With Non-seq, you don't have to deal with the rats nest, and all the solenoids and BS that fails and causes you to have no boost from the secondary.

Yeah, it lags a little more, but I still love it. From a stop, all you gotta do is slip the clutch just a hair, and give it a little RPM and you'll spool instantly and there wouldn't be any lag.

 

it is actually. Runing right a sequential setup is awsome.

+1

Matty YOU ARE right on the money with that. I converted to non-sequential after I kept getting repeated boost issues. Basically in the last couple of years I would either get a boost leak, bad solenoid, hose poping off, always something. THe real solution was to just go in there and bite the bullet and completely over haul my sequential set up (silicon hoses, new solenoids, solder a small hump at the connections to keep the hoses from poping off) Plus I hated that transition spike.

So I went non sequential to see what the hype is all about. From what I read my set up was perfect for it since it would yield a quicker spool time (Mild Streetport, CAI, PFS SMIC, straight through exhaust. Many claim 10 psi @ 3000 RPMs I thought "great! Win win situation". The reality is that I don't get full boost till 3800 RPMs (like many others). Yes I did increase my powerband by 700 RPMs but there is lag. Oh the damn lag... Even at 4200 RPMs the boost is not anywhere instant like the stock system.

Forget all that though. Here are some real world results:

My best friend has an 05 porsche boxter S, not a bad little car actually. I think stock for stock the performance factor goes to the ****** porsche. 280 HP NA, mid engine car (which is great for handling, and launching. For those of you that don't know) and weighs about the same as an FD. My buddy and I have been racing each other since we were 16 (in our parent's car). Now that we are in our 30's **** still the same lol just the cars got faster and nicer. Ok now I'm rambling...

When he first got his porsche. My mods were: sequential turbos, Mild Streetport, CAI, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, Stock catback, Stock ECU Boost held @ 10psi. We went from a first gear roll. I pulled on him instantly and just left him behind. It was like that with any gear any speed, except during a dig where he would jump ahead by 1/2 a car but by the end of first I was already next to him.

Now: on top of those mods I have non-sequential turbos, RB duals, TUNED power FC, and I'm running 2 psi more (12 psi). The outcome is that he always jumps at least 1 - 1/2 cars ahead and I always have to play catch up. From a 1st gear roll he leaves me behind (by quite a bit actually), on the middle of second I catch up to him and leave him about a car behind on the top of second, on third he is way back. Even on +80 MPH rolls he gets the jump but I catch up rather quickly and yeah I could brake boost but that's not the point. BTW he is 100% stock.

The truth of the matter is that going non-sequential does simplify your setup thus making it easeir to trouble shoot, adds lag, and increases your powerband by 700 RPM's. But that 700 RPM increase is actually nothing to be proud of since it has two things working against it: One is the lag (of course) the other is that when you shift at redline your revs drop to what? 4600 RPM's. But that's exactly where the sequential turbo system is runing the turbos in parallel. So you aren't really utilizing those extra 700 RPMs anyway . So what are you left with then? lag and simplicity. That's all.

For those that are thinking of going non-sequential: I recommend you try the simplified sequential instead. I believe it's only 20 hoses + solenoids so the simplicity is still there. I would go to simplified seq setup myself but my turbos are old and smoke quite bit so I just may go single instead.

 

So how hard is it 2 reliably have seq. twins @ 350-360 hp...RELIABLY? i want people who have done this to chime in.

Like I said..the only reason for my indecisiveness on stayin seq. or goin non seq. is the reliability factor. Im already having boost issues now..I couldn't imagine that much more hp running through the system and not having trouble.

 

Damn, I guess I'm not alone with the lag. I have a greddy FMIC, and I get 14psi at around 3800-4000.

 

its very reliable! in fact thats the best reliability/reward/ cost effective level in the Fd in my opinion. Can u make more reliable rwhp? i think u can but at that point u are spending some serious dough, opening cans of worms, and really making your car into a very seriously modded machine.

