both of the fuel pump relays but not the egi main relay.
What do you guys think? The egi main relay connects with the ignition and the fuel pump and its not showing resistance off of any combination of prongs with my ohm meter but the others do.
I would turn the key to the on position and didn't hear the fuel pump running, I checked everything I could but couldnt find anything bad, so I cut the power wire and ran it directly to the battery so the fuel pump would now run and make sure it wasnt a dead pump.
I ran new wires to the cas sensors from the ecu since my stock wiring harness isnt in good shape where the cas sensor plugs were, I tested the new wires and they had resistance and so did the sensors so I know that was good.
It still would not start, checked the plugs and it was getting fuel.
I decided to pull one of the plugs leave it connected to the wire and see if I had spark.... NO SPARK
I thought it was something in my wiring harness and decided to put off fixing it till it warms up here in NJ again.
Today I decided to look at the wiring diagram, I knew whatever it was it was connected with the ignition and fuel pump.
Narrowed it down to the relays... the fuel pump relay and the egi main relay, also took out the fuel pump speed relay
I then tested for resistance on each of the 3 relays... I got resistance from both of the fuel pump relays but not the egi main relay.
What do you guys think? The egi main relay connects with the ignition and the fuel pump and its not showing resistance off of any combination of prongs with my ohm meter but the others do.
12-12-10 | 06:30 PM
#48
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From: NJ
Ok I made a post maybe 6 months ago, I decided to put my turbo back on the FD and run it till I can get a new turbo since I believe the oil seals in my S366 are gone.
I would turn the key to the on position and didn't hear the fuel pump running, I checked everything I could but couldnt find anything bad, so I cut the power wire and ran it directly to the battery so the fuel pump would now run and make sure it wasnt a dead pump.
I ran new wires to the cas sensors from the ecu since my stock wiring harness isnt in good shape where the cas sensor plugs were, I tested the new wires and they had resistance and so did the sensors so I know that was good.
It still would not start, checked the plugs and it was getting fuel.
I decided to pull one of the plugs leave it connected to the wire and see if I had spark.... NO SPARK
I thought it was something in my wiring harness and decided to put off fixing it till it warms up here in NJ again.
Today I decided to look at the wiring diagram, I knew whatever it was it was connected with the ignition and fuel pump.
Narrowed it down to the relays... the fuel pump relay and the egi main relay, also took out the fuel pump speed relay
I then tested for resistance on each of the 3 relays... I got resistance from both of the fuel pump relays but not the egi main relay.
What do you guys think? The egi main relay connects with the ignition and the fuel pump and its not showing resistance off of any combination of prongs with my ohm meter but the others do.
I pulled the cover off the egi main relay to take a closer look at it, I put the prongs on my ohm meter to the 2 prongs that have the copper wire wrapped and I got resistance, but if I place the probes on the prongs that go into the fuse box I get no resistance.
I would turn the key to the on position and didn't hear the fuel pump running, I checked everything I could but couldnt find anything bad, so I cut the power wire and ran it directly to the battery so the fuel pump would now run and make sure it wasnt a dead pump.
I ran new wires to the cas sensors from the ecu since my stock wiring harness isnt in good shape where the cas sensor plugs were, I tested the new wires and they had resistance and so did the sensors so I know that was good.
It still would not start, checked the plugs and it was getting fuel.
I decided to pull one of the plugs leave it connected to the wire and see if I had spark.... NO SPARK
I thought it was something in my wiring harness and decided to put off fixing it till it warms up here in NJ again.
Today I decided to look at the wiring diagram, I knew whatever it was it was connected with the ignition and fuel pump.
Narrowed it down to the relays... the fuel pump relay and the egi main relay, also took out the fuel pump speed relay
I then tested for resistance on each of the 3 relays... I got resistance from both of the fuel pump relays but not the egi main relay.
What do you guys think? The egi main relay connects with the ignition and the fuel pump and its not showing resistance off of any combination of prongs with my ohm meter but the others do.
I pulled the cover off the egi main relay to take a closer look at it, I put the prongs on my ohm meter to the 2 prongs that have the copper wire wrapped and I got resistance, but if I place the probes on the prongs that go into the fuse box I get no resistance.
12-13-10 | 05:45 PM
#49
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From: NJ
Ok today I charged the battery tested the female spade receivers for the fuse to make sure power was being sent to the fuse and it was good receiving over 12V then I plugged the relay back into the fuse box with the cover off turned the key to the on position didn't hear a click and checked the relay to see if it was connecting and it wasn't.
I then unplugged the plugs on the ecu found 1A which is the power wire and 1B which also connects to the main relay and received 0 volts on both with the key on and off.
This all seems to confirm its the egi main relay.
I then unplugged the plugs on the ecu found 1A which is the power wire and 1B which also connects to the main relay and received 0 volts on both with the key on and off.
This all seems to confirm its the egi main relay.
