While my FD is awaiting heart surgery, I've been working on my significant other's FD for a while now, troubleshooting the sequential system. Well, it basically came down to a blown set of turbos. Luckily, we have a lot of extras lying around.

But I digress. Anyways, I get all of the 10mm and 14mm bolts off, with th exception of the center one. It was on there REALLY tight. While trying to get it off, it marred my socket, while also stripping itself.

I would normally toss on a gator grip on there, but there just isn't enough space. I also tried to leverage a smaller socket with a piece of wood, but no luck. I also can't fit a drill in that little of space. Short of removing the motor, I'm all out of ideas. The space constraint makes it incredibly difficult to use any of the normal solutions I'd normally use to un stick a stuck nut. (say that 5 times fast)

I'm highly considering filling my marred 14mm socket with JBweld and just leaving that on the nut overnight, but I'm sure there's a better solution.

Circled in yellow is the problematic nut:


If anyone can figure out a workable solution, I'll bring you a six pack at 7Stock.

 

Just to clear up any potential confusion, the pic above is not an actual pic of what's going on. The motor is still in the car.

 

Id say buy a set of nut extractors. Same size as a socket, should be able to get it on there.

 

Not sure from reading your post if you rounded the nut or not. If that is the case, there is a set of sockets that work by applying grip to the flat portion of the nut rather than the corners, also a set of open-end wrenches that do the same. Sears sells them. I used them on in some instances where rounding a nut or bolt was likely and they worked very well. I can't remember if that included the one you are stuck on so can't say for sure it would help.

If that doesn’t help, I kind of like your idea. I am not sure it would work, but either way, you could drink the beer and fell much better. RD

 

Time for a set of Metrinch's?

http://www.metrinch.com/

 

I would use a nut extractor socket but first, spray some penetrating oil onto the stud and let it sit for a while. It's not the nut that caused the problem, it's the stud that got seized. I believe the nuts were ment to lock onto the studs. I'll bet that most of the ones you pulled out, the stud came with it. If you don't use some sort of penetrating oil, I'm pretty sure the stud is going to break.

 

The man has a cap bolt to extract there folks, NOT a nut. Here is what I would do. First except that the bolt is wasted now so when you get it out look for another. Forget about JB weld, useless here. I believe the bolt is a 14mm....anyway get your 6 point sockets out in SAE and metric. Put sockets on the head until you feel you've found one that grabs really well. Then taking a small hammer and long punch, rap around on the head of the bolt from underneath the car. The goal is to send some vibrations thru the bolt to help loosen it's grip. Then take the six point and making sure it is sitting flush on the bolt head begin to apply the torque to loosen it SLOWLY. Work it back and forth.

It'll come out




Later

 

that bolt is gonna snap as soon as you get a good bite with what ever tool you use,good luck

 

I might not be a bad idea to snap it. You will still be able to remove the turbos. After they're out you'll have more access to it and you could also remove the exhaust manifold to take it to a machine shop. It's what I did.

 

I think we all have experienced this problem. I know i have a few times sadly. I found this product particularly useful. Since you got the 14mm size nut stuck in there good, i recommend using the 15mm bolt out. 14mm would always be a tight fight and learned that using the next size larger works wonders. Once it gets snug on there, the rest is history.

Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover
Sears item# 00952165000 Mfr. model# 52165

 

Thanks for the advice, fellas.

Yeah, I used a good helping of penetrating lube on all the nuts. I usually pre-lube the night before, prior to doing any turbo related work, but I just did not have the time to do so. Now I'm totally paying for it.

 

EASY!!! Get some PB Blaster on it and let it sit for a day. Then heat up the nut with a torch till cherry read. Then simply use some locking plyers to tightly grab it and rotate it off! Just make sure not to heat the stud. I've used this concept many times and it ALWAYS works...

 

I thought is was one of the bolts you rounded off. After looking closer it is a 14mm locknut. This makes it real easy. A little heat and a 6 point socket and it's off.


Later

 

You def can't get vice grips into that small space.

What you really need is a "turbo socket". Sears may have a set of them, it's like an inverted easy out (but unlike an easy out they actually work) and they're 3/8" drive.

They're great. If the 14mm turbosocket doesn't work, then the next size down always does.

 

+1 on the PB Blaster. It's bailed me out too many times to count.

 

Weld a new nut on with a wire feed welder (or donate a socket to the cause) - make it a bolt.

Remove.

 

If you have access to Kroil or AeroKroil, IMHO, an even better penetrant. . .

Let it sit for at least 3-hrs. after first application, add some vibration as mentioned before, add some more penetrant, wait 1-hour, then work it gently back and forth giving an additional squirt of penetrant ever 30-seconds or so.

Good luck,

:-) neil

PS: use high-temp (nickel-based) anti-seize when re-assembling . . .

 

I've done this on a bunch of occasions when the exhaust studs on the motorcycles I work on break, or the customer/prior tech etc.. cross threaded and rounded the nut trying to remove it again.

Worked every time so far.

 

Hehe, if only we all had access to a welder.

I'm definitely going to try out those Craftsman bolt-out dealies. The reason I didn't even bother to think of this solution is that the previous ones I've used of other brands were rather large. It's nice to see that the Craftsman brand is a low-profile design.

 

I'm pretty sure they're craftsman, but I'd double check before you spend the gas to get down to sears. Worst case, snap-on or mac will have them.

 

Getting a wire-feed tip in there might prove a real challenge anyway.