This isnt directed at you juts general statements: I have been reading **** on the forum for so many yrs thats simply not true. i am getting pretty aggeravated about certain subjects and tired of posting the TRUTH. People read hersay posts then later post the hersay themselves and boy do they beleive it. Meanwhile there are guys like mrrx7tt, yellowr1, G's 3rg gen, boostn7 and many others who have very very fast and reliable cars running more than 15psi on the stock twins and smoking z06s both c5 and c6 z06s that is. Another one off thing is that guys post some nice dyno results with zero real world time slips. thats bs, dynos lie and peak numbers are worthless. I respect trap speeds.

If u get a good smic, fuel and spend the money on a great tune u can push these cars and make alot of power running 11s all day and beating z06s on the stock twins. These cars arent as tempermental as most guys say. Any car that has 120k miles on it and u increase the rwhp by 150 is gonna have some issues. If your car is well taken care of and low miles u can push them. if u dont beleive me well thats your loss.

 

Ok, see everyone makes it seem impossible to have the seq. realibly with those power lvls. I dunno what Im gonna do though still. I got a FULL NS system waitin for me, and I gotta take off my system 2 get the wastegate ported..sooo..hmm.

Gotta firgure out why Im at a 7-10-12 boost reading. I understand about the 10-12 due 2 the mods I have..just not 7 on tha primary.

This is completely off topic but..
Has anyone here heard about Petit Upgraded Twins? I just seen a 3rd gen in a canadian magazine and it said he had upgraded petit twins. Any info on them?

 

Not very difficult. You just have to start with a fresh control system. Of course you are going to have problems with a 10-year old system with a lot of miles on it.

I have been running 13+ psi sequentially for over 3 years....I've had three problems, all related to age of parts -- 1) check valve failed, 2) line blew off solenoid, 3) BOV hose would not stay on until replaced with new hose and clamp. In the last year since my rebuild, I have been running 15 psi with zero issues.

 

thats the thing that everyone seems to overlook and the most valid of any point brought up in this thread!

if u have a good example with low miles then u are so much better off. i was gonna sell my car for a quick second and i was getting guys low balling me. these jokers have no idea on how to buy a 3rdgen...or any usued performance car. they buy the cheapest thing they can find and then wonder why there car is a nightmare and costing them tons of $$. jeeze i am all worked up now and tired of reading the posts.

how about u people buy a nice ******* car to start with...dont bitch when u buy a 9k 3rdgen and become unhappy when its not reliable and cant make good power.

 

You've really been running 15 psi? How often do you drive the car, and which twins are you running? I am scared to run that much boost on my twins for various reasons. One of them is increased wear on the turbos...especially the primary.
and Matty, if I do go non-sequencial, it would toally be a blast to meet up and do some testing. I'm totally down.

 

15 psi on BNR Stage 3s....I have never turned down the boost controller since Kan tuned it back in December 05.....I hit extended WOT every time I drive it. When it's cooler out, my 265 Toyo T1-S don't get full traction until about 75 mph. Heh.

 

^^ Rynberg has BNR's stage 3.

 

WTF. You even get on it when it's cool out? I seriously don't mess around with that. 3 of the motors i've popped have been when it was cold out. I admit it, i'm gun shy.
I wonder if the 99 twins could handle that boost? I"m thinking not.
What are you at for power? Like 340rwhp?

 

This is gonna sound harsh but the problem is you not the car:
Seriously man u need to open your eyes alittle. You are one of "those" guys huh? sorry to be a dick but you popped three motors cause you either have a **** mechanic, a **** car, a shitty tuner, or maybe just dont get how these cars work concerning the modding rules. i suspect its a combination of all of them. Sorry to say it but its guys like u that give the FD a bad name. Sorry.....just being real. how else do u explain that my motor is the original and u are running thru them like nothing. Not to mention it appears i push my car alot harder than u do.

these cars arent as tempermental as u think. 15psi is fine....i been runnign it for 5 yrs. I posted that ealier....what since rynberg posts it means more then when i post it?

 

i been boosting 15psi on the stropckers in 30 degrees! my motor is tghe stock original...go figure.

