Which side of my clutch disc is supposed to face the fly wheel?
#1
apeiron
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Which side of my clutch disc is supposed to face the fly wheel?
The clutch disc has a side that sticks out further than the other side as shown in the pictures. Which side is supposed to face the fly wheel, the side that sticks out or the flush side?
Thanks
Thanks
#5
apeiron
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well here is the thing,
I installed it the right direction already according to you guys. Something did not feel right after the installation, I went to go test and see how it feels from inside the cabin and there was constant tension on the clutch pedal, the tension was static and did not change depressed or pressed all the way in ulike my OEM clutch where there was a little bit of play when it was depressed and once I pressed it in all the way the tension is reduced
I am not sure if this is just how it is supposed to feel or if I need to bleed the system (I should not have to since I haven't touched it at all)
End of story, I pulled the engine out again last night since it is easier for me to pull the engine than drop the transmission and I will be reinstalling it.
Pain in the ***
I installed it the right direction already according to you guys. Something did not feel right after the installation, I went to go test and see how it feels from inside the cabin and there was constant tension on the clutch pedal, the tension was static and did not change depressed or pressed all the way in ulike my OEM clutch where there was a little bit of play when it was depressed and once I pressed it in all the way the tension is reduced
I am not sure if this is just how it is supposed to feel or if I need to bleed the system (I should not have to since I haven't touched it at all)
End of story, I pulled the engine out again last night since it is easier for me to pull the engine than drop the transmission and I will be reinstalling it.
Pain in the ***
#7
Is the wedge collar properly installed on the clutch cover forks? The release bearing should mate with the wedge collar. I just used a pry bar through the inspection hole and mated the release bearing to it.
No need to remove the engine!
No need to remove the engine!
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#8
apeiron
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Just finished dropping the engine again and bolting it up... still feels the same, I guess that is how an ACT Heavy Duty clutch feels versus a stock clutch?
I wish I knew what these clutches are supposed to feel like for comparison --- wont be able to fire the car up till I get my turbo back.
I wish I knew what these clutches are supposed to feel like for comparison --- wont be able to fire the car up till I get my turbo back.
#9
Just finished dropping the engine again and bolting it up... still feels the same, I guess that is how an ACT Heavy Duty clutch feels versus a stock clutch?
I wish I knew what these clutches are supposed to feel like for comparison --- wont be able to fire the car up till I get my turbo back.
I wish I knew what these clutches are supposed to feel like for comparison --- wont be able to fire the car up till I get my turbo back.
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apeiron
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The whole reason that I had any concern with the clutch install in the first place was due to the fact that when I have the clutch pressed in all the way, I have a difficult time changing gears as if the clutch pedal was being pressed down at all...
Keep in mind, I am waiting on my turbo to get back so I can not start the engine, but that shouldn't matter right?
When shifting gears, clutch pedal pressed down or not, it feels exactly the same... Wish I could just start the damn engine already and find out if it is ok.
Keep in mind, I am waiting on my turbo to get back so I can not start the engine, but that shouldn't matter right?
When shifting gears, clutch pedal pressed down or not, it feels exactly the same... Wish I could just start the damn engine already and find out if it is ok.
#12
talking head
alter the adjust under the pedal to achieve 1 inch drop before any hydraulic take up
you may have to look at the slave rod in the bay, and make sure its not hung up in an out position
( and it may want shortening, as if you mix NA and turbo units on the wrong box , the rod will be incorrect ,,, the lugs on slaves are different spots )
and if all that proves fine
then the next two most obvious reasons you need to bottom out the clutch pedal
to find a gear are-
( can only be tested with engine running )
shitty hydraulics that leak, or pass back to bowl
( usually a light pedal, or it drives away with clutch in at the lights )
- in that scenario, before you spend $$ on new parts, try changing fluid to tranny fluid
- start by blending trans fluid and brake fluid
( milkshake it, and pump it through to grade, topping up all time with just trans, takes time to prime and get going well )
this works very well as a hydraulic medium for clutches, and doesn't shrink the seals like brake fluid will
( its actually pretty gentle on the seals )
a leaky hydraulic system that is no good with brake fluid will last many more years running just trans fluid
or else
your crank's spigot bearing is rooted
and it is dragging the gearbox input shaft along despite the clutch disengaged
( neither of the last two would present a hard pedal at rest symptom )
you may have to look at the slave rod in the bay, and make sure its not hung up in an out position
( and it may want shortening, as if you mix NA and turbo units on the wrong box , the rod will be incorrect ,,, the lugs on slaves are different spots )
and if all that proves fine
then the next two most obvious reasons you need to bottom out the clutch pedal
to find a gear are-
( can only be tested with engine running )
shitty hydraulics that leak, or pass back to bowl
( usually a light pedal, or it drives away with clutch in at the lights )
- in that scenario, before you spend $$ on new parts, try changing fluid to tranny fluid
- start by blending trans fluid and brake fluid
( milkshake it, and pump it through to grade, topping up all time with just trans, takes time to prime and get going well )
this works very well as a hydraulic medium for clutches, and doesn't shrink the seals like brake fluid will
( its actually pretty gentle on the seals )
a leaky hydraulic system that is no good with brake fluid will last many more years running just trans fluid
or else
your crank's spigot bearing is rooted
and it is dragging the gearbox input shaft along despite the clutch disengaged
( neither of the last two would present a hard pedal at rest symptom )
#14
apeiron
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I think I may just need to grease / lubricate the transmission input shaft --- can this be done without pulling the transmission off?
I never applied any grease when dropping the engine back in.
I never applied any grease when dropping the engine back in.
#15
When the car is not started, it does not matter at all if you press in your clutch or not and change gears-it will feel the same.
As for the stiffer clutch, it is supposed to feel like that. 1) Because (I'm assuming) your clutch is brand new and 2) it is aftermarket. Now you're left leg is going to have more muscle in it than your right, just like mine will be soon haha.
You could try greasing the input shaft, but you won't be able to do that while the clutch/pressure plate are surrounding it.
As for the stiffer clutch, it is supposed to feel like that. 1) Because (I'm assuming) your clutch is brand new and 2) it is aftermarket. Now you're left leg is going to have more muscle in it than your right, just like mine will be soon haha.
You could try greasing the input shaft, but you won't be able to do that while the clutch/pressure plate are surrounding it.
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