Spark plugs for the RX-7.
08-26-02, 02:24 AM
#1
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Spark plugs for the RX-7.
Hey all again, I'm in the market for the replacement of my spark plugs, but don't know the steps on what is involved. So far all I've gathered is that NGK 9s are the one to use and that there are different kinds of spark plugs to use as well. I've been told that there are 4 plugs to use, 2 main ones and 2 secondary ones.
Can somebody please explain to me more about this issue and what exactly is involved in changing the plugs myself, or maybe link me to a helpful source?
Thanks.
Dan.
Can somebody please explain to me more about this issue and what exactly is involved in changing the plugs myself, or maybe link me to a helpful source?
Thanks.
Dan.
08-26-02, 02:49 AM
#3
Each rotor housing has two plugs. The lower plug is the leading plug and the top plug is the Trailing plug (easy to remember because of the T -- Trailing is on Top). There are two rotor housings, so you have a total of four plugs -- two leading and two trailing.
The stock plugs are heat range 7 for leading and heat range 9 for trailing, but they are otherwise extremely similar. Higher numbers are "colder" plugs, which you use in a "hotter" environment. So, if you used a 7 plug and it deteriorated from heat too quickly, you would move to a colder plug like a 9. Colder plugs make cold starts harder and foul more easily, so you can't just throw in a set of 13s and be done with it -- you'd foul them too quickly (assuming you could even get the car started). You really want to get the "right" plugs -- not too hot or too cold.
The stock plugs are NGK surface gap plugs. They are weird and much more expensive than the plugs for other cars. Some people run some other plugs in the car (like NGK B10-EGV) that are more normal looking, but are still somewhat expensive motorcycle racing plugs. I recommend the stock style plugs unless you know what you are doing and have a special socket to install other plugs.
I suggest you stick with the 7L/9T combo unless you have done lots of mods to the car (full exhaust, IC, more boost, etc.). You will have a smoother idle and the car will start easier. Many people (including me) run 9s all around to prolong plug life and avoid too much heat in the leading plug. You can just ask the Mazda dealer for "four trailing plugs" to get all 9s. If you already have them, you should be fine with all 9s, but 7&9s might be better if you don't have lots of mods.
You can change the plugs from the top or bottom of the car, but I find it easier to do it from the bottom. You can use a regular spark plug socket and you might find it useful to have a 3" extension for some of the plugs. Do one plug at a time so you don't mix up the plug wire connections. Use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads so they will be easy to remove in the future without damaging the aluminum rotor housing. The torque spec is just 14 ft-lbs, so be careful not to over-tighten them.
-Max
The stock plugs are heat range 7 for leading and heat range 9 for trailing, but they are otherwise extremely similar. Higher numbers are "colder" plugs, which you use in a "hotter" environment. So, if you used a 7 plug and it deteriorated from heat too quickly, you would move to a colder plug like a 9. Colder plugs make cold starts harder and foul more easily, so you can't just throw in a set of 13s and be done with it -- you'd foul them too quickly (assuming you could even get the car started). You really want to get the "right" plugs -- not too hot or too cold.
The stock plugs are NGK surface gap plugs. They are weird and much more expensive than the plugs for other cars. Some people run some other plugs in the car (like NGK B10-EGV) that are more normal looking, but are still somewhat expensive motorcycle racing plugs. I recommend the stock style plugs unless you know what you are doing and have a special socket to install other plugs.
I suggest you stick with the 7L/9T combo unless you have done lots of mods to the car (full exhaust, IC, more boost, etc.). You will have a smoother idle and the car will start easier. Many people (including me) run 9s all around to prolong plug life and avoid too much heat in the leading plug. You can just ask the Mazda dealer for "four trailing plugs" to get all 9s. If you already have them, you should be fine with all 9s, but 7&9s might be better if you don't have lots of mods.