 

Goddamn. What brought this on? When did I ever say anything that Rynberg's posts meant more than yours? Tough day or something?
I popped motors for varous reasons. The first one..... it was just time. It was high mileage. The second one, a wonderull mechanic blew up on a test drive. The third one blew under warranty, and I honestly have no idea of why it went. Yes it could have been tuning, and no I didn't tune it myself, nor will I saw who, as I don't want a flame fest.
I drove the car daily for years, and put rediculous miles on it.......to the tune of between 20,000 - 30,000 miles a year. I used to beat the snought out of it. I broke everything on it, some things twice.
When I first bought the car, I didn't really know what I was getting into. I had bad advice, and alot of bad luck. I also bought it when I shouldn't have. It was too expensive for me to propperly maintain. As a result, I had a very stressfull first 4 years of owning the car.
Now, I just enjoy the car. I'm not at a point where I where want to throw money at it. My priorities are a little changed right now. I've got a music studio to build, gear to buy, and a cd to make. I'm not getting any younger. Plus, I CAN'T get any more tickets. My insurance is through the roof.
So yes, i'm conservative right now with my tunings and my driving. I still hit it hard a couple of times a day when i'm in it. I believe the car needs it to run correctly. But, at this point, I am not going to run 15 psi. I just don't want the car to work that hard right now. But that's just me, and maybe 15 psi doesn't put that much more stress on your car than 13. But whatever.
I can't change my history. I had alot of **** go wrong. I am conservative right now with it. But nowhere have I said my car is a POS, and you really have no right to come out of the gates and judge me like that.
No hard feeling or anything, but goddamn man. Now, i'm late for work. Yay.

 

the nay sayers bother me is all. pretty mature post....now i feel like a real dick. My point really is that these cars get a bad name for the reasons i stated above not because the are that tempermental. And it seems atleast some of the reasons that i listed are true.

 

just to add to the data: i'm running a street ported motor, 99 twins and all supporting mods and have put down 350 rwhp on 3 different dynos. all new sequential control system working perfectly with no issues.

having a mid pipe in cold winter weather on the east coast makes it a bit harder to control boost - creeps pretty easily. wastegate not ported.

 

I've been running sequentially for years fairly reliably, and making great horsepower. I've had the odd issue or two, and they ARE irritating, but I'd hardly call it a mess or unrealiable. You get in there, replace the lines and keep the check valves/solonoids in working order, and it'll behave fine. I think, like the rest of the "unreliability" statements about this car, it's grossly overstated.

 

You shouldn't need to port the wastegate w/ '99's.

 

Boost controller owns you

 

Vader, there is no reason to be afraid of driving hard when it's cooler out....unless you have a poor tune job or don't have adequate boost control.

Steve Kan tuned my car on a cooler day and I have a ported wastegate. I have no problems other than poor traction.

 

No worries. Don't feel like a dick. I'l still race your *** if I ever go non sequencial.

Rynberg, your saying that the air fuel mixture is not affected by temperature? I was honestly under the impression that it was. I mean, some people's cars run(or barely run more appropriately) like total *** in the winter, and I thought that that was a result of the air being so diffirent in the colder weather.
My boost is rock steady, and not an issue at all.

 

The air/fuel mixture does vary by temperature, that's what temperature correction factors in the fuel map are for.

 

my car wasnt getting through the transition completely until 5300-5500 rpm....so i guess there may have been an issue there??.....and this was true on 6-7 others cars i did as well....these were all "working" sequential system cars.....but possibly all with issues??.........two of which were being used in auto-x.....

i dont personally auto-x so i am going on customer feedback......but then again i cant speak for their driving abilities either...so again...maybe you are right??...

but i will state the FACTS i produced from my own tests...and the consistancy between these cars all lead me to believe that my claims are not "bullshit".

either way....too many variables to negotiate with...so i wont argue anymore about it. I would love to ride in a "good" sequential car though to see just how different it really is from the ones ive driven......if its really that great i may buy the necessary parts to get mine there

 

geeze everyone owns/works a shop these days,