Grab a socket and a long breaker bar and see if you can move the engine clockwise with it in the car, that will tell you if it's "seized" or not.

What it sounds like to me is that the guy over boosted it and it went boom (hence the low asking price). If that is what happened you'll need a replacement rotor, housing, all the gaskets/orings (cost a lot more than you'd think), seals, bearings. You also need to check your oil pan when you get it off and see if there is any debris in there. Don't want to ruin a new engine from the crap floating around in there, which means you'll need to get your oil coolers cleaned as well. Turbos are probably ruined if he blew a seal. Thats 3-5k if you do all the work yourself AND you're buying used parts.

On the other hand if you enjoy that and get the car REAL cheap I'd say go for it as long as you have another car to DD.

Is it pretty much stock or are there a lot of aftermarket parts on it? That would have a lot to do with my decision as well.

 

ok well i just picked up the car today... cleaned it... and charged the battery
9cuz it has been sitting for almost 2 years)... i put the battery in the car and the tried starting the car... crank,crank, crank and it started right up... WTF!!! haha... NOw what... I now there should be some things i should do and things to change and check considering it has been sitting for 2 years

 

Does this mean there is not a seized rotor?

 

O_o

Id do a lot of researching and diagnosing before you do any driving. I thought mine was running perfect when it took a ****

 

same with mine it ran great and then went to start it a few days ago and no compression..

 

If it runs there is definitely not a seized rotor :P.

I'll second doing a good diagnostics on the car, if someone thought something was as wrong as a seized rotor it would be pretty unlikely that nothing was wrong at all. But it's a good sign that it started and ran, could prove to be a really good purchase!

 

lol an FD is never a "really good purchase" there's just varying degrees of money pits.

 

how long did it take to fire up? if it took a while and has been sitting for so long it is entirely possible that it had just lost fuel pressure and the previous owner just never cranked it long enough to get enough fuel in the lines to build up pressure.

 

it literally started right up... like 2-3 cranks. i have not driven it yet... and it rsn rough...

 

Seized? No. However, that doesn't mean everything is in the green yet. Do a compression test to see where you stand:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

 

I completely disagree, my FD is the best automotive purchase I've ever made. On top of being the most fun I'm pretty sure I have less invested in it than it's worth . Like I said, some people like to just throw money at problems, and an FD can be an expensive car to do that with lol .

 

i tested the front rotor and its at 90

 

You need to test both rotors and make sure all three faces are producing even compression per rotor.

 

matt, does the car have a boost gauge? How much vacuum is it pulling at idle?

 

lol!

 

If i can remember right, i think it was around 10

 

thats good advice

 

why would I give you advice? it's not like you are gonna take it anyway. This thread is for those that tell you what you want to hear.

But ok here's some advice:
You lucked out in the engine is not seized department. But you are far from the clear, even if the compression is good. Because FD's EAT MONEY, i.e. sooner or later it wil have a problem and you better be financially prepared for it. And $1200 is nothing to these cars.


Good luck.

 

I am just about to buy another motor and the guy says that the front rotor has a compression of 90 and the rear has no compression. I am not going to buy this motor i just want to know what it means when this happens... thanks

 

means the motor is blown.

Compression of 100 or higher means you are loving life. Strong motor ~ throw a keg party
Compression of 99 - 95 motor is starting to get worn. Still has life ~ can still party
Compression of 94-90 motor is tired. Life is staring you in the face ~ time to sober up
Compression of 89 and below. If it ain't blown it's gonna be soon ~ throw a keg party to numb the pain.

Compression of zero means that the motor shot an apex seal either out the tailpipe or got sucked into the turbos. Best case scenario: it scratched the **** out of your rotor housing and went straight out the tail pipe. Worst case: It scratched the **** out of your rotor housing, dented your rotor, got sucked into the turbos for a second round of fun and fucked them up as well.

You can figure middle ground on that one.

Hope this helps

 

spend rebuild money on hookers and blow to ease your pain!

 

Still no pictures of the car? I swear this is starting to feel like a troll thread if I was on another forum.

 

If you buy another motor... Id recommend rebuilding it before you drop it in... those used jdm engines are good for nothing but spare parts when it comes to rotaries.

Rebuild regardless...

 

+1... Amen to that!!

 

Two things:

1. Where are the pictures?
2. What are the compression numbers for the rear rotor!?