You can change the plugs from the top or bottom of the car, but I find it easier to do it from the bottom. You can use a regular spark plug socket and you might find it useful to have a 3" extension for some of the plugs. Do one plug at a time so you don't mix up the plug wire connections. Use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads so they will be easy to remove in the future without damaging the aluminum rotor housing. The torque spec is just 14 ft-lbs, so be careful not to over-tighten them.
-Max
08-26-02, 06:21 AM
#4
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Originally posted by maxcooper
Each rotor housing has two plugs. The lower plug is the leading plug and the top plug is the Trailing plug (easy to remember because of the T -- Trailing is on Top). There are two rotor housings, so you have a total of four plugs -- two leading and two trailing.
The stock plugs are heat range 7 for leading and heat range 9 for trailing, but they are otherwise extremely similar. Higher numbers are "colder" plugs, which you use in a "hotter" environment. So, if you used a 7 plug and it deteriorated from heat too quickly, you would move to a colder plug like a 9. Colder plugs make cold starts harder and foul more easily, so you can't just throw in a set of 13s and be done with it -- you'd foul them too quickly (assuming you could even get the car started). You really want to get the "right" plugs -- not too hot or too cold.
The stock plugs are NGK surface gap plugs. They are weird and much more expensive than the plugs for other cars. Some people run some other plugs in the car (like NGK B10-EGV) that are more normal looking, but are still somewhat expensive motorcycle racing plugs. I recommend the stock style plugs unless you know what you are doing and have a special socket to install other plugs.
I suggest you stick with the 7L/9T combo unless you have done lots of mods to the car (full exhaust, IC, more boost, etc.). You will have a smoother idle and the car will start easier. Many people (including me) run 9s all around to prolong plug life and avoid too much heat in the leading plug. You can just ask the Mazda dealer for "four trailing plugs" to get all 9s. If you already have them, you should be fine with all 9s, but 7&9s might be better if you don't have lots of mods.
You can change the plugs from the top or bottom of the car, but I find it easier to do it from the bottom. You can use a regular spark plug socket and you might find it useful to have a 3" extension for some of the plugs. Do one plug at a time so you don't mix up the plug wire connections. Use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads so they will be easy to remove in the future without damaging the aluminum rotor housing. The torque spec is just 14 ft-lbs, so be careful not to over-tighten them.
-Max
Each rotor housing has two plugs. The lower plug is the leading plug and the top plug is the Trailing plug (easy to remember because of the T -- Trailing is on Top). There are two rotor housings, so you have a total of four plugs -- two leading and two trailing.
The stock plugs are heat range 7 for leading and heat range 9 for trailing, but they are otherwise extremely similar. Higher numbers are "colder" plugs, which you use in a "hotter" environment. So, if you used a 7 plug and it deteriorated from heat too quickly, you would move to a colder plug like a 9. Colder plugs make cold starts harder and foul more easily, so you can't just throw in a set of 13s and be done with it -- you'd foul them too quickly (assuming you could even get the car started). You really want to get the "right" plugs -- not too hot or too cold.
The stock plugs are NGK surface gap plugs. They are weird and much more expensive than the plugs for other cars. Some people run some other plugs in the car (like NGK B10-EGV) that are more normal looking, but are still somewhat expensive motorcycle racing plugs. I recommend the stock style plugs unless you know what you are doing and have a special socket to install other plugs.
I suggest you stick with the 7L/9T combo unless you have done lots of mods to the car (full exhaust, IC, more boost, etc.). You will have a smoother idle and the car will start easier. Many people (including me) run 9s all around to prolong plug life and avoid too much heat in the leading plug. You can just ask the Mazda dealer for "four trailing plugs" to get all 9s. If you already have them, you should be fine with all 9s, but 7&9s might be better if you don't have lots of mods.
You can change the plugs from the top or bottom of the car, but I find it easier to do it from the bottom. You can use a regular spark plug socket and you might find it useful to have a 3" extension for some of the plugs. Do one plug at a time so you don't mix up the plug wire connections. Use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads so they will be easy to remove in the future without damaging the aluminum rotor housing. The torque spec is just 14 ft-lbs, so be careful not to over-tighten them.
-Max
-Rikki
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