Forget my experience for the moment. Do you not accept as a fact that AG, the designer and manufacturer, does not recommend the ATX 30 battery for use in an FD? Do you not accept as a fact that the ATX30 restart feature, because it activates at a higher voltage level than what is designed for cars, is a potential failure point if you decide to run one in an FD? Do you not accept as a fact that AG recommends other batteries instead, namely the ATX 30 HD and the 51R series?

And lastly, as I said, AG has many experiences that I am sure they will share with you of failures of the use of the ATX 30 in other cars, you just have to ask.

These are the facts that you seem to choose to continuously ignore. Frankly, it's frustrating and I am really not sure why you are digging in your heels on this. It would be fine to say I now understand these facts but the ATX 30 is working for me and I am okay with the known risks.

 

Kindly note he is running the ATX HD version which is the one that I use as well. It's the one recommended by AG.

 

Are you really arguing that a documented feature/behavior on your battery is somehow your word against his and an opinion? I mean **** he's literally provided the verbatim response from AG on this matter.

I'm just going to continue restating this fact for anyone else who ventures into this.

If your voltage drops to ~12.5 or below even momentarily the "restart" feature in this battery will trigger and put the battery into protection mode until you pop the hood and press the restart button. You will most likely lose all electrical power in this situation.

It's the end user's choice whether or not they are willing to accept that risk. EVS.TurboTuner clearly is and that's fine. However it is not an opinion or an anecdote that using this battery does introduce the risk. It is clear from the manufacturer what will happen if your voltage crosses that threshold.

The larger 51R from AG with the same restart feature does not really introduce this risk because the capacity of the battery is much larger. With this smaller capacity model being discussed you do not have nearly as much buffer or tolerance built in and it can make the restart logic a liability.

The HD models do not have the restart feature and thus do not introduce this risk.

It is clearly stated on AG's product page the makes/models that are known based on customer feedback to encounter this issue. The list is large enough that it clearly can be an issue when used in applications beyond what the ATX-30 was designed for.

 

This.

But the setup has been rock solid. No issues whatsoever.

 

Sounds good, that is a powersports battery too right? How long have you been running it?

 

On another note, Sake Bomb Garage has been immense in the RX-7 community on products and support. I have no doubt they have more actual experiences in selling these batteries than anyone else on here. I doubt they would risk their reputation over a battery that may not work with the car. Cause if I encounter a problem it will look bad on their part recommending this battery. But as of right now its been one of the best purchases under $500 I have made on the RX-7.

 

Do you not bother to read what has been posted here? Yes, it is a powersports battery and yes, it is the one I run as well. Works great. Now, why is it suitable while the regular one you have is not? I'd give you the answer but it has been posted a number of times already.

 

I've got nothing but nice things to say about SB in general, but I'm cracking up over here that you are suggesting they know more about AG's battery than AG does.

The reason it is not recommended is covered in this thread ad nauseam.

 

And you think SBG has more expertise and knowledge than the actual company that designs and manufactures the batteries? Dude, to ignore the facts here is doing you a disservice and it is making me wonder about the true intent of your review.

Go back and read what AG stated about SBG - they are going to go back to their customer service reps and use this as a training example of "what not to do."

Also, note I posted up the info I have offered in this thread quite a few months ago in the SBG potential group buy for the battery. I believe when they first started the GB, the other options - ATX HD version and the 51R series - did not yet exist. But now, when there are a number of other, better and more suitable options, I'd like to think they would upgrade their choice. And remember, you too can do this simply by contacting AG and paying the difference in cost.

 

I bought my AntiGravity 51r size battery back in April. $680 I think was the cost delivered and with 1000 CCA and the RX8 upgraded starter my engine starts as soon as the key turns. The car sat for about 2 1/2 months with the battery disconnected and it fired up like normal as soon as I hooked everything back up. Car sits for a week or so at a time now and I'm extremely satisfied. My one and only complaint is the exterior casing at the bottom is wider than a 51r battery by about 1/4" on each side due to a little tab they have molded into the casing. I had to file it down to fit in my Turbo Jeff Battery tray. Not the end of the world but I wasn't thrilled to do this to a near $700.00 battery. Going off memory I think it weighed in right at 9lbs when I unpackaged it.

 

Overcharging and depleting are the achilles heal of lifpo batteries. Disconnecting is good procedure when not used for long periods of time if there is a parasitic draw. They also won't drain when disconnected, so they can sit for a long period between charges (sometimes up to a year). They should also be stored inside during cold spells

 

I've been running mine since April. I've got a write up of the install and my experience with it in my build thread if you want to check that out.

I will also echo others by saying I bought the HD version because I called AG and it's what they recommended for the reasons already discussed here.

 

Sounds good! I will report back after 6 months and 12 months of ownership with my experience.

 

For what it's worth, this is my experience with the "Standard" ATX-30. My car is LS3 swapped, so 6.2L. My first ATX-30 died and couldn't be recovered after I left my tuning cable plugged in for a month or so while the car sat. My mistake, but the re-start feature did NOT kick in, and it allowed the battery to discharge to the point where it could not be saved. AG replaced the battery free of charge. The second battery has been working great for about 18 months. I drive the car usually at least once a week, but sometimes it sits for weeks at a time, or months during winter. I don't ever charge it except during long storage periods (1+ months). I will also flip the kill switch it I am working on the car or if I know it will be sitting for more than a couple weeks. No issues at all with this one. Not the most rapid cranking, but it has never failed to start.

