RX-7 won't start! Girl in need!
#26
Gabriel Gonzales = Crook.
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Texas
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Originally posted by LUV94RX7
I'm going to figure you are legit.
Where do you live in TX?
I bet there is a knowlegible FD person close enough that would be willing to assist you.
I'm going to figure you are legit.
Where do you live in TX?
I bet there is a knowlegible FD person close enough that would be willing to assist you.
#30
Perpetual Project
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by RX7turboracerX
I think all the guys caller her bluff scared her away......
either that or she was maken it up, but it doesn't make sense to me why some1 would make it up........
I think all the guys caller her bluff scared her away......
either that or she was maken it up, but it doesn't make sense to me why some1 would make it up........
Anyways, hopefully the poster has enough info to go with now.
Daniel
#31
getting your car unflooded
I have had problems with my 94. I was told I neeed to let the car warm up befor turning it of or it could flood, which it has done twice now. Try going to lightning in a world of thunder and look under how to engine. Then go to starting a flooded car and read it and try it or have your dad or a mechanic to try it. It has worked on mine and is not that difficult. Good luck hope that is all it is and not a blown engine.
#33
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Location: Boulder Colorado
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Ok, so she hasn't responded lately...but I'm gona post this anyway. Please let us know where you are located, that way we can tell you who to call about this situation. There is no way you would have known better, so don't beat yourself up. What it sounds like is the engine was flooded, not a horrible thing and certainly would not blow the engine. Either that or they sold you a car that had a bad engine that was about to go bad. If you aren't a car person you wouldn't notice the signs of a blown engine, very rough idle, smoke, wrong sounds, etc. BTW, lets us know what dealership you bought it from . I'm a full time college student as well, work 35 hours a week to afford this car, and spend many hours under the hood...so this probably isn't the right car for you. They are totally dicking you, EVERYONE...the dealer...the mechanic.. if the motor is blown you wouldn't pay half of what they quoted you. Hope this helps.....
P.S. if you are at Tech, SFA, or A&M you are screwed...doubt anyone in a 200 mile radius of those towns would know anything about the rotary, or not charge you through the roof.
P.S. if you are at Tech, SFA, or A&M you are screwed...doubt anyone in a 200 mile radius of those towns would know anything about the rotary, or not charge you through the roof.
#34
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by Garrett
Forget all of these guys on here that are discouraging you, they are just flexing there ego because of your limited experience with RX-7s, nothing more.
Forget all of these guys on here that are discouraging you, they are just flexing there ego because of your limited experience with RX-7s, nothing more.
#35
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Greensboro, NC
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Due to my lack of knowing essential inside jargon, John, I have no idea what trolling means. I'm guessing it has something to do with the invalidity of it being an innocent girl and rather a troll or mischievous person. Whatever her deal is, I felt a simple helpful response was in order, she seemed pretty coherent and uncalculating.
#37
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
troll - to fish by trailing a lure or baited hook from a moving boat
Although typically used to get a rise out of people (i.e. posting a 'Rotaries suck because...' on an RX-7 web site), I think this poster is trying to make us look foolish by generating sympathetic responses. I don't believe this person exists. If I did, I would offer whatever help I could. It's probably a 14 year old boy who didn't get enough attention growing up.
I, of course, could be wrong. If this is the case, then I apologize 'RX7gurl'.
Enough said.
Although typically used to get a rise out of people (i.e. posting a 'Rotaries suck because...' on an RX-7 web site), I think this poster is trying to make us look foolish by generating sympathetic responses. I don't believe this person exists. If I did, I would offer whatever help I could. It's probably a 14 year old boy who didn't get enough attention growing up.
I, of course, could be wrong. If this is the case, then I apologize 'RX7gurl'.
Enough said.
Last edited by johnchabin; 02-03-03 at 09:36 AM.
#39
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I just don't understand why someone would make it up, I mean...what do we care!?!? Someone asks for assistance from the forums and we gave it, if anything we were nice and helpful...and proved the kind of community we are. Some were, and are, a bit annoyed...but you can't just walk into a community and expect them to give you answers, without any information or help on your behalf. What else could they have expected to happen by making it up?
#42
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whoa....
dont know what to say.
wonder if that HIGH PERFORMANCE engine comes with pistons too.
but seriously..do what these guys said. take it to an rx7 shop.
*i did NOT read the WHOLE thread, so if i said something wrong.
SHOOT ME.
wonder if that HIGH PERFORMANCE engine comes with pistons too.
but seriously..do what these guys said. take it to an rx7 shop.
*i did NOT read the WHOLE thread, so if i said something wrong.
SHOOT ME.
#43
White smoke and alot of it is a sighn of coolant being burned in the the cumbustion chamber. If you have a loss off coolant and/or overpressureing of the coolant system this mean that the innner and/or outter water jackets are not sealing and letting water into the cumbution chamber. This ussually results in overheating of the engine, hard and/or no starting of the car, and big lack of power while running.
Checks you can do.
1. coolant presure test. if there is a break in the water jackets you will see a slight drop of coolant pressure due to coolant entering the cumbustion chamber. they have this bike pump looking thing they do with you car off to put pressure in the radiator.
2. coolant color. it should be a pure neon green color. if any type of black or brown flim and/or color in the coolant. This means that cumbustion gases are mixing in with the coolant giving you that color.
3. spark plugs. they should have a nice black color to it.
you should still be able to see the metal at the tip but with a nice black layer. any type of white , dark brown , amber, dark dark gray and.or bulid up of anykind indicates that you car is burning something other then oil and gas. ie coolant
4. Compression check can or cannot be good still depending on water jacket leakage. there shouldn't be nor more then 10% difference between chamber(all six rotor faces NOT front and rear rotor) and anything below 75psi means a rebuild should be done.
If you have two or more of these its a water jacket. and only way to get to them is to disasemble the engine. SORRY.
EE. The prices are 20 hours *$85 = $1700 install and removal
EE. $2300 to 3500 for a rebuild
if any one else gives you anything higher thier over charging you. there are little things like injector seals and fuel filter,,,etc. but they should not come out to more then $400 to 600 total. if you looking for a good engine try rtracing.com give them a call they will give you a break most of the time on prices.
good luck and i hope that all the goof ***** on the forum didn't confuse you to much
Checks you can do.
1. coolant presure test. if there is a break in the water jackets you will see a slight drop of coolant pressure due to coolant entering the cumbustion chamber. they have this bike pump looking thing they do with you car off to put pressure in the radiator.
2. coolant color. it should be a pure neon green color. if any type of black or brown flim and/or color in the coolant. This means that cumbustion gases are mixing in with the coolant giving you that color.
3. spark plugs. they should have a nice black color to it.
you should still be able to see the metal at the tip but with a nice black layer. any type of white , dark brown , amber, dark dark gray and.or bulid up of anykind indicates that you car is burning something other then oil and gas. ie coolant
4. Compression check can or cannot be good still depending on water jacket leakage. there shouldn't be nor more then 10% difference between chamber(all six rotor faces NOT front and rear rotor) and anything below 75psi means a rebuild should be done.
If you have two or more of these its a water jacket. and only way to get to them is to disasemble the engine. SORRY.
EE. The prices are 20 hours *$85 = $1700 install and removal
EE. $2300 to 3500 for a rebuild
if any one else gives you anything higher thier over charging you. there are little things like injector seals and fuel filter,,,etc. but they should not come out to more then $400 to 600 total. if you looking for a good engine try rtracing.com give them a call they will give you a break most of the time on prices.
good luck and i hope that all the goof ***** on the forum didn't confuse you to much
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trickster
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