Spark Plug Recomendations
#26
I've had these plugs in for a while and they've been on the stock ecu with some mods, peter farrell ecu with more mods and lately they were on an Apexi PFC with even more mods... They have seen some wear and tear, thats for sure. As for running lean, they've probably been all over the place.
#27
they just look old like its time to throw them out
The P stands for platinum and those will last longer than the normal
I used to take out my plugs every 3k or so miles and clean them they last for 12k miles easy like that
heres a little trick for you next time
put some kind of lubricant on the tips of the spark plugs with your fingers so the boot will actually go on anc youll hear a click and you wont have to push like hercules in that fuked position that your hand is in. Engine oil would tend to eat at the silicone plug wire boot so use maybe some cooking oil or silicone libricant vasaline whatever
The P stands for platinum and those will last longer than the normal
I used to take out my plugs every 3k or so miles and clean them they last for 12k miles easy like that
heres a little trick for you next time
put some kind of lubricant on the tips of the spark plugs with your fingers so the boot will actually go on anc youll hear a click and you wont have to push like hercules in that fuked position that your hand is in. Engine oil would tend to eat at the silicone plug wire boot so use maybe some cooking oil or silicone libricant vasaline whatever
#29
Try Dielectric grease for that lubricant, it's built for that exact location, and as a bonus it helps keep parts from corroding due to moisture or contamination. You should be able to find it at your local auto shop, it often comes pre-packaged with anti-seize, which you should be using on the threaded side of the plug.
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#30
Originally Posted by scotty305
Try Dielectric grease for that lubricant, it's built for that exact location, and as a bonus it helps keep parts from corroding due to moisture or contamination. You should be able to find it at your local auto shop, it often comes pre-packaged with anti-seize, which you should be using on the threaded side of the plug.
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#31
Anti-seize prevents a plug from getting stuck after many miles of use. So if you replace your plugs frequently you should not have a problem not using it. I never use anti-seize.
dis1
dis1
#32
couple of interesting things were that... on the frotn rotor the leading plug was alittle loose. A little bit of oil seeped out and i mean a very little. Also on the rear leading the coil was loose.
The plugs didnt even look that bad after 14k miles on them.
The plugs didnt even look that bad after 14k miles on them.
#33
Just a note on installing plugs. The plugs are designed to cool using among other things the thread contact on the housing. Its important to tighten them to spec. A loose plug will run much hotter often with a mixture on the lean side it will melt the plug. That's hot and we don't want that.
#34
Originally Posted by KaiFD3S
I am running all 9's
werd, all oem 9s, works excellent, even with increased boost. same with oem wires........ no problems up to 13-13.5psi............. just remember to change them often, like once a month................
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