I also have a friend with an LS1 powered e30. He's been running the standard ATX-30 for two and a half years, no problems whatsoever. He and I both have left dome lights on, or doors ajar and the re-start feature has protected the battery as advertised multiple times (barring that first apparently defective unit I had).

Sounds like the ATX-30 HD is the way to go. Those didn't exist when I bought mine, or else I would have probably gotten that one instead.

 

Sounds good, seems like ATX-30 is definitely good for those who plan to drive once a week. Longer storage durations the HD would be the go to. But I also feel ATX-30 is the prime choice for guys who track the cars or really want that lightweight benefits. Thanks for chiming in. I expect my experience to be as good as yours. Great feedback.

 

Frustrating to see you continue to post completely inaccurate info like this. Like I have stated repeatedly, it doesn't matter what you or I "think," it matters what the designers and manufacturer has stated - "The ATX30 is not designed for use in an FD."

For those of you that want to track your cars, take it from the manufacturer and install the HD version or the 51R series. Because of the nature of how the battery management system works in the regular ATX30, it may lead to an electrical system failure under stress, like what you will encounter while tracking.

 

It's frustrating that multiple owners are not having a bad experience after 18 months and you still have to make it seem bad. He even said his friend has not had problems.

 

It's frustrating that you continue to think anecdotal evidence supersedes what the manufacturer has directly stated. It's easy to say "Yeah the HD version is probably the way people should go, but I didn't know that and I have the regular ATX-30 already so I'm going to use it, and so far its been ok" and nobody would blink twice about it, stuff happens.

However you seem to be determined to double down on it and try to convince people that the ATX-30 is a good/prime or preferred choice despite the facts and that AG has the appropriate HD model available now. The HD is a whopping 2 pounds heavier than the ATX-30 so what makes it a "prime choice" here? I mean really?

Literally nobody has come here to argue that the regular ATX-30 is the way to go. Even the post above goes to mention he would have gotten the HD if it were available at the time he got the battery. He didn't have a choice at the time, anyone looking now does.

If your voltage drops to ~12.5 or below even momentarily the "restart" feature in this battery will trigger and put the battery into protection mode until you pop the hood and press the restart button. You will most likely lose all electrical power in this situation.

In addition to the statements from AG posted in this thread, it is clearly stated on AG's product page the makes/models that are known based on customer feedback to encounter this issue. The list is large enough that it clearly can be an issue when used in applications beyond what the ATX-30 was designed for.

 

Thanks for the sanity check. I truly am surprised that in the case of the OP, anecdotal evidence trumps actual facts and recommendations from AG. I guess this is the world in which we currently live.

 

Maybe I know it bothers you guys so much it works for me and some other people. So I push on that. . But seriously 18 months later and no issues why can't it be recommended? lol. My optima batteries sometimes fail after 1 year because I don't drive my cars enough.

 

It bothers me because you have AG right here saying there is the potential for a very serious safety issue if the voltage dips on the battery, even if the engine is running and the alternator is trying to provide power.

I understand traditional batteries sometimes go bad, and sometimes leave you stranded because they won't start your car. But one thing they don't have is an onboard power controller, much less one that is capable of breaking the charging circuit in your car.

Even with a totally bad battery (assuming it doesn't catch on fire, explode, or is literally cracked in half, don't take a road trip with a known defective battery) your car should function as long as your alternator is healthy.

That's the difference to me. I would hate for someone to lose power while operating their 7 and that be the cause of damage to them or their car because they saw someone say it was a really good choice and they wanted to save a hundred bucks. The HD model is right there and 100% cannot have this failure due to the restart logic, and the 51R has the capacity to allow the restart function to work safely.

I don't have a problem if you know this and decide to keep using the regular 30. That's your call, but I don't agree with suggesting there is any factual reason to use it in a FD over the HD version as AG recommends.

A car tuned for 93 octane might run fine with 87 for a long time, but it doesn't mean I would ever recommend someone to use 87 instead because its better. Maybe not the best example, but that's where I am coming from.

 

AG never once said its a hazard nor is it dangerous. They just recommended a deeper cycle battery for practical purposes.

 

The issue clearly stated is that the ATX30 does not have the amp hour capacity to guarantee that a FD (or any system with more electrical demands than what they designed the regular 30 for, which is small/medium power sports) will not dip the operating voltage of the battery below 12.5 volts, which would cause the built in restart feature to break the charging circuit. It is covered in many of the conversations David has shared, that AG has verified.

Restart cannot tell that the dip is a dip, and not a parasitic draw trying to drain the battery. It is taking a software action to protect the remaining energy in the battery.

Again, this battery comes with technical baggage that is impacted by its capacity that a regular AGM or lead acid battery does not. You can't just compare a normal deep cycle issue you would have with a traditional battery (ie, not being able to start the car because it is dead) to a Restart enabled AG battery.

If this happens you will probably lose power to your vehicle and you will not be able to restart your vehicle until you activate the batteries restart feature by either popping the hood and pressing the physical restart button, or if you have it, the wireless keyfob.

I consider the potential for sudden and unpredictable loss of power in any of my cars a hazard, especially if the same failure mode prevents me from restarting the vehicle until I interact with the battery.

 

Sounds like I could get away with getting the ATX30 battery for my AZ-1 and a Group-51R for my mildly modified FD then...but maybe I'll still play it safe and get the 51R since the AZ-1 is a car.

 

Reading this thread is like listening to an adult argue with a teenager and neither side is willing to give up on having the last word. The info is in the thread, I know who 'd listen to. Let it die.