For a basic first test, it's good. It will not find all malfunctioning solenoids, that is my point.

But it only tests the electrical portion of the solenoid in an unloaded environment. If you do it, I recommend also measuring the resistance which should be about 40Ohms total for a cool car, or around 50-60 Ohms for a hot engine.

Dave

 

Yesterday I go to efs.o garage to try to solve the problem.
We check the solenoid valve with that way and is work (harness and electrical test).Also we found 2 check valve damage.
For this reason efs.o take from his car check valves who work 100% and try it to my car but again my car have the same problem .
My car boost properly ,engine rise rpm but the car didnt go its like 100 horse power car.

Many thanks to efs.o who work over 4 hours on my car and for his patience.

I hope to see you soon for a drink and not for work next time

 

Sounds like a fuel or ignition issue. If your not getting enough fuel, it will have low boost as well.

 

I dont think that is fuel problem because from exhaust I take gas.
Also I wait magnecor spark plug wires and I have change the spark plug.The coil I dont think that have problem.
Maybe the problem is the exhaust as efs.o said so I go to look and the exhaust.

 

I suppose you should start with inspecting the catalytic converter - most aftermarket cats break loose due to the extreme heat of rotary exhaust.

However, exhaust problems usually come with reduced boost. Is your boost pattern now normal?

Dave

 

His boost pattern is almost perfect,passed KOKO test,pressure chamber holds pressure(with good check valves),so the only thing left to do is to check the CAT and the CAT-BACK,as Dave also suggested.I looked below,and it seems that the car has an aftermarket CAT,but cannot tell for sure.

 

A bad cat will only affect flow, which usually hurts performance by reducing boost levels, and is usually noticeable more at the higher RPM. I would check that (since aftermarket cats often fail) but the symptoms don't seem to align very well. But it's relatively easy to check - just remove it, shake it, and look in with a light. So that's a good next step.

I would look at something else - drivetrain problem (bad differential?) or the injectors dumping fuel and causing it to bog. Running it with a wideband attached will verify if the injectors are dumping the amount of fuel they should.

Dave

 

Today I check the exhaust system.
The method that mechanic use is with O2 sensor. He take out the O2 sensor and connect a pressure gauge in it place then start the engine and see if it have back pressure but the car it have not a back pressure only at 5-6000 rpm shows 3 psi max for a moment.
Mechanic told me after the test that the exhaust system work fine and the cat is in good condition.
Is that method good enough or I have to go to another mechanic to put out the cat?

Finaly if and the cat is good what is the next step?

 

I would trust that test for the exhaust.

So you have a good exhaust, good boost pattern - that leaves fuel or ignition. And it's probably a fuel problem. Since I'm not riding in the car to feel the problem, I have to guess it's not getting enough fuel to the engine.

1) When was the fuel filter last changed? (It should be changed every 20,000km or so).
2) Were the fuel injectors ever cleaned? <- this is unfortunately the most likely cause.

Dave

 

I have change the fuel filter before 500 km when I buy the car.I change the fuel filter with miata mx-5 type because is the same but it have not any difference.Before I change the filter the car have the same power.
The injectors never.
But I am thinking to buy a cleaner liquid and mixed it with the gaz.
And if that dont make any difference then I have to take it out and clean it to special service.
Finaly have you ever see a vacuum rack with 3 pipe empty?
All the schematics that I have see Have 1 pipe empty my car have 3 but it have all the solenoid connected as I have see with efs.o help.

 

Your car probably has less emissions accessories than the US model, or the owner removed them. On the vacuum diagram, the ones you need for boost are: Charge Control, Charge Relief, Turbo Control 1, Turbo Control 2, Wastegate, and Precontrol. Of course, the Wg and Pc can be removed if you use a boost controller.

Dave

 

Ok
Back again with clean injectors and all stock hoses replace them with new silicone.
But the car have the same problem and one more.
Now some times when the engine is idle the fans dont work but when you press the pedal then sometimes begin to work and if I release the pedal and engine is idle then stop the fans !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Also I have a switch to open the funs when I want for example in a traffic I open the fun early so I keep the engine in low temperature.Now if I turn the switch when the engine is idle then the engine is going to stop or the rpm falls.
It seems to me that now I have 2 problems one the accelaration and one new maybe short circuit in harness I guess.

To be continued.............

 

Have some news
The problem with fans is solved I check the connections in fuse box and one wire is complete out I suppose that mechanic who take out the injectors forget to reconect all the wires after job and after replacing the main fuse 120a who have burn.
Today I replace spark plug wires with magnecor 10mm racing.
The car now work perfect it run very smooth and accelarate very fast.
It take over 60% power.
I dont know if it runs like rx7 fd, I will know that after efs.o drive my car and told me his opinion.
Also I would like to ask something.
When I start the car cold and I have the hook open I see smoke in the engine bay who come out from left side between firewall and downpipe.I dont know if the downpipe is fault or turbos or something else but smoke go out from there.
After 20 minute driving the smoke stop.
What is this?

 

Does it smell like oil, or does it smell like coolant? Are you losing any coolant?

If it smells like coolant, you may have a turbo coolant hose leaking. This is quite common, since the turbo-coolant hoses are a known coolant leak point. If you are using antifreeze, this leaking coolant can puddle on the turbo housing and the water will evaporate. The remaining pure antifreeze is VERY flammable, and can cause a fire.

If it smells like oil, it could come from a variety of places - turbos, OMP lines, oil pan leaks, etc.

 

It is not oil or water is exhaust smoke

 

You either have a big exhaust leak, or something on the outside of the exhaust that smokes when it gets hot.

It is common for that part of my engine bay to make some smoke after working in that area. Also, like DaveB said, it's common for the turbo coolant hoses to leak.

You could try adding a little ATF into a spark plug hole (a spoonful) and starting the car. It will make a bunch of smoke for a couple minutes, but if the problem is an exhaust leak it will be easier to see.

Dave

 

What is ATF sorry

 

Automatic Transmission Fluid

 

Finaly we solve the problem of my car.
Sunday I go to efs.o place to make some job like new air box , compression test ,etc.
So when I try to take off the ignition connector to prepare the car for compression test one wire from ignition connector didnt make good contact so wire come out from connector.
I solder it and now the car run like RX7.
Many thanks to efs.o great job.